Has any of you wizards in the brains trust any ideas about the following:
Falcon XH Ute - 1998
Purchased 6 months ago

Fuel consumption town/motorway mixed.... 17-18l/100 km

Have had the vehicle to various X-SPURTS, the following has been done and CHARGED for

Electronic scan & tune up
replace oxy sensor
replace temp sensor
replace thermostat (twice) now with gen Ford unit
reset timing? after 1st tune up
remove fuel tank & pressure test for leaks
replace fuel filter (twice)
disconnect battery and reset EFi computer
check exhaust for leaks
check earths and add earth to EFi box

This problem is driving me crazy and the consumption driving me broke. The ute is driven sedately(I am scared to put the foot down-don't know if I will make the next Servo.

Only thing I find as possibly strange is that the radiator fans come on at approx 65-70 degrees. Thermo opens at 91 degrees and the temp guage hovers between the A & L of 'normal' markings on temp guage.

Any suggestions appreciated, or email stady (at) yahoo.com

Last edited by stady on Tue Jun 28, 2005 5:35 am, edited 1 time in total.

MAP sensor is a BIG one. Only $20 to get one or 2 from ur local wrecker to test with. Also check for vacuum leaks.. incorrect manifold pressure readings will make her dump fuel.

I'd love to know about this electronic tune up. Theres nothing to 'tune' on EFI cars other than base timing for those cars still equipped with a distributor

Sorry-missed that bit, map sensor and vac checked. I still feel that the fans are kicking in too soon and running the motor too cool. Any idea what temp they should kick in at?

Doesnt really matter if or when the fans come on... its up to the thermostat to control the coolant temp.

On my EB V8 i've done a thermo fan conversion and i'm running one of the fans on high speed permanently.. No issues with running too cool (or hot). Sits right where its supposed to be.

You should have a look in our Technical Documents for EEC-V diagnostics. Pull the codes out yourself and see what your ECU has to say for itself.

interesting. how do you go aboy testing the MAP sensor

Running at 80-86c. Fans kick in at 65-70c. All sensors checked, fuel pressure checked, Can the ECU be re-programmed or flashed?

take the vehicle to someone with elctrajet and a chassis dyno in ur area


cya FPV_GTp

I would recommend getting an AFR meter from jaycar. Great little units, cos basically nothing, and let you know where your car is using fuel. I had a very similar problem, then a muffler exploded in the burnout competition. Turned out to be a blocked exhaust.. (im assuming from the way it turned cylinderical after it was oval lol).


Cheers and good luck. I feel your pain.

ps - have you checked compression? also timing chain guides? oil levels?

hi again

lol i failed to mention http://techedge.com.au/ have a great airfuel ratio meter worth a look


a blocked muffler you should be able to pick it up by using a vacuum gauga

plug a vacuum gauge direct to intake manifold vacumm and take the car foe a drive and go WOT ( wide open throttle ) and see what manifold vacumm ur are pulling if there is a restriction u will be pulling negative pressure


WOT half throttle Idle

0 ----------------I-------------------I------------------I---------------- 21inHg
3/4 1/4


if there is a restriction you will be pulling manifold vacuum where it should other wise go to 0 ( zero ) on the gauge when you go wide open throttle

so if you think its a exhaust blockage you should be able to pick it up

another way is to tap into the exhaust system from front to rear in several pionts and again using a fuel/vacumm gauge RYCO make a few good units you should be able to measure exhaust back pressure and find out if you have a restriction in the system between the catalytic convertor to the middle muffler to the rear muffler.

watch your speed again i recommend u take it to a dyno shop speeding tickets are not cheap and not to mention road dangers have fun

cya FPV_GTp

i would go with the dyno option they have all the equipment needed to test and cost about $70 an hour, dont go for the cheap jaycar kit as the instructions will tell you they need to be calibrated alongside the sort of equipment that is used on a dyno......

one other small thing, fords do use more fuel than others, is it actually using that much or is that just what the trip computer reads, do you find yourself sitting on 100k's on the freeway and overtaking everyone??? if so your speedo is probably out and showing up less k's than you actually doing, another thing that can be checked on a dyno.

lol, you really like dyno's. The jaycar kits don't need to be callibrated on a dyno... who told you that?

They are not accurate devices they are just a device aimed at giving you an insight into what the brains of your car are seeing. Dyno (as you stated $70 an hour) vs a little kit which was $14 or $17 or something and 5 mins to build. Ive got one, and they are awesome little things, explained alot for me.


Cheers

the one i payed about $20 for says in the instructions that they need to be calibrated, that is why i havnt used it, the ones that cost about $80 dont need to be calibrated, i just brought a REAL a/f meter instead,

And since a dyno use's professional equipment, made by professionals for professionals and can give a print out of many different things that affect how a car runs and pointers to possible problems why wouldnt you use a dyno for something like this when there has been so many things changed and there is now a need to go deeper into the problem.

I wasn't saying dyno's were bad, just saying that there's nothing wrong with the jayvar AFR meters as I am very happy with mine, thats all.


Cheers

well the cheap little kit i brought from jaycar said in the instructions that you need to calibrate it for it to be accurate, i know the $80 kits you dont need to and the autometer gauge i have dosnt need to either.