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3.9L/4.0L Inline 6 Modification Guide 

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 5:52 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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duno but i done the old spin the shaft and count job so im not sure myself but counted 3 and 3quater turns to 1 of the wheel so figerd 3.75 ?

 

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now have a series 1 au starting the mods slowly
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Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 11:42 am 
Tyre Shredder
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anyone know were i can get a 3.91 center and pinion from or what do they come out of ?

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 12:01 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
anyone know were i can get a 3.91 center and pinion from or what do they come out of ?


hi
the nissan pintara (the one that looks like a skyline) has 3.89 ratio and will fit into falcon as they are the same series borg warner diff...
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Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 4:02 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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is that the r38 and do i need to change the axels with it

 

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now have a series 1 au starting the mods slowly
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Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 2:07 pm 
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NSW, Australia

voxace,

how is it that you made a "shift kit" for $10? and does it work well or not? i have seen genuine ones for sale, one on ebay for 400 bucks.

And secondly people out there who run a powerchip or equivalent do you get much increase and are they worth their money, plus who paid what for them? i currently have PH4499 paceys installed and a 2.5" sports exhaust. The hub fan doesnt worry me, here in the country always movin so with the airflow the hub fan very rarely even comes in. and the only other mod i was looking at was cam, but for a slightly higher grade than xr6 with a vernier gear i was lookin at 600 bucks from crow cams... but i dnt want to go stupid so i have nothing down low, still want fuel economy, and i only have stock computer and map sensor... and still being at school and only only on p's i dnt have a lot of money and have to be careful how far i go... :( any rev heads with suggestions of the most cost effective next step?

Thanks,
Tim

 

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{DESCRIPTION}

Performance: Complete AUII VCT Wiring & Power Train, Pacey Headers, 2.5" Exhaust, Exedy Clutch, DBA Rotors
Visuals: FG XR Wheel, XR Front, 17's, BA 5 Spd Shifter, BA Ghia Window Switches, NL Cluster
Tunes: 8" Pioneer Sub, JBL Speakers, Clarion Double DIN Headunit

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Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 4:35 pm 
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A shift kit is merely a a few resistors and some wires joined together... and if you call a nice solid chirp into second working, then yeah they work well.

Powerchips are worthless, get a cam for the money. Remember you can get a Wade cam, shims and a new rocker cover gasket for like $200.

And welcome to the site Tim. :)

 

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Guides: {DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION} |{DESCRIPTION}

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Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 4:41 pm 
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NSW, Australia

Thanks,

Sorry my mistake i first thought short shift for a manual, as in short throw, coz that's what i own, my bad. Sweet as, shame this cam from crow is worth 600 bucks i haven't heard of the brand of cam you use. Are they any good and is there a website or email address whereby i could get in touch with someone?

Cheers,
Tim

 

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{DESCRIPTION}

Performance: Complete AUII VCT Wiring & Power Train, Pacey Headers, 2.5" Exhaust, Exedy Clutch, DBA Rotors
Visuals: FG XR Wheel, XR Front, 17's, BA 5 Spd Shifter, BA Ghia Window Switches, NL Cluster
Tunes: 8" Pioneer Sub, JBL Speakers, Clarion Double DIN Headunit

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Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 4:47 pm 
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I use an RPD cam, they are no longer around to sell cams unfortunately.
If you are talking asbout the wade cams I mentioned, I have used them before too. They have a section on this forum, and are also at http://www.wadecams.com/

And yeah those shift kits are for autos. Thankfully you have a manual, which are so much better :)
The short shifters for those are a few hundred bucks.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 6:14 pm 
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The short shifters with a positive stop are worth thier weight as the T5 doesnt have built in stops for the shift rods, which means that the stops on the shifter will help preventing the shift forks from becoming bent.

 

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Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 2:01 am 
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Ride: BFII XR6T, ZF 6sp, 290 rwkw

Location: Perth
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Well done voxace... finally i hav found what i was looking for... everyone says do this do that but i can finally work out what i want/need in terms of bang for your buck!!!

:D

 

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BF XR6T ZF 6sp
Custom tuned w/ Sniper box, Walbro fuel pump, 60lb injectors, Herrod intercooler, high flow cat... 290 rwkw @ 11psi hehe
EF Futura, BW T5 5sp, 3.45 LSD... The bunky!

Quality is job one... Putting out the fire is job two...

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 Post subject: Spack Problems
Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 7:32 pm 
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Ride: Folden Falcodore SSXR8

Location: Port Lincoln
SA, Australia

Hey i recently installed a Spack Cluster into my EA and the Taco, oil Pressure, Volt meter and odomoter dont work. Is this the wiring or what?

Some help would be greatly appreciated

Cheers

 

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 Post subject: Re: Spack Problems
Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 12:07 am 
Getting Side Ways
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{USERNAME} wrote:
Hey i recently installed a Spack Cluster into my EA and the Taco, oil Pressure, Volt meter and odomoter dont work. Is this the wiring or what?

Some help would be greatly appreciated

Cheers


well well well, fancy seeing you here :P

there is a pink wire behind the front right strut that is the tacho wire. ill pop round and wire it up for you if you like.

 

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1997 EL Fairmont Ghia 4.0 - Heritage Green & Cappa
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 Post subject: ALFY U RAT
Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2007 11:56 am 
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Ride: Folden Falcodore SSXR8

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SA, Australia

HAHA ALFY U ARE GOING TO COME ROUND AND WIRE IT UP HEY!!!

I THINK ITS SOMETHINNG TO DO WITH THE CLUSTER ITSELF CAUSE THE ORIGINAL STILL WORKS AND YER..... :lol:

SO WHEN ARE YOU COMING TO DO IT!!!! :twisted:

 

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 Post subject: haha
Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2007 11:59 am 
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Im sitting right next to you and we are talking over the net :lol: haha so silly

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2007 12:00 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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nathan ur gonna get banned if u keep posting useless s**t in this thread :lol:

 

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1997 EL Fairmont Ghia 4.0 - Heritage Green & Cappa
2010 Suzuki GSX650F - when I want to be silly

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