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Adding remote car start alarm to an ef???????? 

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 7:41 am 
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My alarm will kill the remote start if...

- the doors a opened (unlikely because the remote start doesn't unlock the doors)
- the brake pedal is touched
- a configurable timer is reached (so your don't forget about your car)

And if you do unlock the doors and get in, you have to insert the key ignition key and turn it to on to disable the other safeguards on the alarm.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 7:58 am 
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seton005 wrote:
.....And dont get me wrong you make a good point but lets face it, most people who have it fitted (and I know a couple of them) have it fitted for pure wank value considering the car will never see any temps below 5 degrees.


Guess im a lucky one, it Snows where i live, theres nothing like a cold snowy morning to make you appreciate it's value.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 1:35 pm 
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pyroay wrote:
seton005 wrote:
.....And dont get me wrong you make a good point but lets face it, most people who have it fitted (and I know a couple of them) have it fitted for pure wank value considering the car will never see any temps below 5 degrees.


Guess im a lucky one, it Snows where i live, theres nothing like a cold snowy morning to make you appreciate it's value.


There is the unlucky reverse side too, +40c temps, who would prefer to get into a nice cool car instead of a +60c hot one.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 6:03 pm 
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Damage wrote:
pyroay wrote:
seton005 wrote:
.....And dont get me wrong you make a good point but lets face it, most people who have it fitted (and I know a couple of them) have it fitted for pure wank value considering the car will never see any temps below 5 degrees.


Guess im a lucky one, it Snows where i live, theres nothing like a cold snowy morning to make you appreciate it's value.


There is the unlucky reverse side too, +40c temps, who would prefer to get into a nice cool car instead of a +60c hot one.


That's what I want :)

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 8:23 pm 
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ok... according to the ED Workshop manaul the Electronic Lock Assembly (the smartlock bit of the barrel) has the following inputs/outputs.

* Ground - Black Wire
* Power Supply - Brown-Green
* Clock - Blue - Orange
* Data Input/Output - Green -Violet
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Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 9:42 pm 
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do you know if there's any kind of sensor in there that uses the data input/output wire? also do you know what the clock does...?


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Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 11:01 pm 
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The clock is used to syncronise the data signal.

ie. so when a clock line goes high* it's the right time to read a bit from the data line. This prevents the BEM reading the signal bit while it is in the middle of changing.


*maybe low, I'm unsure

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 8:59 pm 
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xpression wrote:
ok... according to the ED Workshop manaul the Electronic Lock Assembly (the smartlock bit of the barrel) has the following inputs/outputs.

* Ground - Black Wire
* Power Supply - Brown-Green
* Clock - Blue - Orange
* Data Input/Output - Green -Violet


Got mine today:

Black
Brown
Blue/White
Green/Red

Not sure if's an EF or EL lock.

Just got to figure out how to open it up, get out the circuitry.

edit:
Image
Need to get that brass bit off.

 

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1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow - 97.5rwkw
2006 BF GT-P in Ego, mods. 293rwkw - 12.427@109 - 0-1000m 24.838@221

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Posted: Sun Feb 27, 2005 1:52 pm 
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I just tried to see if I could get the new lock working befor eI go pulling it apart...

I followed this: (http://www.fordmods.com/phpBB2/documents.php?doc=49)

Quote:
The immobilised state is indicated by the Smartlock warning jewel (LED) as a rapid flash rate.
The system enters the immobilised state if Smartlock receives at least two incorrect codes when the ignition switch is turned to On.
When the car is in the immobilised state, you cannot start the engine, as the BEM has disabled both the starter motor, and the EEC-V system.
If the cause of the immobilisation is a corruption of the codes during transfer, you should be able to start the car on the second attempt.
Note : The remote keypads will still operate on an immobilised car, however an immobilised car will not display the immobilised flash with the ignition off, and will display the armed code as normal.
If the cause is an unauthorised attempt to start the car, i.e. by hot wiring, the car will remain unstartable. However to prevent a vehicle from being completely immobilised, (Eg. due to a damaged electronic lock assembly data), you can start the car by using the method below.
The following method must be used if the BEM, or the electronic module has been replaced, so as the new Codes from the electronic Ignition Switch are RE-LEARNT.

1. Turn all accessories off.
2. Turn the ignition to the On position.
The Smartlock warning Jewel (LED) will flash any error codes, then finally the immobilised code.
3. Leave the car for 30 Minutes.
4. After 30 Minutes, the BEM will attempt to relearn the electronic lock assembly data.
5. If the learning procedure is successful, the warning jewel (LED) will then stop flashing and the door locks will change state twice. You can now start the car, and operate it as normal.
6. If the learning procedure is unsuccessful, the warning jewel (LED) will stop flashing and stay on, and you can start the engine.



After 45-mins sitting in the car on a 28°C day in direct sun, I gave up. Plugged my original lock back in, and it started as normal. *grrr* did I not wait long enough.

edit: damn, my gregory's manual says 30-60 minutes. Might have to wait for a cooler day.

 

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1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow - 97.5rwkw
2006 BF GT-P in Ego, mods. 293rwkw - 12.427@109 - 0-1000m 24.838@221

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Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2005 11:38 am 
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Okay, have some more info .. dunno if it helps or not, its from the EF/EL service manual .


switch to the ingnition and wait until the smartlock light lamp stops flashing, it can take anywhere from 30-60mins after the locks cycle, somewhere between 30-60mins, you only have 30sec's to start the car with the new barrel and key . if you don't do it in that 30secs, you have to repeat the whole procedure again!
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Posted: Sat Mar 19, 2005 9:34 pm 
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Got it working :D

Trained the BEM to recognise the new lock - took 1 hour, glad it wasn't so damn hot this time around - used the time to give the inside a very good cleaning.

Now I've got the new lock assembly hidden behind the dash with the key in and in the on position (II). Not that I'm to worried, as a thief would have to: find it, connect up the ignition switch loom, and then bypass the alarm.

Push the start button on the remote, and it comes to life, only problem now is (I think I'll have to RTFM) when I pus the unlock button, the engines dies and the doors unlock, might have to use one of the other buttons to get in once the remote start is active. Also when arriving, you remove the key, but the engine doesn't stop, til you're out and arm the alarm, annoying - but I can say to the ricers I got a ful sik turbo timer.

So go out and buy a spare lock assembly. Got mine for $45 from Fern Tree Gully Salvage (sponsor).

 

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1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow - 97.5rwkw
2006 BF GT-P in Ego, mods. 293rwkw - 12.427@109 - 0-1000m 24.838@221

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Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2005 12:00 pm 
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so any progres on fitting remote start to an ef???

 

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