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O2 Sensor 

 

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 Post subject: O2 Sensor
Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 2:17 am 
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Hi, I have an Eb2 Fairmont I6. I is chewing fuel at a huge rate. The trip comp is averaging 17.4 L per 100Ks. For a 6 this is pretty bad. It used to return about 14.5. I have replaced the O2 sensor as I know that this can cause poor economy but it made no difference. It doesn't seem to go into closed loop mode. I used a test meter on the sensor and it just maintained a constant 5.2V. The manual says it should start osilating between .5v and 8v after 5 mins but it never does it. I smells really rich when its idling at operating temp. It smells like it is still on cold mixture. I havn't tested the temp sensor properly but I pulled the plug off when it was idling ind the RPM rose to about 1200rpm so it is doing something I guess??? Why won't it go into closed loop mode???

 

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Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 5:06 am 
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I don't know about he EB's but as they have an O2 sensor, they almost always have an ECU which, if like that on the EF, can be made to output fault codes if placed into self diagnostics mode.

For EF's there is a document which described the ECC-V Diagnostic Information and placing the module into diagnostic mode, see http://www.fordmods.com/forums/documents.php?doc=52
(must read it myself)

Have you tried to get any stored ECU diagnostics codes ? If not someone else in the forum may be able to tell you how to do this if EB's are differant to EF's in this regard.

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Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 12:25 pm 
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Got a mate you can swap ECU's with - just to see if it fixes it...

If that's not it it could be any number of other sensors; coolant temp, map, air temp etc...

Diagnostics don't always pick these up so test them as described in a workshop manual.

 

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Posted: Mon May 09, 2005 1:18 am 
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Under no conditions should the O2 sensor show 5v, its range is 0-1v, so if you are testing the correct wires then something is majorly wrong there. If it is a 3 wire sensor, make sure you are testing from the black wire to earth (there should be 2 white heater wires and 1 black sensor return wire).

It is also worth running the EEC fault codes (once the O2 sensor is fixed) as that will tell you whats going on. Could be TPS sensor, IAT or ECT sensor or MAP sensor faults which could lead to rich running.
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Posted: Tue May 10, 2005 10:54 pm 
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Hey did you ever work out what the problem was with your car running so rich, my girlfriends ebs doing the same thing .


Thanks :lol:
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Posted: Wed May 11, 2005 10:41 am 
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I did a diognostic engine on and off and it returned no faults???? It seems to have settled down a bit but it still not right... I got it down to 16.9 on a trip across town. But it smells realy rich at idle. Could be the ECU itself???

 

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Posted: Thu May 12, 2005 7:53 pm 
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Since we're talking o2 sensors, is it worth replacing it with another genuine Ford part, or go the cheaper after-market? Much difference between them?

Wolfpac

 

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Posted: Thu May 12, 2005 8:01 pm 
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wolfpac_w wrote:
Since we're talking o2 sensors, is it worth replacing it with another genuine Ford part, or go the cheaper after-market? Much difference between them?

Wolfpac


only if the sensor itself is rooted i had a mechanic tell me the o2 sensor is not working so i went out and bought a genuwine ford o2 sensor and it did stuff all. so yeh check the output voltages of the sensor with a multi meter first. if that doesnt work try these:

Clean injectors
test coolet temp sensor
check fuel pressure
fuel filter
check/clean ACT sensor (lacated near cyl 5 on inlet manifold)
check spark plugs
check ecu itself

 

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Posted: Thu May 12, 2005 9:26 pm 
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nannas_ed wrote:
only if the sensor itself is rooted i had a mechanic tell me the o2 sensor is not working so i went out and bought a genuwine ford o2 sensor and it did stuff all. so yeh check the output voltages of the sensor with a multi meter first. if that doesnt work try these:

Clean injectors
test coolet temp sensor
check fuel pressure
fuel filter
check/clean ACT sensor (lacated near cyl 5 on inlet manifold)
check spark plugs
check ecu itself


Thanks for that, nannas_ed! :D That's great, I'll have a look at the items, and see how I go. Although, I think the coolant sensor might be out, it barely gets above the lowest line of the "normal" area...

Wolfpac

 

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Posted: Thu May 12, 2005 9:54 pm 
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wolfpac_w wrote:
nannas_ed wrote:
only if the sensor itself is rooted i had a mechanic tell me the o2 sensor is not working so i went out and bought a genuwine ford o2 sensor and it did stuff all. so yeh check the output voltages of the sensor with a multi meter first. if that doesnt work try these:

Clean injectors
test coolet temp sensor
check fuel pressure
fuel filter
check/clean ACT sensor (lacated near cyl 5 on inlet manifold)
check spark plugs
check ecu itself


Thanks for that, nannas_ed! :D That's great, I'll have a look at the items, and see how I go. Although, I think the coolant sensor might be out, it barely gets above the lowest line of the "normal" area...

Wolfpac


mate thats the same as mine the temp never genrally sits on the N (on the gauge that is) but sometimes it will get to where the O is and then drop back down) so if you do end up working out out be sure to drop me a line as im having the same problem as you

 

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Posted: Fri May 13, 2005 1:17 am 
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Nannas_ed, are we at opposite ends of the scale here.... :? Mine's lucky to get above the "L", but are you saying yours is at the top, ie overheating :?: It's due for a 10k service, so I'll see if the mechanic can check over a few extra things then.

Then again, hottest its got recently was when I was sitting in the Westgate traffic (carpark) for 1/2 an hour... Even then it only got to about 1/2, even with dodgy welsh plugs! :lol:

Wolfpac

 

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Posted: Fri May 13, 2005 1:34 am 
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wolfpac_w wrote:
Nannas_ed, are we at opposite ends of the scale here.... :? Mine's lucky to get above the "L", but are you saying yours is at the top, ie overheating :?: It's due for a 10k service, so I'll see if the mechanic can check over a few extra things then.


You will find that high range clusters and low range clusters are opposite to each other. IE high range clusters start at N (cold) while low range clusters start at L.
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Posted: Fri May 13, 2005 1:38 am 
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EDXR8 wrote:
wolfpac_w wrote:
Nannas_ed, are we at opposite ends of the scale here.... :? Mine's lucky to get above the "L", but are you saying yours is at the top, ie overheating :?: It's due for a 10k service, so I'll see if the mechanic can check over a few extra things then.


You will find that high range clusters and low range clusters are opposite to each other. IE high range clusters start at N (cold) while low range clusters start at L.


:oops: :roll: Duh, thanks for that, EDXR8... I'm not rich enough to have bought a "high series"... :roll: :lol:

Wolfpac

 

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Posted: Fri May 13, 2005 10:22 am 
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I thought it may be the ACT sensor but I didn't think that the mixture would be effected that badly if that sensor was doggy. Doesn't that sensor just measure the intake air temp??? Would the mixture be changed alot form hot air {hot day} to cool air {cool day}? I am not really sure what perameters the ACT effects. I could understand ignition timing as hot air would make the engine more suseptable to pinging so it may retard the timing a bit but when would it require more fuel? but its the only sensor I havn't tested.

 

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Posted: Fri May 13, 2005 1:14 pm 
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ACT sensor only has minor affects on engine performance. The ECT sensor has a much greater affect on fuel mixtures.
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