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Best Cam for xr6 

 

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 Post subject: Best Cam for xr6
Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 5:01 pm 
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Hey guys,

whats the best value cam for my ed xr6?

 

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Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 5:12 pm 
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no one cam is better then any other cam.

it all comes down to what the cam was designed to achieve.

if you are looking for value a regrind cam is the cheap way. plenty of guys do them

RPD
tighe
wade
surecam
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Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 7:29 pm 
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I Don't want a re-grind.

I want a cam that makes my car go hard from 2000 to 5000 and pull even better burnouts than it does allready :)

crane cams any good?

 

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Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 7:50 pm 
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Age: 38

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Ride: 98 XH XR6

Location: Diamond creek
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sorry to hijack but im lookin at gettin a alted stage 3 cam
is it worth gettin a stage 2 or 3?
will my xr6 stand the stage 3 cam?
and what brand is the best?

any help greatly appreciated need one in the next few weeks so info would be helpfull

thanks
wobbo

 

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4.0ltr 1998 XH XR6 - 2 JVC 4way 6X9's - 2 JVC 4way 4" in doors - JVC head unit - AU XR8 intake snorkel


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Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 7:56 pm 
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wobbo wrote:
sorry to hijack but im lookin at gettin a alted stage 3 cam
is it worth gettin a stage 2 or 3?
will my xr6 stand the stage 3 cam?
and what brand is the best?

any help greatly appreciated need one in the next few weeks so info would be helpfull

thanks
wobbo


stage 2 is pretty damn fine, got one in my auto and it idles perfectly and has heaps more punch mid range-top end

have you got an auto or manual?

 

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Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 7:57 pm 
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VIC, Australia

Mhgill wrote:
I Don't want a re-grind.

I want a cam that makes my car go hard from 2000 to 5000 and pull even better burnouts than it does allready :)

crane cams any good?


I have a JMM DEV3HL cam in my car. Check out the dyno figures and make up your own mind. Blue line is with replacement headers, hi flo cat, and s/s 2 1/2" exhaust. Red line is with the addition of the cam and intake mods...

 

 

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Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 7:58 pm 
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manual thats why i was thinkin stage 3

 

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Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 8:02 pm 
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Mhgill wrote:
I Don't want a re-grind.

I want a cam that makes my car go hard from 2000 to 5000 and pull even better burnouts than it does allready :)

crane cams any good?


crane dont do cams for your engine.

all of the above companies will also do a new billet cam.

for 2000-5000 PRD stg2

surecam street worrior cam

tighecams web site seems to be down righ now so i can't tell you the part number, but they do a cam with around .525" lift and 280 ADV duration,
that should be in the range you are looking for.
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Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 8:12 pm 
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wobbo wrote:
manual thats why i was thinkin stage 3


apparently stage 3 is a balls out cam. havent been in a car fitted with one, but if its anything close to the stage 2 it would hammer i reckon. talk to jaysen about your needs

 

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Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 8:45 pm 
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IMO dont pick a company, then the cam. Talk to each about what you want and ask them to recommend a cam. That will narrow your decision down.

Also remember that there isnt such as thing as the best cam. Cams are all about compromises between top end power, low end power, idle quality, keeping ECU's happy, fuel economy, etc. Different cam = different set of compromises. What you want to do is find the best set of compromises for your car and how you drive it.

Also remember that if you get a bigger cam, you will often need to budget for new springs as well.

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 1:23 pm 
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Ride: EL Ghia Tickford 5.0

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OK. Sure cams seem quite good. i'll get in touch with them.

Whats the best price for a vernier cam gear and better valve springs then?

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 1:45 pm 
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depends whats done to the ed...you cant have a stock motor and get a stage 3

a motor has to be built to SUIT the cam

therefore, depends what compression ratio your running, head port (CFM flow), extake, manifold, throttle body...what crank/stroke and rod sizes do you have? the smaller the stroke, the more rpm your motor can make and the more camshaft duration you can have

theres many questions to decide on the right cam...

your better off asking and expert on what grind to get rather than slapping in a stage 3 in your stock motor

also, a grinded cam can have the same specs as one bought from CROW or whatever brand...doesnt mean their crap

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 9:00 pm 
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MYLO_XR6 wrote:
depends whats done to the ed...you cant have a stock motor and get a stage 3

a motor has to be built to SUIT the cam

therefore, depends what compression ratio your running, head port (CFM flow), extake, manifold, throttle body...what crank/stroke and rod sizes do you have? the smaller the stroke, the more rpm your motor can make and the more camshaft duration you can have

theres many questions to decide on the right cam...

your better off asking and expert on what grind to get rather than slapping in a stage 3 in your stock motor

also, a grinded cam can have the same specs as one bought from CROW or whatever brand...doesnt mean their crap


considering the engine it's for. the bore/ stroke never changed for the 4.0
the rods went from 5.8 to 6 in the AU compression was between 8.8 and 9.35 across all the 4.0 engines. the stock rev limmit is 5800rpm, there are no aftermarket intake manifolds and the stock 65mm TB is fine on most engines and very rarely gets changed,

the people that make these cams also know all of that. and have profiled the cams to suit, they also note in the catalogs if the cam is not suited to particlar level of modification where it be none at all or full house.



and i'm sure you will find a few people here that will argue the fact you can put stage 3 (what ever the f**k that is, one guys stg3 will be not bigger then some one elses stg1) in a stock engine
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Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 9:48 pm 
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dev3hl is a good choice if you are not going to rebuild the enhgine and head. wade 1636 maye 1004 there are many cam profiles to choose from1

You have to know what you want and be prepared to live with it.

1521a may be good for you if its a manual and ALL you want to do is do burnouts.
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Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 11:39 pm 
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jonbays wrote:
1521a may be good for you if its a manual and ALL you want to do is do burnouts.


And you want to run an aftermarket computer

 

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