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Problems on petrol - choke and splutters at revs! UPDATED! 

 

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Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 6:02 pm 
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macxr8 wrote:
Have you tried to extract any codes from the ECU? That will give you an idea if it is electrical or something mechanical.

Also on the left hand side under the car are 2 fuel lines, one is a return and the other a feed from the tank, try clamping one off ( the return line) and see if that makes a difference


The fuel system is a return system for a reason and is not designed to be run without a return line.

How about we take the tyres off our rims and see if the car goes any better?
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Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 6:48 pm 
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maybe its that vaporate scotty hehe saving u lots of money in fuel atm caus it doesnt go, or doesnt supply enough petrol
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Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 6:53 pm 
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Rapier wrote:
maybe its that vaporate scotty hehe saving u lots of money in fuel atm caus it doesnt go, or doesnt supply enough petrol


Impossiable, it can't block the fuel in any way as it's just a replacement collar to replace the pintel cap!

 

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Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 7:07 pm 
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unclewoja wrote:
macxr8 wrote:
Have you tried to extract any codes from the ECU? That will give you an idea if it is electrical or something mechanical.

Also on the left hand side under the car are 2 fuel lines, one is a return and the other a feed from the tank, try clamping one off ( the return line) and see if that makes a difference


The fuel system is a return system for a reason and is not designed to be run without a return line.

How about we take the tyres off our rims and see if the car goes any better?


Der moron, I know there is meant to be a return line. however blocking off the return can be a useful diagonstic tool. Didnt mean for it to be permanatley blocked

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2006 1:03 am 
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twr7cx wrote:
Rapier wrote:
maybe its that vaporate scotty hehe saving u lots of money in fuel atm caus it doesnt go, or doesnt supply enough petrol


Impossiable, it can't block the fuel in any way as it's just a replacement collar to replace the pintel cap!


was aimed more at the humorous side not serious lol

have you ran a diagnostics check yet prob a good idea
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Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 7:58 pm 
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Tongiht we checked out the injectors and the signals there getting, turns out the injectors are getting the right signals (even when it gets to the point that it's spluttering and that) so the injectors are being told to let the petrol in (and since I've alreadyreplaced them it is fairly safe to be sure that they are doing there job.
So now I'm assuming that there isn't enough fuel pressure in the fuel rail. I'm thinking maybe fuel pump (was replaced and that's when I first noticed the problem - but I can't say if the problem was there before as the old fuel pump wouldn't run above idle lol it was shagged!). problem is to be sure it is the fuel pump i have to get ahold of another one to swap it over to!
gunna try and organise a fuel pressure gauge and put that in the lines to test the pressures now...

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 11:52 pm 
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dude if u wanna pull stuff out of my car to test it i dont mind to much, just as long as it works when it goes back in
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Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 1:25 pm 
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unclewoja here's a picture of the modified/cut down tank. it looks like they cut the tank in half and got rid of the side that is closes to the tailgate to fit the LPG tank in next to it. it only holds about 35/40L.
[image]http://img362.imageshack.us/img362/6715/dscn13967mi.jpg[/image]
http://img362.imageshack.us/img362/6715/dscn13967mi.jpg

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 6:06 pm 
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macxr8 wrote:
Have you tried to extract any codes from the ECU? That will give you an idea if it is electrical or something mechanical.


I just did a Diagnostics, only got code 521 - "PSP Failed open - The switch must be closed for the KOEO and ER test. During ER test, the steering must be turned approx 1/2 turn. Can be caused by disconnected or faulty switch, or failure to turn steering during test' which would have been caused becaused I didn't turn the steering and is irrelavent to the fuel system...

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 8:16 pm 
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And the plot thickens!

Removed the return hose and fed it into a jerry can, removed the fuel pump relay and 'hot wired' it, ran it, and the pump is definately flowing enough! and it's building up pressure, so the pressure reg is fine (as it should be being new). and there's good flow in the lines (no blockages or anything).

did the diagnostics with the engine on, and got 411 and 538.
Quote:
411 ISC Low Idle fail The Idle Speed Controller was not able to control the low idle speed during the engine running test

538 Operator did not goose ER test requires that the operator briefly open the throttle fully

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 8:17 pm 
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Try driving it with the fuel cap loose or off. sounds like it could be a negative pressure building up in the tank.

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 8:20 pm 
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matthew5772 wrote:
Try driving it with the fuel cap loose or off. sounds like it could be a negative pressure building up in the tank.


don't have a fuel cap on at present...

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 9:04 pm 
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just another thing to add, let the car idle and the problem won't happen - car was idling for 30 minutes, then reved it up and was fine. turned off for a while, took it for a drive and 500meters and the problem was noticable! seems to require load on the engine.

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 10:55 pm 
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twr7cx wrote:
Removed the return hose and fed it into a jerry can, removed the fuel pump relay and 'hot wired' it, ran it
For future reference, if you earth the top right pin of the diagnosis connector, and turn ign on, the pump will run continuously without the engine running - provided your fuel selected is Petrol. Might save you some time getting under the coolant reservior and pulling wiring, etc.

 

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Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 11:32 pm 
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cheers snap, that's really handy to know lol! actually would of saved some time!

 

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