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BA/BF motor into later E-series. 

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 16, 2006 9:27 pm 
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stockstandard wrote:
It looks like there is a bit of room between the pickup and the 1st main. You might be able to get 1/2" just by having the pickup coming in at an angle. Could also use thinner pipe (or flattened big pipe) for more room.

I wouldnt say it cant be done just yet anyway.


I was thinking about the thinner and wider piping...though it may not be able to flow as well as a large open pipe, rather it will flow faster. Stupid fluid dynamics. Faster flowing might just be better?

phong =P~

 

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Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 11:02 am 
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Seeing as everyone says the old 4spd auto fits onto the BA engine
does that mean that the new 6spd auto would fit onto an E-series engine??
would tailshaft need modifying?
is the box bigger than the 4spd box?
can anyone answer that question
just in case i was to get my hands on one of them :wink:

 

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Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 12:13 pm 
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JohnnyFX wrote:
Seeing as everyone says the old 4spd auto fits onto the BA engine
does that mean that the new 6spd auto would fit onto an E-series engine??
would tailshaft need modifying?
is the box bigger than the 4spd box?
can anyone answer that question
just in case i was to get my hands on one of them :wink:


I think the E series trans tunnel is bigger than the BA one.

Ive been told my Tremec TR3550 wont fit a BA motor in a BA but it is fine on a BA motor in my EA. Whether that is due to length of the box and shifter location or size of the tunnel Im not sure.

The BA engine and AU engine seem to be the same when it comes to bellhousings. ie. My EA tremec bellhousing fits up to my BA motor with just the 2 bottom bolts not lining up.

If you use your usual gearbox then you can use the same tailshaft as well. Imagine the 6 speed tailshaft would have a different trans slip yoke but Im not positive.

You would still need to figure out an ECU to control the 6 speed auto as well which might be hard.
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Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 3:39 pm 
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yeah true that

i always forget about the elctronic side
stupid computers :?

what about the new 6spd manual then?
compared to the 5spd?
would it fit?
or is there a prob with the elctrics again?

 

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Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 4:00 pm 
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Nah that wouldnt cause any dramas with the electrics that a few quick changes wouldnt solve.

The speedo sensor is different though, thats one thing.

It doesnt run off the box in BA's I think someone mentioned.
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Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 4:35 pm 
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Yeah, pretty sure they use the ABS/wheelspeed sensors to get road speed, as opposed to measuring output shaft speed via a speedo sender in the box.

 

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Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 9:01 pm 
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Steady ED wrote:
Yeah, pretty sure they use the ABS/wheelspeed sensors to get road speed, as opposed to measuring output shaft speed via a speedo sender in the box.


unless its from a ute without ABS , then they have a sensor in the back of the box , but all 6 speeds will have ABS anyway!
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Posted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 10:25 am 
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i may look at getting some k frames modified to suit E series with BA / AU motors . and getting them approved by an engineer. may take a little while but an off the shelf k frame would be a good option for most people.

price might be a problem as i would expect $500 ish for the bolt in unit.

what sort of intrest would we have??
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Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 11:52 pm 
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Looks like i won't be doing this...I guess spending all that money is not worth it in the end...especially someone like me. I'll settle with a rebuilt EL motor...extractors a cam and some other stuff...and maybe turbo if i ever get the money togheter

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 2:06 pm 
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stockstandard wrote:
phongus wrote:
stockstandard wrote:
phongus wrote:
don't worry about the turbo motor...just turbo the NA one when you get the chance.


Putting a turbo on a NA DOHC isn't as good as getting a turbo DOHC.


=( it isn't...dayum...what about a blower??


The turbo engines have a low compression ratios which is suited to forced induction. The NA engines compression ratio is much higher.


How is the compression ratio different? Different cumbustion chamer size in the head or are the pistons different. If its jus the pistons then they will end up in the bin anyway, even if you had a T motor to begin with. If the heads are different then that is the only reason why you would get a T motor off the bat. Unless you like red rocker covers.
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Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 4:05 pm 
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phongus wrote:
Looks like i won't be doing this...I guess spending all that money is not worth it in the end...especially someone like me. I'll settle with a rebuilt EL motor...extractors a cam and some other stuff...and maybe turbo if i ever get the money togheter

It's probably cheaper and easier to buy a BA/BF. :p
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Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 4:18 pm 
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andrewts wrote:
It's probably cheaper and easier to buy a BA/BF. :p


its always cheaper and easier to just go with 99% of the population.
be different, its better

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 4:24 pm 
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Yeah, I've always been a bit of a conformist. :p
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Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 4:40 pm 
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xcabbi wrote:

How is the compression ratio different? Different cumbustion chamer size in the head or are the pistons different. If its jus the pistons then they will end up in the bin anyway, even if you had a T motor to begin with. If the heads are different then that is the only reason why you would get a T motor off the bat. Unless you like red rocker covers.


Pistons are different.

The T's have lower comp pistons, floating gudgeon pins, inconnel exhaust valves, better rods depending on the model (and day of the week it seems).

I would be doing pistons and rods anyway, Im not sure how much difference the valves make but earlier falcons get along alright with a turbo and normal valve spring material.

I think if you could pick up a complete T motor including turbo, looms, accessoreis etc for $4500 it would be a good deal as you get the turbo and manifold, oil and water lines etc.

In my case I already had a better turbo, external wastegate and didnt want to lose $4500 if this conversion didnt work out.
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Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 10:59 pm 
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i could have gotten a complete T motor up here for $4400... but went the cheaper non T motor as i didn't have that sorta coin laying around and the non T motor will go pretty well in my EA anywayz.. and can turbo this motor later next year
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