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To those running XR ECU's in non-XRs... 

 

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 Post subject: To those running XR ECU's in non-XRs...
Posted: Thu May 25, 2006 1:40 pm 
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I've got a bit of a puzzle at the minute.
I've got an ED XR ECU sitting here, that whenever I put it in, it makes my car gutless as all f**k (literally struggles to rev to 5k RPM)
Which is a real pain in the a***, cause the only reason I want it is to fix my autos shiftpoints with the 3.45.
I know theres got to be a few guys running them on cammed motors without the XR fuel reg, so how does it go for you?
Car is an auto ED, extractors, exhaust, RPD stg2, base timing of about 15deg.
Any ideas on why, when running the XR ECU, the motor runs out of puff at about 4k RPM?
I would have thought, with the XR Fuel reg being higher pressure, the XR ECU would be running less duty cycle on the injectors, thereby leaning out the mixture a bit (could it be too much? i havent 'heard' it ping, but it could be).
Any ideas?
It's not a major problem obviously, but the transmission actually feels NICE when its shifting properly.

 

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Posted: Thu May 25, 2006 2:24 pm 
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My mate has a pretty much stock EBII GLi 5-speed, only mod being cat-back exhaust and he has an ED XR6 ECU in it. It's running fine.
And before you flame me as to why, it's there for when we put the cam in.

The ECU used to run fine in mine too, when I had cam/extractors/exhaust before BBM.

 

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Posted: Thu May 25, 2006 10:36 pm 
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I think the engine is losing it at top end because your timing is at 15 degrees, have you tried it at the standard timing point of 10 degrees.

Are you sure you didn't slip a cog on the timing chain.

Having a lower regulator may effect the overall output.

the other thing is if your air intake is restricted but I would look at that last of all.

 

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Posted: Thu May 25, 2006 11:31 pm 
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My EF GLi fitted with wade stage 2 and pacies and 2 1/2" then XR ECU (auto) ran fine no worries, idled better with the cam. Car's engine and driveline is now all completely Tickford/XR6 spec but.

 

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Posted: Thu May 25, 2006 11:42 pm 
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opto wrote:
I think the engine is losing it at top end because your timing is at 15 degrees, have you tried it at the standard timing point of 10 degrees.

Are you sure you didn't slip a cog on the timing chain.

Having a lower regulator may effect the overall output.

the other thing is if your air intake is restricted but I would look at that last of all.

How much more aggressive is the Tickford timing?
I did try base with it awhile back, admittedly I had an intake manifold leak at the time, though the XR ECU still feels the same, even with the leak fixed.
Definately havent slipped a cog on the timing chain, had it zip tied when we did the cam swap.
Lower pressure reg is my thought as well, but I'm nowhere near making huge HP, so if anything the slightly leaner mixture should be making it more powerful, seeing as how rich they run.
Air intake is definately not a restriction.
Running 3" mandrel 90 deg bend straight from TB to a pod filter.
At strip it is run with the headlight out.
Appreciate the ideas, as I ran out of them a while back!
I've basically given up.
I either have nice shifts with the auto and slug, or lovely top end and have to back off throttle to make it shift without bouncing off the limiter!
I've chosen lovely top end for now :D

 

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Posted: Fri May 26, 2006 1:01 am 
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Have you got your original ECU ?

Have you thought about trying it in your car ?

Okay the shift points are different but will the engine run better ?

Are you sure the XR ECU is not faulty ?

 

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Posted: Fri May 26, 2006 12:47 pm 
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I've got the stock ECU back in there now, I'm putting up with my shiftpoints at the moment.
Engine is running fine with the stocker.
I might get someone to try the XR ECU tomorrow for me on the cruise.

 

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Posted: Fri May 26, 2006 4:10 pm 
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the actual ECU may be stuffed, or some of the pins are dirty. My XR ecu runs my formerly auto car awesome

 

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Posted: Sun May 28, 2006 11:40 pm 
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My car runs rich as all f**k on a XR6 ECU: 6TEE. However the ECU from a NL Fairlane Ghia (with the XR6 engine) 6DMA runs the car beautifully.

 

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Posted: Tue May 30, 2006 1:59 pm 
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Put the original speedo gear on your output shaft and your auto shift points will be back to normal when using the stock ecu. Use a Jaycar frequency adjuster on the speedo signal to the dash to get that right.

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 03, 2006 3:01 pm 
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Correct me if I'm wrong (I mostly am :D) If you change your diff and the speedo gear to suit, then the ECU wont know any different, and change gears normally. I would assume that the ECU changes gears based on your RPM not speed...
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Posted: Sat Jun 03, 2006 5:04 pm 
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sorry you are wrong, the ECU shifts based on road speed.

I'm working busily to try to figure out how to modify that, so those with wacky diff ratios can get back reasonable shifts.

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 03, 2006 6:04 pm 
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So, My GLI ECU will not change gears correctly/at the right time because I now have a 3.27 diff in it. Even though I've changed the speedo cog in the auto. Would that be the cause of it not changing into 4th at 80kph??
I have been blaming my WOLF 3D for the bad gear changes...
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Posted: Sat Jun 03, 2006 6:22 pm 
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Changing the speedo cog is actually what makes the shifts f**k up.
If you left the old cog in, and left the speedometer out, it would shift fine.
Thnink of it like this.
My car had a 3.08 diff, and I put a 3.45 in.
The ECU is programmed to shift into 2nd, at WOT, at 80kph.
If I dont change the speedo gear, the car still gets to 80kph on the speedo (even though I might only be doing 70), so the box shifts fine.
IF I change the speedo gear (which I did), the ECU is waiting for the speedo to get to 80 before it shifts, but it'll never get there.
So it decides to let it bounce off the limiter afew times before it shifts.
OR you back off the throttle and force it to shift, which usually slurs the shift and f**k your box.

 

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Posted: Sun Jun 04, 2006 2:09 am 
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Yurp Steadys got it right.

What we need is to be able to change the shift points as well. I think I'm almost there. At least for ELs (as that's what I'm working on).

 

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