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$900 odd to replace an EL's head gasket?? "Are you serious?" 

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 3:49 pm 
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reading this is interesting if you have a friend helping to remove the crap required to take the head of i am sure it would take around two hours but if you want to do the job right, slow and steady wins the race took dad a full weekend to change the head gasket the tappet cover gasket and the timing cover gasket and he went at average pace so everything goes were it supposed to....

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 4:34 pm 
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2 hours would be possible if the motor was out and on a stand,,in the car would be near impossible unless it was off with the old and on with the new and nothing else.

 

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Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 12:47 pm 
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:D Just asking :D
Ive never done it, i have the gregories guide. Thought $950 was alot.
So if the gasket hasnt blown and your just refitting one the head still needs straightening? Hmm

1. At almost 190,000km's now, owned from 140,000, i imagine the head is going to be needing a replace soon :( As a proactive measure, what can i do to keep it from failing? (Running on lpg)
-Coolant flushed often, get machanic to replace head bolts??-

2. What causes the head gasket to go?
Heat, im told, is the biggest problem.
Using the 'secret menu' in the fords to watch the coolant tempreture seems to be a good way to monitor your driving.

Temps are; Cruising at 100 odd after 5km's:
On a very cold night: 63
On a cool night 68
Day 70ish.

3. Whats the tempreture range you want to keep it in? At 63degrees the temp gauge is just touching the 'C'.
Wondering how low i can get it, keeping it within its working range without causing any damage :)

4. Any mods; ie fitting another small radiator, getting a fan running on the heater core full time; to increase life? :)

Also i imagine fitting a transmission cooler is a MUST to ensure it lasts.
5. Would fitting two be of any benefit?

Cheers ;)[/b]

 

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Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 2:07 pm 
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Hey Gas-Man I don't think you should do it if its not needed.
If you do you should definitely replace the gasket and have the head face skimmed. While you are there the valves should get reseated and new seals. So it will cost you about $500 plus any 'machanic' charges.
I used to think this was caused by overheating or similar abnormal operating temperatures. Mine just went without any of these dramas so now I think it is also a time function determined probably by corrosion and deterioration of the head gasket. I would like to know the tension on the head bolts too after the 200,000. Maybe the old gaskets swell or something. As I said previously mine were really tight and that was after they had cracked. The correct procedure of tightneing on the new ones got them up to around 130 ft/lbs I noticed.
Many other cars get by with aluminium heads with none of these problems, that said the quality of the aluminium may be one issue. Same thing can be said for the head gasket, the originals may have been deficient in some area. There is talk about using the AU gasket, and I imagine ford will have invested more time and money than anyone else to resolve this issue so this seems valid. That said I used a Permaseal which they guarantee for 100,000. Time will tell.

Some pics?
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Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 2:14 pm 
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Just another tip when doing a head gasket.... Get them to do a hardness test on the head, aluminium goes soft over time with continual heat, it's not just warping you have to worry about with overheating.
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Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 4:24 pm 
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Hmm,
What about the transmission - SOMEONE THINK ABOUT THE TRANSMISSION :P

With replacing the head, wouldnt it be cheaper and probably easier to just buy a secondhand motor in good condition for $500, fit it, get a mechanic to fit it or whatever.
Maybe those motors for $500 are shaggeded. :)

Matt

 

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it can be reliable and cheap,but it wont be fast
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Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 5:21 pm 
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Trans cooler won't help your head gasket lol.... But def a good thing to have.

Yes go buy a second hand engine, and what if it blows a gasket the next week?
You're back to square one.
If the bottom end is tired then replacing it is the best option.
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Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 12:54 am 
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fastleno wrote:
i dont see why your pullin thermo's and all the rest of the s**t and ppl taking bonnets off and using engine cranes no wonder takes all day. the hardest is the intake and i undo the bolts to the head and leave it in place same with the exust manifold just put it to one side leave all the power steer pump lines connected to the pump, why make more work, i have a job on a EF coming up in a few weeks i should record it and post it on youtube for ya. and i anit a mechanic i just have done heaps for friends and family with a cash incentive. O and i anit the only one on here that has it at around 2 hours labour. practice makes perfect and why would anyone hurry when there getting payed buy the hour


ever heard of standard repair times?
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Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 1:18 am 
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I s this a good time to say I have a good motor that has been done already for sale if anyone wants it...

Never let a chance go by...

Cheers,
C
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Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 12:37 pm 
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Commando wrote:
I s this a good time to say I have a good motor that has been done already for sale if anyone wants it...

Never let a chance go by...

Cheers,
C

Whats does it cost to courier an engine to Victoria?
Matt

 

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it can be reliable and cheap,but it wont be fast
or you can be fast and reliable,but it wont be cheap

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