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Big End Bearing Vs Piston Slap 

 

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 Post subject: Big End Bearing Vs Piston Slap
Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 10:46 pm 
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Hi all
I have been chasing the most annoying rattle on the face of the earth in my EF.
For ages I thought it was little end, and replaced HLA's & oil to no avail.

So tonight I get it on some stands & crawl underneath & there she be, coming from back of motor towards the bell housing but definitely on the motor side.
Probably around no#6, bottom of the sump area.

It starts up dead quiet & goes for 2-3 mins quiet, then a knock/rattle sound builds slowly until it's a constant rattlly sound when hot.

So my question.
What the f**ck could it be?

Is there any way to distinguish between bearing noise and piston slap? and anything else it could be???

Any help appreciated.

 

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Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 10:47 pm 
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piston slap/rattle, generaly gets quieter as the engine heats up

 

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 Post subject: Re: Big End Bearing Vs Piston Slap
Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 11:54 pm 
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smithy_1 wrote:
Hi all
I have been chasing the most annoying rattle on the face of the earth in my EF.
For ages I thought it was little end, and replaced HLA's & oil to no avail.

So tonight I get it on some stands & crawl underneath & there she be, coming from back of motor towards the bell housing but definitely on the motor side.
Probably around no#6, bottom of the sump area.

It starts up dead quiet & goes for 2-3 mins quiet, then a knock/rattle sound builds slowly until it's a constant rattlly sound when hot.

So my question.
What the f**ck could it be?

Is there any way to distinguish between bearing noise and piston slap? and anything else it could be???

Any help appreciated.
Does it only do it at idle? If so try for loose Torque convertor bolts.

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 2:34 pm 
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Yes it does seem to do it more at idle. The sounds increases with revs & gives out about 1500-2000 rpm. Don't know whether this is because it stops at these revs, or it's just too quick to hear anymore.

Is there an easy way to give the torque converter bolts a hit, without taking the whole tranny off? I fear not.

Also, is it possible to slip in new bottom end bearings with engine in situ & sump removed via k-frame?

cheers

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 2:41 pm 
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smithy_1 wrote:
Yes it does seem to do it more at idle. The sounds increases with revs & gives out about 1500-2000 rpm. Don't know whether this is because it stops at these revs, or it's just too quick to hear anymore.

Is there an easy way to give the torque converter bolts a hit, without taking the whole tranny off? I fear not.

Also, is it possible to slip in new bottom end bearings with engine in situ & sump removed via k-frame?

cheers
Just undo the inspection cover on the bellhousing and the 4 bolts can be accessed easily.

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 4:41 pm 
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Is that the 4 bolts on the flywheel thing which the starter motor cogs on it?
They are all tight.
Any other bolts in there?? I couldn't see any.

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 5:38 pm 
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smithy_1 wrote:
Is that the 4 bolts on the flywheel thing which the starter motor cogs on it?
They are all tight.
Any other bolts in there?? I couldn't see any.
Yes they are the ones. Looks more ominous for you then.

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 6:00 pm 
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ok - it is what it is.
can you put in new big end bearings with engine in?
medium or humungus job?
i have done the hg ok, and am confident, but don't want to start something i shouldn't or can't do at home

 

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Posted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 12:59 pm 
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Crank has to come out of the engine to get to the upper half bearings which means the engine has to come out. Trying to do it with the engine in the car is asking for trouble, not to mention it will proabably take much longer than if you just yanked yhe engine out.
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Posted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 1:39 pm 
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Thanks xcabbi,
I was reading the workshop manual last night & the procedure in there for big end replacement suggests crank stays in, and you can remove the upper half bearings by rotating crank with ONE bearing unbolted, & the upper half will rotate itself out. You then rotate the new one back in the reverse direction.

This all souds good in theory, but does it work? Has anyone done it?
Sounds easier than crank out.

 

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Posted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 1:49 pm 
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when u ran it up on stands was the front of the car elevated at all?

when i park my car on a slight hill the back of the crank slaps in the sump oil at the back of the motor

 

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Posted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 1:54 pm 
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regie,
it was elevated, but unfortunately for me, the sound is there when it's dead flat as well

 

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Posted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 2:20 pm 
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Grab the front pulley and see how much end float she has. If it is excessive then the chain might be rubbing on the timing case.

 

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Posted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 2:26 pm 
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thanks twason,
no end float discernible

has anyone changed bearings with crank in?

 

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Posted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 6:30 pm 
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smithy_1 wrote:
thanks twason,
no end float discernible

has anyone changed bearings with crank in?


you may as well pull the engine out and give her a fresh rebuild mate..

 

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