You would need to get it machined up, and if i was making it i would machine the spiggot that goes into the recess in the diff on one side and in turn machine a recess that will fit the spiggot on the driveshaft mounting plate, drill the holes on a mill using a digital readout. so if it was done that way there would be no problems with it being out of balance. and i would not make it out of alloy, too soft. I would make it out of high tensile steel or stainless.

Josh

[Edit] I realise this would not be the cheapest way out of it, but it depends witch way you want to go about it. In my opinion this would be the best way out of it. Unless you feel you want to shorten your drive shaft, witch will need balancing after wards.

Right, i think i have sorted it, i measured it all up today, and with the measurements the wrecker gave me, it is the correct length (funny that, being the gearbox is out of the same year of car).

The shaft he has (auto yoke, 2cm longer in the tip) was measured at 1650mm, the shaft i have measured in at 1670mm with T5 yoke (2cm shorter in the tip) So once i put the T5 yoke onto the NU shaft, wa lah! it is the correct length, because as you can see from the pics, it is only too long by about 2-3cm. So i'm going with that plan now, if it turns to s**t, i will go back to plan A and grab Ash's one and build a plate.


Pulled most of the old intake off today ready for the explorer (skipped Uni to make the most of the sunlight! )

Now, how do you get the injector plugs off and how do you get the fuel lines apart?

Note to self, do not undo passengers side coolent sensor without draining fluid first, makes a hell of a mess.

Last edited by XFWAGON on Sun Nov 07, 2010 1:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Got my Driveshaft in the mail today, Fat bastard too, quite a bit chunkier than the DC version, but it certainly is the goods, i tested it with the auto yoke on it, went into the Gearbox fine, but was still a fraction too long.

Last edited by XFWAGON on Fri Apr 24, 2015 9:08 am, edited 1 time in total.

good to see you have worked it out.

At the very least I would replace the rotor button and cap off you distributor.

Josh

Bummer.....big bummer. Doesnt fit........ it is still a fraction out, i mean literally a fraction, as in about 3mm. i could pry it up onto the diff, but then i think it would sit too hard against the box. Oh well, shortening time.

Pulled the rest of the intake off today seeing we had some sunshine.

Last edited by XFWAGON on Sat Mar 31, 2012 10:46 am, edited 1 time in total.

if your only going to replace it, whats the harm in trying to clean in up abit?

Thought of one step better, i have the AU sensor sitting in my intake tube, So i'm trying to find the plug that goes into it and i'll just wire it up to that.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 787120.htm ?

Fiend ya crazy bugger, thats all the s**t i just took off lol (not mine but same thing)

Just what are you putting on? All the AU stuff?

Hey - It took me ages to find out why your thread wasn't working from your link on signature - thought it was Fordmods taking a little holiday again, but turns out the link in your siggy doesn't work.

Try this link viewtopic.php?f=53&t=77966&start=40 instead. It goes straight to this page (note the START=40 at the end) so you could change it to start=1 or what have you........

You should show us all some photos of your engine bay and everything...!

Yeah i was wondering that myself, will change that very soon....if i remember...
I am putting the explorer intake on, getting there, have a whole month off from uni soon will finally get the ol girl up and running again! Will also do some pictures too, just prepping for exams at mo so not much time. Had two today, one tomorrow and final on Monday, Bastard things, take up too much time i should be spending on the LTD

Exams are important - Means, unlike me, you'll have more money for LTD in future...

how did i miss this thread??? LWB FTW

Your driveshaft needs about 20mm of for/aft movement in the slip yoke so that when the suspension works up and down through an arc and the diff housing rotates (it does) on the bushings the drivetrain doesn't go solid at any point and stress (then break) things. That is the purpose of the slip yoke, to absorb these changes in drivetrain length. Don't just try and force it in there if there isn't enough room. Even if it's "only" a couple of mm's. There is meant to be about 20mm of "slop", definately not supposed to be an over-tight fit. And even talking about fitting dodgy things like spacers to driveshafts sounds really scary. In any situation where you aren't going to do a job the right way, ask yourself the following

- How much have you spent on the whole project to date (this is what you are risking)
- What could happen if the dodgy bit failed (in this case it may be catastrophic)
- What would this cost to fix (minimum new driveshaft, maximum is nothing because you're dead)

If the answer to the last question is more than the cost of doing it properly, then bite the bullet and do it properly. You also get piece of mind, knowing it's not going to cause problems.

These 3 questions have been very useful in helping me modify cars (and other stuff) over the past 25 years. Sometimes it confirms that it's OK to cut corners, other times it's a good reality check that you later look back on wonder "What on Earth was I thinking when I was going to do that"

My advice is that you shorten and balance your old driveshaft. Up here in Hamilton it only costs about $150.

cheers

Yeah cheers man, i was so sure the NU shaft was gonna bolt up but when it didn't i was gutted, however, mods must go on! Finished exams today, weather is typical, s**t, cold and raining, so couldn't really do much, except scrape the last of the gasket off the intake and put the injectors in. So spent the afternoon with a razor blade and my intake. Heres some pic's of what it's like at the moment. My new plan for the floor is, dynamat it underneath, i have a cutout from an ED trans tunnel which i will overlay over the big hole that i cut yesterday and use dynamat to hold that in place too, so not only am i holding everything solidly in place, it's also cutting out the noise! excellent!

Also i made an adapter for my AU IAT sensor, now i just need someone to tell me what plug is + and what is -

And yes Huggie, how did you miss this thread? LWB FTW mate!

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Last edited by XFWAGON on Sat May 21, 2011 6:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.