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best coolant 

 

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 Post subject: Re: best coolant
Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 7:58 pm 
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Falcon96XR6 wrote:
What mixture ratio do yous run with nulon concentrate?


Me personally i use 50 \ 50 mix. :P

Gab1 wrote:
You guys are all gonna bag the crap out of me, but I"ve been running nothing but WATER in my cars for years. As long as you change it OFTEN, and keep the level good, I've never had an issue, I've always generally had a minor water leak though, I think when I seal all my water leaks, I'll run coolant, but with plenty of changes and flushes, I've had no issues running WATER.

Cheers, Gab


If you want to use water i respect your choice but ive always been taught to use coolant with the right mix. :)

 

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 Post subject: Re: best coolant
Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 9:00 pm 
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93EB wrote:
Gab1 wrote:
You guys are all gonna bag the crap out of me, but I"ve been running nothing but WATER in my cars for years. As long as you change it OFTEN, and keep the level good, I've never had an issue, I've always generally had a minor water leak though, I think when I seal all my water leaks, I'll run coolant, but with plenty of changes and flushes, I've had no issues running WATER.

Cheers, Gab


If you want to use water i respect your choice but ive always been taught to use coolant with the right mix. :)



as have i... altho i used tectalloy 30 years ago in a mostly iron block [yeah i know] with not a problem - alloy was clean as


Gab - do you flush often? [sediment]
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 Post subject: Re: best coolant
Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 9:42 pm 
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I flush it every time it looks dirty - Keeping in mind that I look under my bonnet EVERY time I drive my car - But I'd prefer to run coolant - it's just I haven't had enough funds to make everything "spot on" yet, so I've just been very careful to run CLEAN water in my cooling system, and it's been ok. Mind you, I now have iron heads and an iron block (5.0 Litre) but i've done it in alloy head cars too and it's been alright. I don't recommend it, but it's been ok.

Cheers, Gab
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 Post subject: Re: best coolant
Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 9:53 pm 
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Dont some cars need coolant as it also lubricates the water pump? Just a thought

 

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 Post subject: Re: best coolant
Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 9:54 pm 
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bry40l wrote:
Dont some cars need coolant as it also lubricates the water pump? Just a thought


Yeap

I would suggest to Gab , to run a few drops of redline water wetter , or if someone here could provide a household alternative that would be even better for a budget
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 Post subject: Re: best coolant
Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 10:13 pm 
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no.. the water pump is a sealed bearing unit, coolant don't lubricate it.. the only problem I see from just running water is corrosion and electrolysis..

you don't have to run coolant, but its best to at least add anti corrosion inhibitor to the water..
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 Post subject: Re: best coolant
Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 10:19 pm 
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TROYMAN wrote:
no.. the water pump is a sealed bearing unit, coolant don't lubricate it.. the only problem I see from just running water is corrosion and electrolysis..

you don't have to run coolant, but its best to at least add anti corrosion inhibitor to the water..



ahh ok never knew that must be a big myth then coolant provide water pump bearing lubricant
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 Post subject: Re: best coolant
Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 11:09 pm 
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EF_wanabe wrote:
TROYMAN wrote:
no.. the water pump is a sealed bearing unit, coolant don't lubricate it.. the only problem I see from just running water is corrosion and electrolysis..

you don't have to run coolant, but its best to at least add anti corrosion inhibitor to the water..



ahh ok never knew that must be a big myth then coolant provide water pump bearing lubricant




whaaat the fraack...... your kidding me right??? :roll:
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 Post subject: Re: best coolant
Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 10:06 am 
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One of the first jobs a new inhibitor does is to coat all the metal surfaces in the cooling system, and what is left over is the residual alkalinity.......this runs out over time....cheap coolant runs out sooner than quality coolant.
Therefore, if/when you change/flush the cooling system and you don't know what was in it before, run a chemical cooling system flush through it.....the one I like to use is the Loctite brand one.....this removes most of the old coating from the previous coolant.

The inhibitor I run is Repco Inhibitor Concentrate ( 1 bottle makes 10 litres ), so I use 2 bottles, and change it every 2 years, and haven't had a headgasket, or any other gasket, or water pump problems.
It doesn't get cold here, so no need for anti-freeze here, but is does get hot, and I haven't had overheating issues, even when towing another car.

It's up to you as to what coolant you want to run, but the coolant must have at least 900 grams per litre of Glycol to be any good.

 

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 Post subject: Re: best coolant
Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 1:26 pm 
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I've always used Tectaloy Gold with mine. A bottle mixed with distilled water.

 

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 Post subject: Re: best coolant
Posted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 7:42 pm 
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Repco Anti freeze, anti boil is 1060 gm/litre of Ethylene Glycol.....minimum mix is 33% for old school, and 50% for newer stuff.

 

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 Post subject: Re: best coolant
Posted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 6:09 pm 
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you can also get glycol free inhibitor which is what track cars run without heating issues. Glycol is banned in racing due to it's 'oily coating' abilities. I understand this isn't relevant for street cars but it helps my point:

The working pressure increases boiling point more than the glycol does. If I remember correctly for every 15psi you get a 10 degree increase in boiling temp. Glycol actually retards the coolants ability to purge heat, so in some cases makes heating problems worse. If you feel the need to run a glycol based coolant then a properly functioning cooling system should still only need what the manufacturer specifies which in all my fords is 33%. (check your own specific requirements)

Adding more glycol just becomes counter-productive in most parts of this country.

 

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 Post subject: Re: best coolant
Posted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 1:28 am 
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low_ryda wrote:
you can also get glycol free inhibitor which is what track cars run without heating issues. Glycol is banned in racing due to it's 'oily coating' abilities. I understand this isn't relevant for street cars but it helps my point:

The working pressure increases boiling point more than the glycol does. If I remember correctly for every 15psi you get a 10 degree increase in boiling temp. Glycol actually retards the coolants ability to purge heat, so in some cases makes heating problems worse. If you feel the need to run a glycol based coolant then a properly functioning cooling system should still only need what the manufacturer specifies which in all my fords is 33%. (check your own specific requirements)

Adding more glycol just becomes counter-productive in most parts of this country.


The point at which there is too much Glycol is 68%....what it doesn't do above that mixture is pass the heat from block to coolant to radiator...as was my understanding when I did a Wynns school about 20 years ago.
Since then, there is OAT and HAT type coolants.....none of which I like.
I concider 33% mix to be a cheap skates way......50%....lasts longer too.
Thats just me though.

 

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 Post subject: Re: best coolant
Posted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 11:02 pm 
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TROYMAN wrote:
no.. the water pump is a sealed bearing unit, coolant don't lubricate it.. the only problem I see from just running water is corrosion and electrolysis..

you don't have to run coolant, but its best to at least add anti corrosion inhibitor to the water..


whist you are correct, the bearing is sealed, some cars (Ford LS/LT/LW Focus comes to mind) suffer from noisy water pumps if the coolant is incorrect. I believe it is the seal that needs the lubrication of the glycol.
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 Post subject: Re: best coolant
Posted: Mon Oct 07, 2013 7:29 pm 
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xpression wrote:
TROYMAN wrote:
no.. the water pump is a sealed bearing unit, coolant don't lubricate it.. the only problem I see from just running water is corrosion and electrolysis..

you don't have to run coolant, but its best to at least add anti corrosion inhibitor to the water..


whist you are correct, the bearing is sealed, some cars (Ford LS/LT/LW Focus comes to mind) suffer from noisy water pumps if the coolant is incorrect. I believe it is the seal that needs the lubrication of the glycol.


Yep, the ceramic seal still needs lube.

 

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