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Bigger cam from Tighe, Camtech, Crescent, Surecam, Wade? 

 

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Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 4:38 pm 
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FAST-XR. wrote:
does the dev 5 have too much duration for a boosted setup?

if you are planning on changing cams when it gets blown, id change it on your current setup to satisy yourself that the cam was/wasnt the problem, then go ahead with the boost... even though you will be underpowered till you go ahead with the boost....


That's the thing ...a couple of guys over here are running DEV 5 cams in their boosted Falcons with no probs ...and pulling huge no's!

If you ask Fritzz (500+ rwhp Turbo EL with DEV 5 cam) ...he will tell you that the DEV 5 is actually quite a small cam with a high lift, but very little overlap ...a very good street cam in his opinion.

He has always said I will have NO probs running this cam with boost ...and get more power for less psi.

 

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Hot Chilli Red EL XR6, 5-spd, JMM DEV 5 enhanced (161 rwkw custom tuned), Eliminator Switch Chip, 18" BA GTP rims, Pedders Superlows, BA XR6 badges, BA Sunroof, Pioneer Stereo, Splits, 6x9's, 10" sub, 700W 6-ch Viper amp.
QUARTER MILE PB: currently 14.590 @ 96.00 mph ...BOOST AHEAD!!

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Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 7:01 pm 
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Today i fitted a 1521a Wade cam, but ground with 112 degree lobe centres, and its f**k lumpy, cranky....misfires at part throttle even with a tuned chip, so gonna get it retuned soon.

Idle vid, though its hard to pickup the sound

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DnxPXdmtkro[/youtube]
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Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 11:47 pm 
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Thats hot, i like it.

Whats it perform like compared to my cam?

 

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Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 12:15 am 
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Did Wade tell you what your intake centreline is ground to? Are you running any cam advance? It looks like the 1521a ground on 114 LSA has an ICL of 109 degrees, I would advance this to 106-107, and you should see a noticable improvement in idle and low end drivability.

 

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Last edited by Jaysen on Fri Nov 14, 2008 12:18 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 12:18 am 
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PIMP_LTD wrote:
Thats hot, i like it.

Whats it perform like compared to my cam?


i wont know till i get it tuned in a few weeks, its misfiring/spluttering pretty bad at most revs, probably cause im running a tune designed for another cam i dunno?

But i f**k love the idle!!
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Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 12:23 am 
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Jaysen wrote:
Did Wade tell you what your intake centreline is ground to? Are you running any cam advance? It looks like the 1521a ground on 114 LSA has an ICL of 109 degrees, I would advance this to 106-107, and you should see a noticable improvement in idle and low end drivability.


im going to dial it in tommorrow. the spec sheet says..

"cam lift TDC"...... 084

so i dial in 84 thou lift at the rocker arm @ TDC......does that sound right? Every other cam ive had has been around 50 thou lift
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Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 12:37 am 
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they are telling you to put a bit of advance in I would assume by these numbers, but keep in mind that when it comes of the ramps and on to the flank, the cam lift rises rapidly. Just make sure that you are actually dialling it in to TDC, as I normally found that the 6 cyl harmonic balancers were out by a couple of degrees (you would deflect too if you had to drive all those ancilaries up to 5700rpm). When you get it right, dont go bezerk because you cant get it at the same spot when you double check your measurements. It can be frustrating, hard to do repeatably, but trust your first measurements, take the car for a drive, and adjust further if necessary.

 

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Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 12:47 am 
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Cheers, yeah the balancer was replaced few months ago.... nearly to the detriment of the crankshaft. I checked if it read true TDC so i assume it should still be able to be trusted

One more question, the balancer bolt thread is not the best, so was thinking of pulling out all the spark plugs to put less stress on the bolt when turning the motor, but was wondering if i only have to take out one or two plugs..... so which ones would be on the compression stroke @ TDC when measuring at number one intake rocker arm

hope i havnt confused you!!
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Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 12:54 am 
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if you leave #6 spark plug in, then as you bring it up on to compression and it approches TDC, you will notice your EX valve closing and the rocking sequence will occur, this is when you should measure your IN lobe lift. BTW if it were me, I would check the balancer again just to be sure, even if it is only a couple of months old.

 

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Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 12:30 pm 
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Jaysen you were right (not that i thought youd be wrong lol), the cam had to be advanced 1 degree only, but it smoothed out the idle a little, and isnt as cranky at low rpms like it was before.

Got the same measurments 4 times so im confident its how its supposed to be

but f**k it needs a tune bad..... trip meter shows 48L/100km..... and the way it emptied the tank yesterday i believe it too !!!
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Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 11:30 pm 
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So your ICL should be somewhere around 107 "crank" deg ATDC, and if its not running out of top end, you will probably notice a bit more of an improvement with another half to one (1-2 crank degrees) advance. This will help with your manifold vac @ idle and low throttle positions for drivability. If you want to reclaim a little bit more drivability and economy, check out the "Tuning with the Moates J3 chip" thread in the ECU forum. They DO work (Im also using the Moates gear) and Galapogos01 has had some good success with the same cam as you on his auto EF, and its fairly cheap to do as well.

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 9:03 am 
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yeah unless someone can tune it for me in 'real time' i gotta keep going back to ChipTorque

i removed the chip to see if it was the cause of all the misfiring and spluttering, and the car wouldnt run at all lol
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Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 9:44 am 
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The RT hardware from Moates will set you back about $400, and if you want to burn your own chips, it will be about another $200, this pays itself off pretty quick if you need to keep going back to someone else to tune the car all the time

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 12:20 pm 
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Just to chip in here:

RT helps with getting a good result quicker, and this is essential when youre paying a tuner $200/hr, but its not necessary if you are patient. With the right tools (WB02) and a bit of knowhow you can start from the ChipTorque tune and keep tweaking until you have solved the problem. Given this solution is only $190 you are already cheaper than an hour of Lachlans time.

Its amazing that there is a 2nd hand ChipTorque going for $200 on here when you can get a programmer for less!!! People have been asking for this stuff for ages and now that its finally here they are too scared to use it.

Jason
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Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 12:44 pm 
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galapogos01 wrote:
People have been asking for this stuff for ages and now that its finally here they are too scared to use it.


thats basicially sums it up

people say the car is only as good as its tune, so i'd hate to know what results i'd get if i was let loose tuning my own car :oops:

there must be a stack of info to take in before i could do a better job than what im currently paying someone else to do....
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