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Not long ago i did the head gasket on the xr6 i purchased.
i did all the welsch plugs on the exhaust side and put it all back together. i took it for a drive, and it spat the heater hose (only hose i didn't replace). i replaced that, then took it around the block again. this time it's the intake welsch plug that decides it's had enough. off comes the bbm, coilpack, starter etc, replaced them all on that side, and put it back together. i took it for another lap of the neighborhood, and she's all sweet. then i decided to take it down to the mechanic to get a roadworthy on it, and behold - rear welsch plug leaks! it's not too bad at the moment, but there is coolant coming out at the bottom of the bell housing. another job for me to do this weekend. so i ask - is it a pain in the a*** to rip the auto out of an ef? any special tools? cheers.
_________________ NEW RIDE - FPV FG F6 6spd Auto. 12.26@114MPH, 1.88 60FT on Cheapy Tyres with 38PSI - Stock except K&N filter! |
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| Slabz |
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i havent pulled the auto out of an EF, but i've done it to an EB (which is prolly 99% the same).
you shouldn't need anything special, just: good trolley jack to left the car up and let the auto down axel stands, to hold the car up ringey's and sockets to undo crap screw drivers, etc too you need to jack the car up, undo the tailshaft bolts from the diff, pull the tailshaft out. undo the bolt that holds the selector to the box. unplug the wiring looms. undo the bolts around the bell housing (hope you have 5 elbows and 6 knucles on each of your three arms  ). you also have to undo the cross member and starter motor. then undo the pan on the bottom so most of the oil drains out. then slide the box back and lower it down and push it aside. then you'll have to take the torque converter and flywheel off. then the hard part starts good luck mate
note: i've probably forgot lots of stuff so feel free to correct me
_________________ EBII 4.0L GLi | T5 | 3.27 Spool | POD | KKK K27 Turbo | 600x300x76 FMIC | 40mm Wastegate (dead) | RPD Stg1 Cam | B&M Launch Control | Thermos | 3" Dump | Twin 2.25" Zorst | 197kw@3500rpm, 7psi LEAN!
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Just out of interest, is it pressurising the radiator as soon as you start the engine, seems odd thats it keeps blowing out the weakest point as you described above.
You *may* have a cracked head, block or another buggered head gasket. This would cause it to pressurize the radiator quite quickly, and if this is the case, if you fix the rear core plug, you might find the radiator is next on the list. Did you get the head welded and faced when it was done, or was only the gasket changed? |
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head was welded and faced.
the radiator dosen't pressurise quickly, you can squeeze the hose after 15-20min of idling, and it's warm so it's all flowing. the welsch plugs were really rusty, it is weird that they all decided to let go at once but i suppose i have to fix it. cheers for the info fellas.
_________________ NEW RIDE - FPV FG F6 6spd Auto. 12.26@114MPH, 1.88 60FT on Cheapy Tyres with 38PSI - Stock except K&N filter! |
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| Ashman1985 |
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Stuff like that happened when my overflow cap wasn't releasing the pressure...
Blew hoses left right and centre... Also check your thermostat... make sure its opening and closing properly. |
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| madmax |
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smoke_rubber wrote: head was welded and faced.
the radiator dosen't pressurise quickly, you can squeeze the hose after 15-20min of idling, and it's warm so it's all flowing. the welsch plugs were really rusty, it is weird that they all decided to let go at once but i suppose i have to fix it. cheers for the info fellas. Its quite common for all the welsh plugs to fail at once. Where as only one may actually leak, the others will not be too far behind. You should have replace them all at the same time. I had a transmisson specialist replace mine for around $300. Also replaced rear main whilst he was at it.
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| Kingkezza |
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geez smoke_rubber i'm sorry to hear about the run of bad luck you're having with your car, i'm sure it will come to an end soon. Like madmax said do (or get done) the rear main seal while you're at it, stops any more grief from this area in the future for a $10 seal. Yes the transmissions can be an absolute pain in the a** to take out if you don't have the right tools. The biggest trick is unbolting the two bolts at the top of the bell housing, you need f**kin spaghettit arms to get at them. What you find you may need to do to get at them is get a seperate jack underneath the front of the engine and jack it up. This will tilt the engine back and give you a little more room to access these two bolts. Anyway mate good luck with it!
_________________ 5spd Heritage Green EL XR6. Wheels by ROH. Stereo by Clarion. Exhaust by Pacemaker & Lukey. Suspension by Whiteline, Durashock and K-Mac. |
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| wicksy |
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sorry to hear mate, i gotta get mine done too and the headgasket and the timing chain plus my gearbox is unfixable
_________________ Now i have a EF XR8 5spd.........mmmmmm 5L |
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| smoke_ |
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Ashman1985 wrote: Stuff like that happened when my overflow cap wasn't releasing the pressure...
Blew hoses left right and centre... Also check your thermostat... make sure its opening and closing properly. yeh radiator cap is fairly new, thermostat is brand new and is releasing when warm. i bought a new rear main and the gearbox input and extension housing seal and also a pan gasket. i thought that if i'm gonna pull it all out i might as well do it all at once.
_________________ NEW RIDE - FPV FG F6 6spd Auto. 12.26@114MPH, 1.88 60FT on Cheapy Tyres with 38PSI - Stock except K&N filter! |
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| smoke_ |
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I had a quick look as i was pulling the gearbox out yesterday, and noticed the leak is coming from the heater hose that connects to the water pump.
Oh well, at least the rear main seal won't leak anymore! Is there a better way of putting that damn heater hose in cause it was a real pain getting it out
_________________ NEW RIDE - FPV FG F6 6spd Auto. 12.26@114MPH, 1.88 60FT on Cheapy Tyres with 38PSI - Stock except K&N filter! |
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| mitchg911 |
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which heater hose? the 2 that go into the heater core shouldnt be impossible, maybe rerout it with some longer hose? if you mean the metal one that runs under the inlet manifoldd and around the back of the block, i say run a rubber hose around the front of the engine... that bastard metal one is always getting in the way anyhow..
good luck with it,, -mitch
_________________ BF XR6T 6spd Auto. 60lb injectors, Hybrid Cooler, Custom Piping, Custom Surge Tank, Actuator. |
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| smoke_ |
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yeh it goes from the water pump, under the exhaust and exits under the inlet for the heater core i think.
_________________ NEW RIDE - FPV FG F6 6spd Auto. 12.26@114MPH, 1.88 60FT on Cheapy Tyres with 38PSI - Stock except K&N filter! |
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