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EF won't start, what else can I check? 

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 11:04 am 
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Did some reading of the ford manual and it appears that a dead Crank angle sensor will cause the same effect.
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Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 11:10 am 
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muzza wrote:
Did some reading of the ford manual and it appears that a dead Crank angle sensor will cause the same effect.


this is true. the wires to my crank angle sensor were severed one day (belt slipped) and the car displayed the same symptoms.

I thought it was the coils. Got no usefull info out of the ECU (sait 111 - all good, lol). took a bit of investigative work to find out it was this sensor

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 12:45 pm 
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Does the Smartlock Jewel (Light) onthe dash flash while the engine is cranking?
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Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 8:12 pm 
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Jordan, the Smart lock is working like it should, that is not the problem I don't think....
Muzza, I checked the coil connector, and when I switch the key to ON or if I crank it, I get 11-12 Volts present from all 3 wires, so it is working I guess....

I just cant believe every thing I check seems to be fine, it is running me to the ground, that I can't find the problem????, I just now, have no way any time soon going to beable to afford to get it towed to an auto electrician......so I would love to fine some thing wrong that I may beable to replace, or at least find the problem, so that way if I do get it to a auto electrician, I can tell them, and shave off several hours of labour for them trying to find the problem.

thank you evey one, any more ideas you can think of???
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Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 9:40 pm 
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it doesnt matter about smart lock the car will still start but splutter then about 2 mins latter it will dye check feul pump

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 10:04 pm 
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have you done the old 'belt the dash just at you left knee? to get the old'e BEM working?

symptoms different, but it MAY work.

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 10:57 pm 
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Haha, funny you should say that, I was told by some guy at Ford to do that too, which comming from a Ford rep I thought was a bit unprofessional,
but I don't know where abouts the BEM realy is......not to mention "Body Electrics Module" right.....all my body electrics work fine, i.e smart lock, dash instruments, lights, aircon and such, so it suggests my BEM is fine.

However my coil pack was what I thought was the problem, but I tested it and it tested ok and it is recieving power, however all though it seems to work when tested by a multimeter, is it possible that it may open circuit under load when I crank the car?.......so may be it is the coil pack stuffed......
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Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 11:16 pm 
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A dead crank angle sensor will give no spark. A failing one will give spark some of the time. This is the one piece that tells the ECU when to spark, once everything else (ie smartlock) says it is ok to start.

They can fail without throwing an ECU code as well. About $50 brand new.

cheers
Scott

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 11:24 pm 
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Where is that, how can I test it and/or remove it from my car?

Thanks....
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Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 2:49 pm 
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Crank Angle sensor is very front of engine just above the main pulley. Held on with 2 x 7mm bolts. Remove the plastic shroud that covers the fan belt and look down. Pull it out (it can be tricky as one of the bolt holes (passenger side) has a protrusion to help align it.

Once out clean it up and test to see if the resistance is between 300-400 Ohms. If not replace.

cheers
Scott

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 9:13 pm 
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I checked it, it was fine, showed 355 Ohms, I am just stuffed even more to as what the problem is, I even removed the ECU and tryed to start just to see what it would do, and it did crank and not fire, so it was as if the car did not even know ECU was not there.

so i've checked coils, relays, fuses, battery, various engine sensors, crank sensors, with no luck every thing seems to be good.......

What to look for next??.

thank you.....
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Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 9:30 pm 
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Back probe the ECU at terminals 26, 52 and 78 and see if you have battery volts with ignition on and 1-2V AC when running. This is the coil trigger from the ECU. It can be a bit tricky back probing. I used a needle with some difficulty getting a strong connection.

If you get no volts hen the ECU is not being told that the ignition is on, or the ECU is stuffed.

cheers
Scott

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 1:23 am 
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Where is the terninals 26,52,78? how do I get to them?
I will try that and if there is no power what does that mean? my ECU is stuffed or what???

thanks.....Aaron..;
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Posted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 2:19 pm 
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Pull out the ps kickpanel under the dash. It has two press in plastic bolt thingies. ECU is sitting there nice and pretty. Held in with a metal strap by one screw which also has an ECU ground wire. Undo screw and remove ECU, then redo the screw to hold the ground wire in. Pull off the black plastic cap to get access to the ECU wires.

The wires are numbered the first and last on each line. 1-26, 27-.....etc.

Get a pin or needle and push in down along the wire you want. Test with multimeter. You may need to wiggle the pin to get it to touch properly.

If you get zero volts or only 8V or something like that then the ECU is not triggering the Coils. Each pin fires two cylinders.

cheers
Scott

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 11:11 pm 
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Ride: 95 EF XR8 & a 09 FG GT

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I simply got a new ECU because an auto electrician told me it was stuffed, but my ECU says "9DBF" on it, the new one says "9DBE" on it and the new one does not work?, is it because the ECU numbers are different?? the new ECU "9DBE" come from a car exactly like my car but only a few months older???? Does the new ECU need to be programed into my car? I am still having the same problem with the car not fireing????

any help??
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