Has anyone ever fitted a pod filter directly to the BBM inlet manifold?

me thinks . . .

Positives:
less air restriction
simplicity
much less stuff cluttering engine bay, better access to other parts
less chance of getting water in

Negatives:
sucking hot air
may not be enough room
induction noise
paper filters are better than cotton

I have seen one done. It was on an EF? I think, and he had a 45 degree bend from the throttle body so the pod faced forward along the rocker cover. Then on the bonnet he had the top of a hornet bonnet scoop mounted as a cold air intake. The pod sat half in the scoop when closed.

On another car, an AU, a guy is building a shaker type scoop with a traditional chrome round air cleaner, that is mounted to the throttel body, and will allow the scoop to 'shake'.

I also believe there are 'legal' questions regarding both of these ideas.

BenJ

The legal things I have heard of are, the intake needs to be completely sealed so that anything coming from the engine bay side cant get to the outside of the bonnet, mostly i think its so fluid leaks dont spray stuff on the windscreen... so the shaker type should have a gasket around the edge so it seals... but then you see hotrods getting around with no bonnet and exposed bits everywhere.. no idea how that works :/

another negative is the length of pipe your removing is good for low down torque...

shame to lose bottom end, . . . but maybe it would make it sort of okay to not switch the runners, for a simpler setup, on a standard type car that doesn't do much revving.

the induction noise could be annoying though.

Edit: But in most cases rather than do the above you would be better off using the original manifold and inlet. Killed my own idea.

cheers for the link and info. i printed out your parts list and ill go shopping in a weeks time to get it all...

how is that a negative????????? got to be joking im sure lol

I remember my first car, a 1978 honda accord, whose engine was so worn it didn't like sucking through an air filter anymore, so i ran it bereft. Sounded okay, i guess. Though that was only a 1.6litre, and the car was kind of noisy anyway!

If i ended up with a BA head in my EB i would consider using a pod directly on the inlet manifold. Not likely to happen though, as it seems i would want an AU block underneath so i could use a dizzy.

Sorry to chat in your thread Benj.

OK Back on Topic.

I drove from Western Sydney to Wagga Wagga and back today. I took my mate Paulmac down to pick up an ED Manual Futurer he bought.

The EL engine ran sweet and strong the whole way, and averaged 9.0L per 100ks for the 1000k trip. Very happy. In fact the EB was a pleasure to drive in all aspects.

But now I want a T5..........

BenJ

I can't wait to get my EL motor in now...

I was wondering on the benefit of the serpantine belt.. but after looking at the ED motor, and then the EL, I understand the one belt idea... I've had the main belt in the EA snap and it was a bugger to change... so the serp gear is all staying there...

Oh gosh BenJ... didn't you have enough trouble with the engine :p
IMO... zf 6 speed from a ba

Hi All, small update

I swapped some parts (cheers snap0964) a couple of weeks ago for an EL Ghia Tickford ECU and I finally got around to putting it in yesterday.

Did it make much difference? Bloody Oath it did. Mid range is much stronger and the top end is better too. Very happy chappy now. The new fuel and ignition maps seem to make the most of the intake and exhaust addons. And when I add a cam in the not to distant future, it will be very nice.

I took the car on the South Coast Cruise today and had a ball. I also was able to push the car a bit more. The Ghia ECU revs out further than the GLi one. 1st to 2nd now changes at 5400rpm where is used to change at 4800. The change itself is much firmer and gives a nice push as it goes into second.

So overall, another excellent mod, and a very happy modder.

Regards
BenJ

I would kill a tall blonde Swedish chick for a Ghia EL ECU....

More fun to let one [or more] attempt to kill you...slowly.
Paul

Or even two!!!

OK back on topic before I get distracted.

BenJ

Good Luck for 2moz man
hope it all goes smooth

Hi Again

So after the great cruise on Saturday, on Sunday I was out trying to locate the Oil Pressure Sender I need from an EF/EL Fairmont or XR6 to make the Oil Pressure Guage in the EF Fairmont Cluster work. I was at Repco in Blacktown at the MEGA Centre and as I was leaving my carpark, the High Pressure Power Steering hose blew. GREAT!!!!

So I popped the hood to check it out, put the hood back down, and moved the car back into the carspace. I went to pop the hood again and the BLOODY CABLE SNAPPED!!!!!!!!!

So, who here has had to open a bonnet after the cable snapped? NOT FUN.

I called a mate who picked me up, and took me back home where I grabbed the hose from my parts car (thank god) and my tool box.

So in the middle of the carpark, I had to take off the front bumper, then from behind the grill, remove the bolts holding the bonnet catch in. After bending in the bolt tabs and dismantling the receiver dryer bracket I was able to lift the bonnet with the catch still attatched up through the hole in the radiator support panel.

Changing the power steering hose was the easy part.

Anyway, put it all together again, held the bonnet shut with a bungee cord and drove home.

The next day I had to replace the catch and as I had to dismantle half the front anyway I decided to swap out the A/C condensor as it was in pretty bad shape.

Condensor


Naked Front..... of car


I also replaced the Bonnet release cable so all is back to normal now. :nana:

Hopefully more fun mods to come soon.

BenJ

Aircon

I'm going to get reamed when it comes time to fix what the git broke.

Hello Again,

Now one of the stated negatives of a BBM conversion or EL Engine install is that you can't get the Cruise Control to work. Following my EL engine install I got around this by cutting and shutting two cables together. I used the EL cable attached to the throttle body, and the EB cable from the actuator servo, cut them both in half and joined them together.

This photo should give you an idea of what I mean.


And a close up of the bodginess - Hey, it worked!!!!


With the above mod (EL Dash and Console) in mind, I realised that the EB Cruise Control Module would no longer fit under the centre console.

For those that don't know, the EB Cruise Control is a complicated mess of wires, vacuum hoses and components. There are three separate devices. The Cruise module is under the console, the vacuum pump is located in the engine bay behind the washer bottle on the left hand side and connects via vacuum hose to the actuator servo on the right hand side. There are vacuum hoses under the dash connected to the brake (and clutch) pedal as well as wires. There are many things to check if it decides not to work. All in all, a real pain.

Seeing as I had the EL Engine and ECU I thought that I could use the EL Cruise Control. Ford got their act together and in the EF/EL the Cruise Control system is one device, and it is all electronic. A side benefit for me is that my bodgy cable join would be gone. I studied the schematics for both systems and identified that essentially both systems are stand alone. All they need is the relevant inputs and when connected to a throttle body it should work.

The main difference is that the EL in addition to the Brake Light switch, uses the Brake Pressure Switch, to cancel cruise. This is attached to the Brake Master Cylinder, and is not able to be fitted to the EB Master Cylinder. It is also not feasible to update the EB to an EF/EL Master Cylinder as the brake lines are routed differently.

It is however a simple matter of connecting 12V+ Ign to the Brake Pressure Switch wire to bypass it.

So, I got to work. I acquired the EL Cruise module and Cable as well as the Plug and a length of loom. I then made up a loom using wiring stripped from my spare parts car. I used a plug on the end that is located behind the Instrument Cluster to allow easy access to the wiring loom and to be easy to unplug for when the dash conversion happens. After modifying my custom cruise switches with different resistors, I unplugged the EB Cruise module, and after connecting the necessary wires, went for a test drive.

It works, and very well to. I have driven up to the Central Coast and back from Sydney and it performed like it should.

I am not sure if you need to have the EF/EL instrument cluster in, but I will say that the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) wire out is connected to the Cruise Module. If you were to try this with the EB Cluster, you would have to test if the normal VSS in wire will work.

A couple of pics.





Well I hope you found this interesting.

BenJ

And the 2008 Fordmods Macgyver award goes to (drumroll)

"BenJ"

Yeah (and the crowd goes wild)



Seriously though, great work old son!