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Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 2:04 pm 
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Nigel wrote:
Not true - Fuel load calculations. Regulator pressure? have you got the fuel lines on the right way?

You need a fairly specific a/f ration to get "boom"

I am using the entire AU lower bbm, with it's AU fuel pressure regulator and AU injectors. Since the spark plug i checked was wet i figure the fuel hoses are right and fuel is getting through. The car does everything the same when i try it on LPG. Dual fuel has one major advantage.

One thing is when i put the EL upper bbm in place i reused the old gasket, seeing as it is made of metal with a rubber coating and i'm a long way from new parts. If there is leakage there could that be the problem, and/or could that affect the reading to the MAP sensor since the sensor is right there at the bbm join?

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 2:36 pm 
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well a stuffed tfi or hall effect sensor can still give you spark!! just not at the right time

also if the plugs are wet just clean and dry them as it may be as simple as fouled plugs??
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Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 2:53 pm 
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TROYMAN wrote:
well a stuffed tfi or hall effect sensor can still give you spark!! just not at the right time

also if the plugs are wet just clean and dry them as it may be as simple as fouled plugs??


You could alway's fine tune the spark plug's and see if they are correctly gapped or so, but again that would be once it is running.

TROYMAN'S right, it could be as simple as a fouled spark plug, but I would be going for the "tfi or hall effect sensor" first, because if they still give spark but is giving it at the wrong time then maybe that's your problem?

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 3:22 pm 
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I got a positive I.D. on the compression stroke, i didn't get any bubbles but could see the liquid flowing/blowing outwards. This means the dizzy was in the right place in the beginning. I fixed the orientation and tried the car again and there was pooping again and for a moment it was better than ever, i was wondering if the car might start. But i tried again and the good pooping was gone.

I have been wondering about the "finish" mark on the dizzy, does that give approximately 10degrees BTDC as is required by earlier motors with dizzy's? Isn't the AU 0degrees BTDC?

Do i need to bleed the petrol and lpg systems to get constant fuel supply? My thinking is not really, or at least, that i've done enough cranking to get things up to spec(?).

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 3:29 pm 
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TROYMAN wrote:
well a stuffed tfi or hall effect sensor can still give you spark!! just not at the right time

Okay, if i don't get any progress soon, maybe i'll check the module plug first, then if no go change the module.

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 3:33 pm 
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SpeedyED wrote:
You could alway's fine tune the spark plug's and see if they are correctly gapped or so, but again that would be once it is running.

The plugs were bought for my EL, but a fordmodder told me they were good for an AU as well?

Quote:
TROYMAN'S right, it could be as simple as a fouled spark plug, but I would be going for the "tfi or hall effect sensor" first, because if they still give spark but is giving it at the wrong time then maybe that's your problem?

I wonder how much out the ignition has to be for it to prevent the engine from running? My guess would have been about 20degrees, but now i'm not sure?

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 3:46 pm 
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I found that the pooping in the engine bay was from the flange between the exhaust manifold and cat. Now fixed.

 

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Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 12:48 pm 
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I changed the TFI dizzy module but it still didn't start.

I then changed back to my EBII ECU, but it still didn't start.

I am thinking about the fuel system again. When i try to start on LPG it is probably trying to start on petrol anyway, so i really need to be sure the petrol system is working properly. I don't think i've got the fuel hoses around the wrong way because i marked one. What is the easiest way to check though? The car now has long grass underneath so checking the lines back to the fuel filter for example would be difficult. Does the fuel supply feed into the underside of the diaphragm? That's the fuel pressure regulator isn't it? The line i have going to that was initially a bit loose and petrol was coming out, and i tightened the hose clamp and it's good now.

When i turn the ignition key to the "on" position i hear the fuel pump for a few seconds as per normal.

 

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Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 1:07 pm 
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1. get a timing light and check the timing....

2. get some "start ya barstard", disconnect fuel pump relay and whilst someone cranks the engine spray into the throttle opening...this will once and for all rove wether the problem is fuel or ign

 

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Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 1:18 pm 
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gogetta wrote:
1. get a timing light and check the timing....

I got a positive I.D. on the compression stroke, and at it's TDC the dizzy pointer is straight towards the "finish" mark. I've tried about 8 degrees in both directions from this and it makes no difference. Timing alterations have never made a difference.

Quote:
2. get some "start ya barstard", disconnect fuel pump relay and whilst someone cranks the engine spray into the throttle opening...this will once and for all rove wether the problem is fuel or ign

Ah yes, maybe the right thing to do next. Another option would be to force it to start on LPG, if anyone knows how to do that please let me know.

 

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Last edited by relaxed_diplomacy on Thu Oct 23, 2008 1:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 1:27 pm 
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EDITED

I have just read in my Ellery manual that "The constant fuel pressure in the supply line is controlled by a fuel pressure regulator mounted on the outlet of the fuel rail."

 

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Last edited by relaxed_diplomacy on Thu Oct 23, 2008 2:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 2:03 pm 
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the lpg systewill be using the efi fuel pump relay to send power to the convertor and tank solenoids...

you can bypass the relay by running power directly to it...get a wire and run it from the batt to the trigger side of the relay

 

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Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 2:26 pm 
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gogetta wrote:
the lpg systewill be using the efi fuel pump relay to send power to the convertor and tank solenoids...

you can bypass the relay by running power directly to it...get a wire and run it from the batt to the trigger side of the relay

At forst reading i can't understand your information, but i'm working on it.

I think on my XG when the revs reach a certain point, about 1200rpm, the LPG ECU cuts off the injectors and turns on the LPG side of things.

I haven't investigated the EB's LPG system but it also cuts in at around 1200rpm. If the car was on a hill i could roll start it and get things over 1200rpm and see if the LPG will run the motor but i don't have that option!

 

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Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 2:35 pm 
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I was going to say - the LPG comment depends on the LPG System.

Most start on petrol and switch after. Mine starts on LPG, with a couple of injector pulses to help the thing get going. Seeing as my fuel pump is stuffed it just takes a few seconds to start ATM.

Most of that stuff (LPG start etc) is controlled by your LPG ECU - and most of them do have an override for it. Each one is different though
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Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 2:44 pm 
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the ecu triggers the FP relay which sends power to the fuel pump (and lpg sols)...

u can alternately run power direct to the lpg sols...or run power to the FP relay permenantly...

you should check with a test light wether u are getting power to the relays and sols

 

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