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| BlkEB2 |
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I've overidden my Torque convertor Lock up signal using my crusie on/off button on steer wheel which just splices in the line out of the ecu and into the trans...this works fine at lower speeds than 90km but afetr that the preset ecu setting also sends its signal and it trips the trans into limp mode obviously because of the mod....I've tried fitting a diode in the line direction of the signal (not sure what rating) but still no good..Also tried disconnecting the ecu sig wire all together but it did'nt like that either! Anyone know how to get around this cos lock up is great to have at the button from 60km up and saves fuel!
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| Bozz |
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I did the same thing around 2 years ago, I documented it here for the worst few months of my life when I had a slushbox before I put the 5spd in:
http://www.performanceforums.com/forums ... t=67182212 I didn't have any issues with disconnecting the ECU wire to the TCC |
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| BlkEB2 |
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Bozz wrote: I did the same thing around 2 years ago, I documented it here for the worst few months of my life when I had a slushbox before I put the 5spd in:
http://www.performanceforums.com/forums ... t=67182212 I didn't have any issues with disconnecting the ECU wire to the TCC Umm o.k that thread does'nt exactly tell me anymore than i already know mate.....I'm after some problem solving so i can used it without the trans flippin out! |
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| Bozz |
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Use a simple switch from a secure 12v source such as the ciggie lighter.
When the TCC wire has 12v on it, it engages only in third or fourth. If it works when you have a different switch on it then you might find you're causing some other issues. AFAIK, the steering wheel elec contacts aren't designed to carry much current and it consumes half an amp. Try that and let us know how you go. |
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| BlkEB2 |
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Well i've been using the cruise on/off switch for ages and that is not the problem....The prob is when it is engaged at say 60km and you accelaerate up to 90 the trans flips out cos this is the speed that the factory setting in the EEC IV also sends a lock up signal! I think because its already locked up maybe its seeing this and flips into limp.....It's a real pain as i crusie on 90km alot to and from work...I also put a diode in that signal line before it splices in to stop the sig feeding back but no good also... I originally got this idea from two other guys on here that had a thread going about it....They had made up a diagram and a cancel setup from the brake pedal so it won't impede braking effort in an emergency stop.....I'm just using a basic set up for now....will try a better/bigger switch..
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| tjb45 |
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Sorry for changing the subject and all, but why would you want to override the lock up??
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| stockstandard |
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I would say its going into limp home because the ECU is picking up the slip in the gearbox. Same thing that happens when you put a hi-stall with too many rpm in.
_________________ Stoke me a clipper, I'll be back for Christmas |
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| EBGizmo |
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Its more than likely the ECU reads the resistance of the TCC solenoid before it engages it to check that its ok. Similar to the rest of the fault code checking like the Purge solenoid or ISC. I would try reading the resistance of the TCC solenoid, then finding a resistor of the same value (and appropriate wattage).
COnnect the TCC wire to this resistor instead, then power a relay from it with your diode. Have the relay control the TCC solenoid instead. Having the diode inline with the EEC is also causing a problem. With a diode, the EEC is capable of supplying the signal, but it can't "see" the TCC anymore, so theres your limp mode.
_________________ EF II Sedan
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| Bozz |
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When I did it to my EL (yes different ECU I know so it may not apply), I snipped the wire at the ECU so it had n control over the TCC and it worked fine.
What diode did you put in, something like a 1N4004, bigger, smaller? Test it, if its gone short circuit from too much current/heat then that could be causing the problem. |
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| EBGizmo |
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Maybe EEC isn't as picky with the presence of the TCC solenoid as it is with the others. I know that a diode inline with the ISC on the EB caused it to fail, as I was scratching my head when I was trying to get my RPM control circuit running with it. Would not work until I removed the diode and made it switchable instead.
I would say the EEC measures the voltage at the negative terminal just before it turns it on. If the negative terminal actually reads 12v (continual circuit from the positive through the coil to the negative wire) it might assume the circuit is ok and then fire up the negative to pulse it. But this is ISC, and TCC could be different.
_________________ EF II Sedan
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| gravelrash |
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subscribing to this... very interesting
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| Bozz |
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So try it, snip the wire to the TCC at the ECU and see if the fault remains or goes.
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| BlkEB2 |
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I reckon it's what 'EBGizmo" says as the other guys that were threading bout this had a diagram that included a resistor for just that and i gotta make this up now....The resi tricks the ECU into thinking the signal is being used up in the TCC solenoid....But it's actually being bypassed by the new signal!
the thread is http://www.fordmods.com/forums/veiwtopic.php?t=23725 |
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| BlkEB2 |
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Hey EBGizmo i it was you and'Snap0964' that had the thread going about this and the diagram for it which i photocopied! After reading it i've realise that uz were already talking about fitting to the ECU line out so it will trick it.....Now i have measured in the Lock up solenoid to ground and it's saying only 27.5 ohms that's not K Ohms either....It is a low voltage system so can i get a 30 Ohm resi ??? Do i just short the ECU lock up wire to ground??? Might just PM you!!!
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| EBGizmo |
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I looked at my Ellery's schematic, and it doesn't tell me if the switched wire for the TCC is positive or negative.
I don't know what wattage resistor you'd need either - use too low and the resistor may heat up. Dunno about that coil resistance you measured either - a small relay is about 200ohms. A car relay is around 60 I think. 27 ohms sounds a little low for my liking, but it is pulling more of a mechanical load than a relay, so maybe its correct. Be very sure what you are measuring before you go shorting anything to anything else with resistors. You could do damage to more than just the resistor if you make a mistake. Only way to be sure of the resistance of the TCC solenoid is to take both ends of the solenoid out of circuit - or measure both wires from points that you know aren't connected to anything else down the loom. This includes the ECU! If you find that the coil is indeed 27 ohms or so, using a value equal to or slightly greater than this should be fine. Don't use lower! Let us know how it goes - if in doubt, ask 
_________________ EF II Sedan
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