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| 93_eb_fairmont |
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hawkzs wrote: 93_eb_fairmont wrote: Yep, thatd do it. As for the car, if it isnt manual, convert it to manual. Re do all bushes with nolathane, if its standard height, lower it. Swaybars and anti roll bars are good too. Chuck in a leather interior, climate control, cruise control and a trip computer. Put in a big cam, then buy a custom programmed J3 chip. Diff gears are nice (want to get 4.11's). Convert it to electric windows all round, then get some leather door trims to match the seats along wih chrome door handles. Chuck on headers and an exhaust (before you buy the J3 chip so you dont have to get it tuned twice). If you dont have the full kit with the door pods and the front lip, buy it. Respray if it needs it. New tyres are always a worthwhile mod. Personalised plates. Thats should see very good power and a very fun ride. Shouldnt cost all that much either. thanx mate i have the full kit with shark fin spoiler original factory fitted, chrome handles already, factroy 5speed me and my mate sean are buying 3 wade cams at 128 each brand new and getting a j3 chip and programmer , so far it has super lows rides nice i need the front gaurds tucked and shortend shocks , im thinking upgrading to bigger breaks any ideas , and im going to install a line locker, for back power windows do u need motors?, climate controls on the list but apparently its hard cause of the wireing?, wats the best hedders wats people running? i already have a 2 1/2 inch sports system installed, i have custom plates (TIK-4RD) registerd to the car thanx guys Attachment: DSC00438.JPG Brakes depends on how much money you have, anywhere from about $700 for rotors and pads of a medium brand up to the sky really.Id be going with some DBA slotted rotors and yellowstuff pads, should do the job well. B&M make remote line lockers now, activated by a switch in the cabin, mount it one way, flick the switch and it locks the line (no pressure in the line), or, you an mount i the opposite way on the front, and it locks pressure in the lines to keep the brakes on, they only cost around $100 too so its worthwhile.Do need motors for power windows. Headers, the most known ones are pacemakers, depends what you want to spend. $400 will get you a set of new 4499's with gasket and bolts. About $600 will see a set of 4480's, which are comp extractors. I run the former on my AU XR6, and I cant see how people justify the extra $200 and the painstaking effort to find a heatshield, for what, 1fwkw and 1 nm of torque when running the 4480 comps. They look f**k ugly too, the 4499's look pretty normal and the factory heatshield should fit over them but I dont remember if EL's had the bendable steel heatshield or the solid steel ones like eb and such.
_________________ How many bears could Bear Grylls grill if Bear Grylls could grill bears? |
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| MICKYYYY |
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Sell it and buy something knewer when u get ur license back, silly spending money on it just sitting there and depreciating.
BF's will be cheap by then for sure.
_________________ Wanted Either Capri/Cortina/XY/XW/XR/XT with tough V8 stroker engine, auto, 9inch, upgraded brakes etc[/SIZE][/size][/color] |
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| 93_eb_fairmont |
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I disagree with all you nay sayers. If it was a piece of s**t then yeah by all means sell it. But having less than 100K on it, I say keep it. What are they worth now, 4 or 5K, s**t why even bother selling it.
_________________ How many bears could Bear Grylls grill if Bear Grylls could grill bears? |
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| EFNA |
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i think it depends on how much you love your car..... of course it will depleat in value all cars do but if you truly love your car youll keep it, and if you have 4 years to work on a car thats just sitting there id broaden my horizon and think full rebuild, maybe upgrade your bottom end. its amazing what you could do in 4 years with no rego or petrol to buy...
_________________ AU FAIRMONT GHIA: 5.0 Dealer ordered SVO mods ( seeking clarification ATM), tickford suspension. |
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| hawkzs |
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Froudey wrote: hawkzs wrote: 93_eb_fairmont wrote: What did you do to lose it for 4 years? refusal to breath test apparently pakky cops stitched me up and speeding ,, it sux but my misses will have the car out august next year maby .. A) why refuse unless your a d***head drinking and driving.. B) speeding hey? how fast? C) stiched you up hmmm, what did they plant a bag of coke or something... in four years man, the EL's will be going for like 2grand for a upsec car, s**t even the FG's will be around the 5-6 thousand dollar mark give or take... But i has been said, interior conversion, bushes, shocks, springs, etc etc are you going to let it run out of rego? then do the driveline up (mainly suspension brakes ball joints bearings etc) so in four years it will pass with flying colours... i wasnt drinkin driving i came off my rode bike and had broke ribs couldnt breath thats y i refused the wento to hospital and they didnt blood test me!!!!!!!!! i was sober no paky cops target all the buys cars who work at the locall macanics even wen my mum drives it she gets pulled up
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| hawkzs |
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93_eb_fairmont wrote: hawkzs wrote: 93_eb_fairmont wrote: Yep, thatd do it. As for the car, if it isnt manual, convert it to manual. Re do all bushes with nolathane, if its standard height, lower it. Swaybars and anti roll bars are good too. Chuck in a leather interior, climate control, cruise control and a trip computer. Put in a big cam, then buy a custom programmed J3 chip. Diff gears are nice (want to get 4.11's). Convert it to electric windows all round, then get some leather door trims to match the seats along wih chrome door handles. Chuck on headers and an exhaust (before you buy the J3 chip so you dont have to get it tuned twice). If you dont have the full kit with the door pods and the front lip, buy it. Respray if it needs it. New tyres are always a worthwhile mod. Personalised plates. Thats should see very good power and a very fun ride. Shouldnt cost all that much either. thanx mate i have the full kit with shark fin spoiler original factory fitted, chrome handles already, factroy 5speed me and my mate sean are buying 3 wade cams at 128 each brand new and getting a j3 chip and programmer , so far it has super lows rides nice i need the front gaurds tucked and shortend shocks , im thinking upgrading to bigger breaks any ideas , and im going to install a line locker, for back power windows do u need motors?, climate controls on the list but apparently its hard cause of the wireing?, wats the best hedders wats people running? i already have a 2 1/2 inch sports system installed, i have custom plates (TIK-4RD) registerd to the car thanx guys Attachment: DSC00438.JPG Brakes depends on how much money you have, anywhere from about $700 for rotors and pads of a medium brand up to the sky really.Id be going with some DBA slotted rotors and yellowstuff pads, should do the job well. B&M make remote line lockers now, activated by a switch in the cabin, mount it one way, flick the switch and it locks the line (no pressure in the line), or, you an mount i the opposite way on the front, and it locks pressure in the lines to keep the brakes on, they only cost around $100 too so its worthwhile.Do need motors for power windows. Headers, the most known ones are pacemakers, depends what you want to spend. $400 will get you a set of new 4499's with gasket and bolts. About $600 will see a set of 4480's, which are comp extractors. I run the former on my AU XR6, and I cant see how people justify the extra $200 and the painstaking effort to find a heatshield, for what, 1fwkw and 1 nm of torque when running the 4480 comps. They look f**k ugly too, the 4499's look pretty normal and the factory heatshield should fit over them but I dont remember if EL's had the bendable steel heatshield or the solid steel ones like eb and such. thanx mate that helped heaps i get burson cost price soo ill goo down and check out thosse parts cheerz.
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| hawkzs |
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EFNA wrote: i think it depends on how much you love your car..... of course it will depleat in value all cars do but if you truly love your car youll keep it, and if you have 4 years to work on a car thats just sitting there id broaden my horizon and think full rebuild, maybe upgrade your bottom end. its amazing what you could do in 4 years with no rego or petrol to buy... im deff keeping it is my baby, cant get an 8 seens im on red ps =[, yeah wen im done it should b mint =] well minter than it already is cheerz
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| frd906n |
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will we still have petrol in 4 years???????
_________________ Daily Driver, Series 1 Au Forte Quote: Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors
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frd906n wrote: will we still have petrol in 4 years??????? hahahahahahahahahahahaha, i would hope so
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| frd906n |
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you better start to save the petrol then and store it, lol
_________________ Daily Driver, Series 1 Au Forte Quote: Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors
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| GeZza200 |
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Id keep it, i dont understand how you lost it for 4 years though. You must of been going bloody fast because its 2 years if you refuse the breathe test
_________________ EL Futura: CVE head, Wolf V500, ICE Ignition and Coil, 36lb injectors, Walbro 255lb, Paci comps, 3" exhaust, T5, Harrop Truetrac with 3.9s. Now with 198.9rwkw, (~185rwkw and 13.80 @99.1mph) with more power to come |
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| hawkzs |
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GeZza200 wrote: Id keep it, i dont understand how you lost it for 4 years though. You must of been going bloody fast because its 2 years if you refuse the breathe test yeah i deffs am ,it was still on the speedo, um but b4 i had my licens i got done driving normally just a random pullup sooo it all got joined into 1 soo all up 4 years from yesterday =[
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| GeZza200 |
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ah sh!t, youl learn 4 years would be s**t but you should be able to make your car go pretty hard, i wouldn't touch the outside, the car looks really clean and the wheels look sweet.
_________________ EL Futura: CVE head, Wolf V500, ICE Ignition and Coil, 36lb injectors, Walbro 255lb, Paci comps, 3" exhaust, T5, Harrop Truetrac with 3.9s. Now with 198.9rwkw, (~185rwkw and 13.80 @99.1mph) with more power to come |
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| hawkzs |
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GeZza200 wrote: ah sh!t, youl learn 4 years would be s**t but you should be able to make your car go pretty hard, i wouldn't touch the outside, the car looks really clean and the wheels look sweet. yeahh is pritty s**t lucky theres a bus every 20 mins to my work =], out sides staying original except for those rims and lowerd more but should b a dream wen it get bak on the rode , cheerz daniel
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| 67RCE |
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hawkzs wrote: GeZza200 wrote: ah sh!t, youl learn 4 years would be s**t but you should be able to make your car go pretty hard, i wouldn't touch the outside, the car looks really clean and the wheels look sweet. yeahh is pritty s**t lucky theres a bus every 20 mins to my work =], out sides staying original except for those rims and lowerd more but should b a dream wen it get bak on the rode , cheerz daniel Do us a favour, sell the EL and buy a VN
_________________ ILL60 - EF XR8, Sunroof, Ticky Kit, 19x8.5/19x11 TE37's, 347, AFr185's, TFS BoxRcustom converter, Hurst Quarterstick, huge billet cam. |
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