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| prl1960 |
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have been given the task of reassembling 4.0 head with new chain fitted (long Story ) got everything together but need to drop the distributor in and check timing Anyone let me know what position the distributor should sit in as it goes into the block . got info on timing but just need to get things started so its not a drama. when I fire it up
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| hillendcar |
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prl1960 wrote: have been given the task of reassembling 4.0 head with new chain fitted (long Story ) got everything together but need to drop the distributor in and check timing Anyone let me know what position the distributor should sit in as it goes into the block . got info on timing but just need to get things started so its not a drama. when I fire it up mine is pointed to about the middle of the tower,but it took me about 6 goes at getting it to work good..Brian |
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| prl1960 |
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hillendcar wrote: prl1960 wrote: have been given the task of reassembling 4.0 head with new chain fitted (long Story ) got everything together but need to drop the distributor in and check timing Anyone let me know what position the distributor should sit in as it goes into the block . got info on timing but just need to get things started so its not a drama. when I fire it up mine is pointed to about the middle of the tower,but it took me about 6 goes at getting it to work good..Brian Just to make it plainly clear can you elaborate ie 6 / 9 oclock ect with the rotor . there is abigger cut away in the pickups which I am assuming is No1 Also in the inside of the inside cover are the words start and finish .Any ideas on what that means . Appreciate any help |
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| creeture3 |
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I may be wrong here, but I seem to remember a "start" position marked on the dizzy, that you aligned the rotor to before dropping it into the hole.
As I said, I may be wrong 
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| Shortshift |
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I'm just installing a new aftermarket distributor into an EF block. When the No. 1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke, is the rotor button supposed to be between the No 4 & No 1 positions on the distributor? The service manuals are vague on where the rotor button should be if it wasn't previously marked.
I messed around for about an hour  trying to get the rotor button to the No. 1 position on the distributor, but it only seems to drop into place at 2 spots (the one shown in the photo and the other 180 degrees apart). Has anyone else found this to be the case or is there something wrong here?Are these eBay Chinese? distributors any good on modified engines compared to the original Bosch ones? I heard someone say they break down under load.
_________________ AU2 XR8 with Raptor VL, ported Yella Terra GT40P heads, Scorpion 1.6 RRs, XE264HR-14 Comp Cam, ceramic coated Hurricane Headers, 60lb injectors, Walbro 255, 200cfi cats, 3" exhaust & Snow Performance water methanol injection |
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| XRfairmont67 |
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the line on the dizzy cap spacer is where the rotor should point,number 1 on the cap. the distributor shaft has to line up with the oil pump drive shaft (6 sided like allen key). so you turn over the motor to tdc and have the rotor about 20mm anticlockwise from the line, it will drop in a little and you can feel the gears start to mesh. turn the crank over with a little downward pressure on the rotor and when the dizzy shaft lines up with the oil pump drive and will drop right down,fit clamp and plug in.
ps- dont just fit the dizzy and use the bolt/clamp to pull it in the last 15mm as this can make the auxillary shaft fail. i fitted one of those $35 dizzys to my el, done 10,000kms and had no problems,had a power run at dyno,made 126rwkw. also fitted 1 to my brother inlaws ed, same-no probs 5000kms |
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| Shortshift |
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Thanks for the info elf. I can get the rotor to just before the No. 1 position, but the dizzy won't drop down any further. Is the hexagonal fitting in the block supposed turn easily?
I'm wondering if it's got something to do with the tolerances of the new distributor shaft. As the block was built by someone else and is under warranty, I don't want to pull it apart. From where the rotor button is in the photo, the cylinder will fire just after TDC (which make sense to). I've rebuilt a few engines but never had this problem with dizzys. This is my first Ford I6.
_________________ AU2 XR8 with Raptor VL, ported Yella Terra GT40P heads, Scorpion 1.6 RRs, XE264HR-14 Comp Cam, ceramic coated Hurricane Headers, 60lb injectors, Walbro 255, 200cfi cats, 3" exhaust & Snow Performance water methanol injection |
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| prl1960 |
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The resistance you are feeling is the hex in the distributor shaft and oil pump drive not lining up . I used a5/16 x 1/4 drive socket to turn slightly to get it all together (turn thre oil pump shaft in the block . Use atight socket and extension so as not to drop the sucker in the sump : . Quite frankly Mr ford designed a pig of a motor to work on .Nothing is simple The act of removing a coil lead in place is terrible . Id love to get face to face with the designer of this engine . nearly100 years of building vehicles and they turn up with this abortion . Not happy
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| Shortshift |
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Thanks for the info guys. I'll try setting the distributor up again tonight. After reading a few alarming posts about cars misfiring and auxillary shafts being stripped, I want to make sure it doesn't happen to me.
 Cheers
_________________ AU2 XR8 with Raptor VL, ported Yella Terra GT40P heads, Scorpion 1.6 RRs, XE264HR-14 Comp Cam, ceramic coated Hurricane Headers, 60lb injectors, Walbro 255, 200cfi cats, 3" exhaust & Snow Performance water methanol injection |
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| Shortshift |
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Thanks for the info guys. I'll try setting the distributor up again tonight. After reading a few alarming posts about cars misfiring and auxillary shafts being stripped, I want to make sure it doesn't happen to me.
Cheers
_________________ AU2 XR8 with Raptor VL, ported Yella Terra GT40P heads, Scorpion 1.6 RRs, XE264HR-14 Comp Cam, ceramic coated Hurricane Headers, 60lb injectors, Walbro 255, 200cfi cats, 3" exhaust & Snow Performance water methanol injection |
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| prl1960 |
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Shortshift wrote: Thanks for the info guys. I'll try setting the distributor up again tonight. After reading a few alarming posts about cars misfiring and auxillary shafts being stripped, I want to make sure it doesn't happen to me. Cheers For anyone out there . it would appear some different thoughts on resetting the ecu .and ignition timing firstly I got mine going and seems sweet until about 1 minute and runs a bit doughy . surging ect . It have to set the base timing which I believe is done by connecting the 2 pins in the reader plug under the dash lhtop to lh bottom . That gives me a minute during which I have to do the base timing . Meanwhile the engine is running at 1500 rpm doing some sort of self test . So far does this sound correct ? after the base timing is correct the ecu takes over . Now somewhere in all these posts is the ecu reset which is engine running Neutral 1m with and without any electrical loads then something similar engine off key on with a/c or and of or something along those lines Have the correct proceedure written down but.Can anyone confirm this . Seems like a bit of an act really |
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| XRfairmont67 |
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ignition off, earth the 2 pins on left of connector. start car, revs will increase for 1-2 mins then drop down and be a little rough. you now have 2mins to set the timing then turn engine off,disconnect the 2 pins, lock dizzy and start , should all be set
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| prl1960 |
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elf100capri wrote: ignition off, earth the 2 pins on left of connector. start car, revs will increase for 1-2 mins then drop down and be a little rough. you now have 2mins to set the timing then turn engine off,disconnect the 2 pins, lock dizzy and start , should all be set cool Ill give it a crack thanks heaps love this forum thing excellent when you need a little help |
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