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Adam's headgasket thread. 

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:29 pm 
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I used to get all my pressure testing and machining done at REPCO but I am not sure if they do that anymore. I think they only do exchange heads now. Otherwise take it to a machine shop not a mechanic. Not taking a swipe at mechanics or anything but most of them don't have the equipment for this sort of test and machining so they will just farm it out and charge you their cut on top.

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:40 pm 
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Um, okay, anyone know if there are any machine shops in Slacks Creek, Springwood, South Brisbane?

Leroy, ummm, I had to bite the bullet mate. Had to pay someone $50 to take them out. Shame on meee, lol.

Leroy which part of the thermostat housing? Because I can't see any physical gaskets there, unless you mean some sort of sealant liquid stuff?

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:44 pm 
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ah well, probably $50 well spent. save you the heartache lol.

there is a gasket betweeen the thermo housing and the head (well there should be anyway) and one for the actual thermostat. i will get you a couple of o rings as well for the metal pipe into the thermo housing.

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:45 pm 
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They don't have a gasket at the thermostat. They just have a round rubber seal on the outside of the thermostat. Where the housing bolts on to the head has a gasket...... :?

Sorry just reread your post leroy :oops: forget I said anything and I bid thee farewell.

 

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Last edited by The Dog on Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:46 pm 
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Looks like original gasket...
Did a good job of blowing it too ;)
Been getting a bit of water into 1, it was idling rough in the morning wasn't it?
That'll be fixed now, I put money on it.

Put rags in the oil galleries, to stop s**t getting in there (the bigger weird shaped holes).
To clean the block, I used a barbecue scraper that I sharpened the end up a bit with a grinding wheel, scraped the majority of the gasket off, then got a block of wood and fine grade sandpaper to get rid off all the bits the scraper wouldn't get.
This is an important part, the block surface has to be clean, or the new gasket won't seal as well as it should.

Once it's done, I just blew all the old gasket out of the cylinders with compressed air.
It's also VERY important you don't forget to take the rags out of the oil galleries ;)

You're getting their mate, gotta say, you're doing a good job so far, you'll feel great when its all done, and back on the road.
Best thing is you'll be able to say you did it yourself and saved a f**k of cash ;)

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 11:16 pm 
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we use stitchlok at wooloongabba for our heads.
ring around a few places and ask for approximate prices.

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 11:17 pm 
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Haha, yeah I can't wait to be driving her again Steady, because I have done atleast some of the work myself.

I may of endured a lot to get here, but I couldn't get where I am now without you guys. So thanks again lads.

With the piston galleries, if I blow air down there, won't some of the gunk get into the block? Because there is heaps of crap in there, and obviously a small gap between the pistons and piston galleries.

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 11:23 pm 
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you dont need to blow air down the galleries, just clean the crap off the top of the pistons, wipe a bit of oil on the bores and let it sit there with a rag over the top.
just make sure you clean the top face of the block real good. use spirits or metho to wipe it clean once it's all shined up.

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 11:37 pm 
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K I'll do some work on it and post some more pics. Plus organise for the head and radiator.

Cheers.

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 11:38 pm 
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Till_Lind wrote:
With the piston galleries, if I blow air down there, won't some of the gunk get into the block? Because there is heaps of crap in there, and obviously a small gap between the pistons and piston galleries.

Cylinders = where the pistons are.
Galleries = where oil or coolant run

You don't want s**t down the oil galleries, so block those with rags.

I just gave each cylinder a quick blast with air to get any chunks of gasket out.
Although what smoke said about putting rags in the cylinders BEFORE you scrape the block clean makes alot more sense :lol:

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 11:40 pm 
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How you meant to block the cylinders though, it's like a 2mm gap? Oy vey. Maybe stick a vacumm cleaner down there? lol.

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 11:42 pm 
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steady ed, i didn't think that through... either way it all needs to be nice and clean.

till, if your referring to the cylinders that are almost flush, they're the easy ones to clean!

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 1:20 pm 
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Okay, so how many welsh plugs should I do? And what tool do you need to remove them?

Are Motorcraft sparkplugs okay?

And what is the type of sealant I use on the front of the block when I put the new head gasket on?

In this picture, there is alot of greasy crap in the boxed around and around that bolt that screws into the block. What's the go yo?
Image

Also looks like this in the plenum champer, thin layer of crispy black crap. Is this a concern?
Image

And lastly the right hand side of the block is very dirty/greasy, while the left is relatively okay. Could this be because there was black marks under the plenum champer where it joins to the head? Or is it the welsh plugs?
Image

Cheers lads.

p.s. Anyone who feels like dropping in to have a look for themselves, feel free. I'm South Brisbane, PM me.

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 1:29 pm 
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I think that bolt is the Timing Chain Tensioner thingy...but unsure.

Looks like you are getting there slowly Adam...learning heaps? hahaha

good luck with it...:D

phong =P~

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 1:40 pm 
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Lol, real slowlyyyy. Really unsure how to go about tidying this block. Coz there is heaps of crap in the galleries in the block too.

 

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