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Another EF Idle problem (wont idle cold) 

 

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 Post subject: Another EF Idle problem (wont idle cold)
Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 2:43 pm 
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Hello everyone,

Just wondering if anyone knows about an idle problem with ef falcons.

My car wont idle when the engine is cold. It stalls out. You've got to hold the accelerator to idle it for a few minutes on start up (or stick it in drive while holding the accelerator down and go up the street). Once the motor is warmed up it idles fine.

I cleaned out the idle speed controller. Made no difference (wasn't very dirty).

I took it to a mechanic. He replaced the solenoid (no effect), and recommended I go to an auto electrician. That's my next step after this.

So anyway yeah does anyone know if this is a common problem? I've read only a few (literally 3) other posts where exactly the same thing is happening, and I think one was solved by cleaning the ISC, which I have done. I can't get a reply to the other one.

Either way I have read enough posts to know this may be a fairly uncommon but specific problem with EF Falcons. For this reason I'm not too sure about the auto electrician.

Also I can't see how this could be electrical... perhaps the thermostat or autochoke is malfunctioning, I don't know....

I have tried searching but couldn't find any similar problems on these boards.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 4:17 pm 
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try disconnecting the ISC and turning the car on, see if it idles then

another option is to slightly turn the idle screw to increase idle.

 

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Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 9:51 pm 
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could be a faulty air temp reader, small vac leak, coil packs might have a small crack that takes in water (with condensation) and then burns off with the heat.

or could be the ecu. got a mate with an ef, exact same prob. mechanic says its the ecu. could be something to do with the caps in there.

 

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Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 11:42 pm 
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it could quiet easily be the ecu - my mates EF Fairy wouldnt idle cold - it was the ecu.

What does it idle at warm?

 

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Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 11:45 pm 
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fagot

 

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Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 11:47 pm 
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ahahahahaahahha

 

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 Post subject: Thanks
Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 1:52 pm 
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Thanks for the replies everyone.

I will try removing the ISC tomorrow and see how it goes. I don't think this is causing any problems but I'll definitely find out.

I'll price an ecu and check out replacing it as the next step (depending on how much it is).

If that doesn't help i'll check out all the things fiftyone listed.

To answer your questions, the car idles ok when it's warm. By ok i mean 100%, and it doesn't stall out or anything.

When it's cold and I leave my foot on the accelerator, keeping the revs at normal, I can put it into drive and it will drive and accelerate normally, except if i pull up and brake (no accelerator) within about 75 metres when it will stall. After this, the car idles rough until it reaches it's operating temperature (it takes a few minutes of running).

If I sit there in neutral and rev it at about 2 grand it takes about 2~3 minutes before it wont stall. Then it runs rough for a few minutes and then it idles good.

Well thanks again for the replies. I really f**k appreciate it, this has been driving me a bit nuts.

I'll keep you posted as to how I go with it.

Last edited by Nicolas on Wed Sep 24, 2008 1:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 1:52 pm 
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94efgt wrote:
fagot


Zing!
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 1:53 pm 
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94efgt wrote:
ahahahahaahahha


Yes you really got me there.
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 1:58 pm 
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krisisdog wrote:
it could quiet easily be the ecu - my mates EF Fairy wouldnt idle cold - it was the ecu.

What does it idle at warm?


Yeah not sure exactly will check that out tomorrow as well. Seems to idle at normal when warm but I'll just see what it's at.
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 2:05 pm 
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I'll actually test the ECU. I think it's going to cost around $300. It should be in the Haynes...
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 2:22 pm 
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You should be able to get an ecu for less than that...
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 3:18 pm 
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Yeah you know that was that was the first quote I got, I have no idea how much they go for but since then I've got between 90-150, seen some on ebay for 15 - 40 but they don't match mine. I'm glad its not 300.
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 6:46 pm 
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I would seriously look at the IAT sensor (intake air temp sensor) Its located just below the throttle body and are cheap to replace at around $30.00. Mine was running rough when cold and ok when warm, replacing this fixed the problem. See pic.

 

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 9:06 pm 
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Check your map sensor hose is secure to the bottem of map sensor and manifold.

and if your up to it and got a multi meter and a friend to help you can test your Throttle position sensor, MAP, Coolant temp sensor, IAT sensor


Coolant temp sensor

should test from dark green wire with yellow stripe threw it other wire is it power feed.

10deg = 58.75 k§Ù
20deg = 37.30 k§Ù
30deg = 24.27 k§Ù
40deg = 16.15 k§Ù
60deg = 7.60 k§Ù
80deg = 3.84 k§Ù
100deg = 2.07 k§Ù


Throttle position sensor

when testing get some one to push the throttle slowerly and seen if it k§Ù or 250 k§Ù

im not 100% sure which one wire but it either the orange and black stripe wire or the one i think it is the dark green with black stripe

throttle closed = 3 k§Ù
Throttle open = 500 k§Ù


Map sensor

i beleve you test the dark blue wire with yellow stripe for this

ignition on = 0.155 to 0.156 kHz
engine idling in netural = 0.101 to 0.103 kHz
engine revving = 0.90 kHz
engine idling in drive = 0.105 to 0.106 kHz
engine idling with ac on or steering load 0.109 - 0.111 kHz


if all these seem to be close to and follow the patterns of above then there proberly good then if not try getting a new one from wrecks for few bucks and if fixes it you can see repco or coventry and get a new one if you want.

Let me know how you went and we can go from there

 

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