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 Post subject: help diag comp
Posted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 4:27 pm 
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does anyone know if ford dealerships have diagnostic computers that plug into EL's to find out what is wrong with them? my EL keeps melting catalatic converters and it's a expensive habbit so i want her to kick it

 

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Posted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 4:52 pm 
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Ford dealerships will have the computer to plug into it, but I doubt they'd find anything. They couldn't even tell me why mine would just cut out intermittantly with smartlock coming on!

could the exhaust be slightly blocked further down, causing the heat and gases to build up near the cat?

 

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Posted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 5:03 pm 
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nope exhaust is all clear car has done it 4 times and complete exhaust system has been replaced since everytime it has done it i have had optimax in the car this time i had injector cleaner

 

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Posted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 5:52 pm 
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Fords diagnostics computer will find the majority of faults, but it can't find anything. The computer will test things like sensor ranges and shorts etc so in your case I would imagine they will find a few O2 sensor / AFR faults, which will narrow down the problem but still won't give a 100% acuurate answer or solution. You can also run the fault codes yourself, there is a how-to in the tech docs section.
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Posted: Sat Mar 25, 2006 7:50 pm 
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emptied cat out and went for a drive car s**t itself again so it went on a truck to ford first time my car has gone to a ford dealership since i got it and only cause i work at one lol

 

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Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 12:50 am 
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that sounds weird, does it melt the cat's internals, which then clogs it up?
i'd be replacing the O2 sensor, throwing it on a dyno and checking air/fuel ratios.
is it running warmer than usual, that MAY cause it, bit of a long shot though.

 

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Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 5:51 pm 
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melts the cat internals solid im thinking it is a o2 sensor will be hooked up tomorrow to the ford puter will see how that goes

 

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Posted: Mon Mar 27, 2006 7:17 pm 
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they found nothing said it didn't miss a beat all day but are suspecting it to be the ignition module in the dizzy or the fual pump they gonna look again tomorrow hopefully

 

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Posted: Mon Mar 27, 2006 7:28 pm 
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hmm.. sounds like quality ford diagnosis.
a fix (although not the better option) is to bash out the internals.

 

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Posted: Mon Mar 27, 2006 7:34 pm 
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cat has been bashed out but still cuttin out which is why they think it is dizzy or fuel pump

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 29, 2006 10:46 pm 
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If its melting the cat, it wouldn't be fuel, there's nothing to burn the cat with. Id say your ingition is cutting out. If you have an EL you would have a TFI module.. these things can be strange. They are mounted onto the dizzy using thermal paste, sometimes they overheat and do things like that (stop working), also your coil (although they normally show signs of going like missing down low and stuff), or perhaps your ECU relay.. My ecu relay was cutting out aswell, my car was stranded in Bathurst for 2 days straight while I pulled the dizzy out on the side of the road, and changed the coil, tfi, etc... ended up been the relay.

Id be checking the above... Diagnostics on ECU don't normally find intermittent problems like that.


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Posted: Thu Mar 30, 2006 5:59 pm 
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they replaced my dizzy where is the relay located?

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 30, 2006 6:45 pm 
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it runs now but is hard to start sometimes and also has a stutter sometimes wondering do you think could be a injector problem? or still ignition considering i have a new dizzy and ciol not to mention new dizzy cap/rotor new leads and the plugs aren't that old

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 30, 2006 9:03 pm 
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don't know what you mean by stutter.. what kind of stutter? and where abouts in the rev range.

As for the hard to start, as in it keeps trying to start by turning over and over?, or it turns over but as if its resisting?

if its resisting, or kicking back on itself, the timing is too advanced.

If it just keeps cranking, but no start then id be more leaning towards fuel if it revs fine after it starts?

In terms of fuel, fuel pump or fuel pump relay. These are easy to check luckily.

For the fuel pump, ground (in your diagnostic plug) the top very right pin.. or the first one from the right on top.

To ground, jump it to a nearby ground, or use the ground in the diagnostic connector. This is the bottom very left pin. So connect those two basically.

With the ignition on (because the fuel pump relay runs of the ECU relay which is switched when you turn your key onto ON), connect those two pins, and this should trip your fuel pump relay and the fuel pump should start making a whirling noise from your boot, if you can't hear that, then there should be a wooshing noise in your fuel rail near the fuel pressure regulator.

Listen to the whirling or wooshing, if it sounds intermittent, or cuts in and out, then you know something is wrong there.

After that, to rule out the fuel pump relay (ECU and fuel pump relay are under the coolant bottle) you should short the relay out manually, and see if it fixes the problem.

To do that, you take your overflow coolant bottle off, and move to the side, under there you will see a bunch of relays and relay holders screwed into the wall just behind the battery.
You are searching for a green relay with a metal top, and it doesn't look like it has a base, it screws onto the wall from the top.. (a hole on top of the relay itself.)
The one you need (there will be two [maybe 3] of the same looking relays as described above) has got 4 wires, two thin, and two thick.
thin : Red, Brown with green stripe
thick: Black with yellow stripe, and Orange with blue stripe.

There are two ways to approach this... you either take the relay out, and bridge them, or you can do it from underneath (warning:they are a bastard to pull off the base, or were for me anyway).
Either way, get a piece of wire (preferable thickish, same guage as the ones there) and connect the Black with yellow stripe wire with the orange with blue stripe wire.
As you do this, you will notice that the fuel pump turns on. Take it for a drive, and see if it fixes your problem (starting and stuttering).
If you wanna rule out the ECU relay (controlling the ignition) then do the relay that looks the same.
The wires on that should be
thin: Red with green stripe, and black with green stripe
thick: Red and Red I think...

Join the Red and red (or the two thick ones) together as above, now this turns your ecu on, and is the equivalent to you putting the key onto IGN or ON.

take it for a drive, or start it or whatever.. if problem goes away, replace those relays.
If not.. well post here, and perhaps you can describe the symptoms a bit better?

Pitty your not in ACT anymore, Im going out that way soon, could of had a look.


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Posted: Thu Mar 30, 2006 9:21 pm 
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Warlock wrote:
they replaced my dizzy where is the relay located?
I assume you mean the ECU relay - Under the coolant bottle - it's closest to the engine normally, but check for a brown connector. Fuel pump relay has a green connector.

As mentioned above, they can be both tested, but also a visual just in case the coolant bottle has been leaking on them.

 

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