Fordmods Logo

braking with 17" rims 

 

Page 1 of 2 [ 18 posts ] Go to page 1, 2  Next

 
 Post subject: braking with 17" rims
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 11:31 am 
Getting Side Ways
Offline
User avatar

Age: 40

Posts: 1807

Joined: 6th Feb 2006

Location: CENTRAL
VIC, Australia

i recenty brought a 92 EB drove it home (no plates or reg) put her in the shed and gave her a tart up and put a set of 17" rims under her, i dont remember what the brakes were like when i drove it home with the stock 14" rims, now she's a daily driver she's hard to pull up the pedal is quite hard, i only notice this after driving a mates ef on the weekend at the first stop i nearly put us both out the windscreen, would the larger diameter wheels alter the brake proformance like this ???
Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 12:28 pm 
Fordmods Junkie
Offline
User avatar

Age: 38

Posts: 1000491

Joined: 6th Nov 2004

Gallery: 2 images

Ride: AUXR6 HP With Ducati SupA Bike!

Location: Perth
WA, Australia

the should actually IMPROVE the performance

as teh bigger rims and open design will allow more air to the brake rotors
which in tunr will help stop brake fade...
i would suggest a brake fluid flush and change the front pads and check the rears

 

_________________

RIP SCOTT

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 12:41 pm 
Getting Side Ways
Offline

Age: 36

Posts: 9453

Joined: 9th Nov 2004

Gallery: 4 images

Ride: Fordrunner 5.0 Turbo

Location: Wollongong
NSW, Australia

Maybe not. Are the 17's heavier or lighter than what you had on there before? If they're heavier then that would affect it a little but not enough to be like that.

But yeah its more than likely your fluid is old and needs to be changed. Most people don't realise that break fluid absorbs the moisture from the air over time and needs to be replaced less than every 12 months. While your doing that you might as well pull the calipers apart and give them a bit of a back yardy reco so they don't stick and drag the pads as that can give you a hard pedal too. Once you've done that i bet my left nut that you could outbreak your mates ef.
Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 5:28 pm 
Getting Side Ways
Offline
User avatar

Age: 31

Posts: 11103

Joined: 15th Nov 2004

Ride: AU III XR8 Pursuit 250 ute

Location: Hobart
TAS, Australia

Usually when you go larger wheels you go tyres with smaller walls so it evens things out as the overall diamter stays the same in that sense!

 

_________________

Heaps of performance EF/L parts for sale, including supercharged VCT motor!

2002 Ford AU Series III Falcon XR8 Pursuit 250 ute - 5.6L of V8 Windsor!

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 6:02 pm 
Tyre Shredder
Offline
User avatar

Age: 51

Posts: 377

Joined: 22nd May 2005

Gallery: 7 images

Ride: NF Fairlane V8

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

If your brakes work but are just really hard to apply, then you'd better check the booster out.
Check the vac line and booster casing for cracks or leaks first.

If they're soft and spongy then it's probably air or contaminated fluid, but a stiff pedal is usually the booster.. :cry:

 

_________________

The TORQUE Monster project begins!

Pic's, details and all the yummy stuff:
http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=22693

"There's no replacement for displacement!"

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 6:26 pm 
Getting Side Ways
Offline
User avatar

Age: 40

Posts: 1807

Joined: 6th Feb 2006

Location: CENTRAL
VIC, Australia

when i broght it (dec 05) the previous owner had just had new front rotors and pads fitted, i swaped the rear rotors for some near new ones i had in the shed and replaced the pads, the fluid didnt look like it had done much work, to better explain the feeling of the pedal i would say if feels as if the rotors are covered in grease sort of seems like theres is plenty of pressure on the pads but the pads have no grip on the rotor, if that makes sence or is any help
Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 6:33 pm 
Parts Gopher
Offline

Age: 38

Posts: 60

Joined: 11th Oct 2005

Ride: falcon

Location: Mt Gambier
SA, Australia

if it has abs, it will feel different to the ef pedal. i have an ef which stops great, the ed i had b4 that had abs and the pedal was "squishier"!

 

_________________

i cant be bothered thinking of something to write here

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 6:34 pm 
Oompa Loompa
Offline

Posts: 39

Joined: 23rd Nov 2004

Location: townsville
QLD, Australia

Could just be pads and rotors bedding in go for a good drive with plenty of hard braking (make sure no ones in front of tho) and see if it gets better. The easiest way to check the booster is to stop the engine ( car parked) pump the brake pedal a few times it should get harder as the any vacum left in the system is used up. Then push on the brake pedal reasonable hard and start the engine the pedal should drop, if it doesn't then get the booster and vacum system checked out.
Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 6:37 pm 
Getting Side Ways
Offline
User avatar

Age: 40

Posts: 1807

Joined: 6th Feb 2006

Location: CENTRAL
VIC, Australia

i have checked for vaccum leaks and looked over the pads, calipers, lines and booster for problems but its nothing obvious, i might go with the fliud change and give the calipers backyard reco see how she stops then, if that dont work what pads and rotor combo's work best without spending a s**t amount
Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 6:38 pm 
Getting Side Ways
Offline
User avatar

Age: 40

Posts: 1807

Joined: 6th Feb 2006

Location: CENTRAL
VIC, Australia

no abs aboard
Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 6:51 pm 
Getting Side Ways
Offline
User avatar

Age: 40

Posts: 1807

Joined: 6th Feb 2006

Location: CENTRAL
VIC, Australia

macca13 wrote:
Could just be pads and rotors bedding in go for a good drive with plenty of hard braking (make sure no ones in front of tho) and see if it gets better. The easiest way to check the booster is to stop the engine ( car parked) pump the brake pedal a few times it should get harder as the any vacum left in the system is used up. Then push on the brake pedal reasonable hard and start the engine the pedal should drop, if it doesn't then get the booster and vacum system checked out.
i bedded them in quick then folowing day i drove from bendigo to meribitt at mostly 170 kph+ (7am on a sunday:)) trust me mate she's done plenty of hard braking,
Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 9:44 pm 
Tyre Shredder
Offline

Age: 31

Posts: 347

Joined: 28th Nov 2004

Ride: XF Wagon

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

G'day

I dont care how much braking you do if you have metallised pads they wont stop to well on a standard rotar. Some of the cheap brands dont stop anywhere near good enough and make it feel like it has grease on the discs.

I know this cause i've just been through it all on the rear of mine.

Cheers

 

_________________

If its too loud your too old!!!!!!!!!!!!

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 12:10 am 
Getting Side Ways
Offline
User avatar

Age: 40

Posts: 1807

Joined: 6th Feb 2006

Location: CENTRAL
VIC, Australia

Pane wrote:
G'day

I dont care how much braking you do if you have metallised pads they wont stop to well on a standard rotar. Some of the cheap brands dont stop anywhere near good enough and make it feel like it has grease on the discs.

I know this cause i've just been through it all on the rear of mine.

Cheers
linelockers is what fried yours i am guessing? next weekend i am going to fit some bendix pads with slotted rotors, i plan to get 180rkws plus so i want the brakes to proform excelent first.
Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 9:02 am 
Getting Side Ways
Offline

Age: 35

Posts: 533

Joined: 12th Jan 2005

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

macca13 wrote:
Could just be pads and rotors bedding in go for a good drive with plenty of hard braking (make sure no ones in front of tho) and see if it gets better. The easiest way to check the booster is to stop the engine ( car parked) pump the brake pedal a few times it should get harder as the any vacum left in the system is used up. Then push on the brake pedal reasonable hard and start the engine the pedal should drop, if it doesn't then get the booster and vacum system checked out.


Nice advice. How are you going to pay out everyone who stuffs up a perfectly good set of brake pads because they took your advice?

You NEVER EVER bed in brakes by applying the brakes as hard as you can. The new pads have to wear to the contours in the disc, even if the discs are new or have just been machined.

Because you surface of the pad and disc don't mate well, most of the braking is only done on the area of the pad that rubs against the high points of the disc and vice versa. That means that maybe only 10% of the pad migh actually be doing its job simply because the rest of the pad isn't touching the disc.

Because of that, braking hard to bed pads in results in you burning the pad compound. Because not all of the pad's being used, you don't notice any fade because the gasses produced by the burning compound have an avenue of escape. It can take a good 5000km to wear off the burnt bits of the pad to get back down to good, usable compound.

Pads that don't stop the car well with good pressure available are simply s**t pads. Not pads that are in need of bedding in.

Bedding pads in with hard braking also drastically increases the changes of warped discs if you don't let them cool down evenly. So you stuff up a nice set of pads, and a nice set of discs. Wonderful.
Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 9:24 am 
Oompa Loompa
Offline

Posts: 39

Joined: 23rd Nov 2004

Location: townsville
QLD, Australia

unclewoja wrote:
macca13 wrote:
Could just be pads and rotors bedding in go for a good drive with plenty of hard braking (make sure no ones in front of tho) and see if it gets better. The easiest way to check the booster is to stop the engine ( car parked) pump the brake pedal a few times it should get harder as the any vacum left in the system is used up. Then push on the brake pedal reasonable hard and start the engine the pedal should drop, if it doesn't then get the booster and vacum system checked out.


Nice advice. How are you going to pay out everyone who stuffs up a perfectly good set of brake pads because they took your advice?

You NEVER EVER bed in brakes by applying the brakes as hard as you can. The new pads have to wear to the contours in the disc, even if the discs are new or have just been machined.

Because you surface of the pad and disc don't mate well, most of the braking is only done on the area of the pad that rubs against the high points of the disc and vice versa. That means that maybe only 10% of the pad migh actually be doing its job simply because the rest of the pad isn't touching the disc.

Because of that, braking hard to bed pads in results in you burning the pad compound. Because not all of the pad's being used, you don't notice any fade because the gasses produced by the burning compound have an avenue of escape. It can take a good 5000km to wear off the burnt bits of the pad to get back down to good, usable compound.

Pads that don't stop the car well with good pressure available are simply s**t pads. Not pads that are in need of bedding in.

Bedding pads in with hard braking also drastically increases the changes of warped discs if you don't let them cool down evenly. So you stuff up a nice set of pads, and a nice set of discs. Wonderful.


Funny this is how I have bedded in every set of pads I have changed and have not stuffed up a set yet but I have had trouble with people going to softly and glazing them. Maybe we have different idea's of hard braking.
Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:
Sort by  
 Page 1 of 2  [ 18 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 23 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

 

 

It is currently Fri Dec 15, 2017 12:09 pm All times are UTC + 11 hours

 

 

(c)2014 Total Web Solutions Australia - Australian Web Hosting and Domain Names