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its still happening. only worse this time 

 

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Posted: Fri Feb 16, 2007 12:09 am 
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Are you sure you want to be just swapping looms etc BEFORE actually diagnosing the problem? What happens if you swap it over, and the problem is still there?

Locate the problem, or at least narrow it down a little. If its small parts like coil, lights etc, then swapping is easy and a fast way to diagnose, but a whole loom??? You might just introduce more problems. You might disturb the original problem and stop it temporarily, then have it come back a month later.

 

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Posted: Fri Feb 16, 2007 12:20 am 
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as i said i wont be swapping looms. ill just buy a new car.

i have pretty much tracked it down to the rear lights.

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 6:56 pm 
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i have tracked the problem down to the highbeam circuit. im not exactly sure where about it is. i unplugged ALL lights and turned the lights on and it cut out. i then removed the relay (see pic) and re-tested and nothing stopped which was a good sign. i then replaced the rear lights and tested. still working i pluged the headlights in but left the relay off. and still working so now i have low beams parkers just no high beam. as soon as i put the relay back in no matter whan one i turn on it shorts.

so at the moment i have it sitting there with no relay but obviously i cant leave it like that.

i now need to chase down a manual for it. mine went missing

Image
Image
Image


in this pic you can see the trailor plug which is what i thorght it was first up.

Image

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 7:22 pm 
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Mate, this is excellent news, and very good progress.

Just need to clarify a few things - (assuming its the High beam relay you are removing here, and that turning on the high beams produces the fault) :-

1) When you plug the high beam relay back in, does it blow regardless of whether the high beam switch is on or off?

2) If you leave the high beam switch Off with the relay removed, does bridging pin 87 and 30 (the pins opposite and rotated 90 degrees to each other) cause the fault?

The results from this should tell you if you have a power or control circuit fault.

I have the EF exterior light circuit here. If you want it, just PM me - it's likely to be slightly different, but should give you a rough layout of how the circuit works and where to look next.

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 8:15 pm 
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its option 1 i think. having the relay in shorts it no matter what i switch on. i will have to sus it out tomorrow.

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 8:29 pm 
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My Ellery's schematic shows that the high and low beam relays are given their 12V+ supply through a circuit breaker, but I don't know where that circuit breaker is located.

Do the high beams continue to work after you get the fault, or do they stay off for a while until your car is able to be started again?

I'm thinking your power loss may have something to do with the circuit breaker (if its a self resetting type).

I have a theory about the blowing relays too. If you put a brand new relay in, and everything goes ok till you flick the high beams, your positive wire out from the high beam relay may be shorted to ground. This would cause the relay to arc closed, and then cause the fault to occur every time the relay was plugged in regardless of the switch position from then on.

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 8:31 pm 
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Put in a new relay, and run an extra earth wire, from the battery to the body. I have pics here of mine. The one on the LHS is yellow in colour and the RHS one is green in colour.

 

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 12:22 am 
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EBGizmo wrote:
My Ellery's schematic shows that the high and low beam relays are given their 12V+ supply through a circuit breaker, but I don't know where that circuit breaker is located.

Do the high beams continue to work after you get the fault, or do they stay off for a while until your car is able to be started again?

I'm thinking your power loss may have something to do with the circuit breaker (if its a self resetting type).

I have a theory about the blowing relays too. If you put a brand new relay in, and everything goes ok till you flick the high beams, your positive wire out from the high beam relay may be shorted to ground. This would cause the relay to arc closed, and then cause the fault to occur every time the relay was plugged in regardless of the switch position from then on.


basically what happens is when i put the relay in i turn any light on (including brake) and it trips. but when the relay is removed i can use all lights obviously except high beams. it does have a self resetting one as it takes anywhere from 20 seconds to 10 minutes to reset.

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 1:04 am 
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check the earth points!

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 9:56 pm 
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ok so i attached a new earth... and still keep killing the battery.

i checked and cleaned all the earth straps and terminals... still nothing.

at one last attempt today i removed the battery and checked the altinator wire... dirty but tight. i ran my hand up the wire to find a lump... i look down to see a lump of melted electrical trape and alot of corrosion... BINGO

i removed the tape to see where antony from ALTED performance had done the attachment from 4 wires into one. i grabed the soliering iron and soldiered another 4 guage wire to it and ran it to the battery

turned the car one and switched the lights on with my fingers crossed... it kept running so i ran to the front to see one headlight on... :D
i know its not all of them but i bought the XR lights in unknown condition but i have a new set of globes coming on friday. so on friday ill know for sure if its solved the issue.


also i need to raise my idle RPM as it currently sits just under 500 rpm and when the lights are on the lights go dull then bright as it idle bounces.


on the shopping list now is a new battery as i think it killed a cell.

altho it will now be a while before its all done as i lost my job yesterday so im on very small budget.

 

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Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 8:04 am 
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would make sense, dead battery, voltage drop across the battery feed to ur alt, as soon as u turn on a load to the battery it takes away enough voltage to turn the ecu into sleepy time mode :P
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Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 10:34 am 
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it wasnt just the computer in sleep mode... the little red light on the stereo would stop also... it drained the battery completely.

im also swapping the altinator as its showing up at just over 10 volts and wont move from there. also a battery will be coming.

 

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