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3.3 L Cortina Pre-ignition 

 

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 Post subject: 3.3 L Cortina Pre-ignition
Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 8:03 pm 
Stock as a Rock
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Hey guys... I know it's not a falcon 4L *gasp* But I was wondering if anyone could let me know what to do with my Corty... whenever I turn the engine off after it's got to temp' it tries to keep running. It'll turn over for maybe 4 or 5 seconds then make a strange whirring noise? *Shrugs*

Any ideas?

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 8:06 pm 
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Spark plugs might be too hot or a build up of carbon in the chambers.

How do the spark plug tips look?

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 8:36 pm 
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i'd grab a timing light and check ur timing first
i had this prob ages ago.. the dizzy bolt was a little loose and the timing moved.. and it started pre-igniting. so after i got that fixed.. no more pre-igniting.

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 9:08 pm 
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Plugs look fine... couldn't get them out... nuts are to big for a plug spanner. But I was there when they where replaced... 3 months ago. Timing light? *sigh* more money :P

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 9:10 pm 
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eMpTyCoFfIn wrote:
Plugs look fine... couldn't get them out... nuts are to big for a plug spanner. But I was there when they where replaced... 3 months ago. Timing light? *sigh* more money :P


Im mean look at them now. The colour of the tip of the plug give you a lot of information about what is happening inside the engine.

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 10:19 pm 
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The colour of the tip as in the actual spark end? As I said, cant get them out. The nuts on the plugs are bigger than a regular plug spanner socket.

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 10:35 pm 
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Well its going to be very hard to diagnose and fix if you dont have the tools. Probably best just to take it to a mechanic.

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 10:36 pm 
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blow that :P I'm sure I have the tools... just have to fish about... I'll search tomorrow.

Thanks for the interest though, dude... Much appreciated.

 

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Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2006 12:36 am 
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I'd be doing a timing check first of all, then as stock said it could be a carbon build up, or dizzy could be shagged, that's likely being an old points job.
First of all i'd be checking points before timing.
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Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2006 7:28 pm 
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A few things to check, condition of the distributor internals, the advance weight return springs, may have lost some tension, worn shaft bushing, sticky or siezed advance shaft (thats the top half of the shaft that the rotor mounts on to) it should be able to be twisted one way and spring back. under the rotor should be a felt pad that should be oiled every time you change the engine oil, use ATF, only need 3 drops.
the other fix is to modify the advance curve, and fit an idle solenoid of an XC or XD carby, use this to adjust idle speed with.
They were fitted to these models to stop running on (known as dieseling)
cyaslater.

 

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