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| twase |
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Has anyone had any success removing exhaust manifold studs from the head where there broken flush or below the head?
If so then how, I am tempted to drill them and use an easy-out. Cheers TW.
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
if they are flush with the head you can weld a nut on the end with a MIG the heat will help loosen the stud as well.
if below the head you'll have to drill it out. get a reveres drill bit as some times the bit will pick up on the stud, using a reveres bit it may just unscrew the stud for you, instead of screwing it in more. if it's still in there after you drill it get some easy out. but not the screw type one. you can get a tapered 4 sided one that needs to be tapped in with a small hammer. I've found these to work better |
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| twase |
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tickford_6 wrote: if they are flush with the head you can weld a nut on the end with a MIG the heat will help loosen the stud as well.
if below the head you'll have to drill it out. get a reveres drill bit as some times the bit will pick up on the stud, using a reveres bit it may just unscrew the stud for you, instead of screwing it in more. if it's still in there after you drill it get some easy out. but not the screw type one. you can get a tapered 4 sided one that needs to be tapped in with a small hammer. I've found these to work better OK, sound feasible then. Are the reverse drill and 4 sided Easy out available from local hardware stores or are they specialty store ones? Cheers TW.
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
all of tool shops should have them...
i get mine from NQ tool suplies. not sure the names from where you are but you get the idea |
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| Andrew J |
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Yep, the four sided ones are definately easier to use. But of they snap, they will never come out. At least you can get a twisting easy out back out.... Id never use a square one if the bolt was hard! But generally, if they snapped, chances are it wont twist out.... Something snapped it in the first place!
_________________ The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
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| twase |
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Well there out, 5 out of the 6 were easy, the 6th would have also been easy if I had known.
I drilled a 1/8 hole in each stud using a normal drill. 3 out of the 6 the studs wound into the hole deeper. Using a exolite allen key driver, I bash the key into the hole and wound them out. The first one I did siezed in the hole so for the next 5, I moved them back an forth an eighth of a turn at a time and they came out easy. The first one I could not get it to move even though it was one of the 3 that moved to the bottom of the hole when drilling.  I tried heat but it still would not move.  Eventually the allen key broke of flush so I drilled small holes around it to free the key and then drilled it out and hellicoiled it.
Cheers TW.
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
$1.50 for a reveres drill bit would have saved alot of time
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| twase |
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tickford_6 wrote: $1.50 for a reveres drill bit would have saved alot of time
In my case I think it may have of cost time, the feeling I got is that the stud need to go further in before coming out in increments. All the studs were free to go down and up until they got to the original position thats where they got tight. Cheers TW.
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| station-rat |
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What you guy's need is a RIDGID Brand Screw Extractor set.
Almost impossible to break Station-rat 
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| Pulco |
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station-rat wrote: What you guy's need is a RIDGID Brand Screw Extractor set.
Almost impossible to break Station-rat not the word almost, but still breakable! dont know how many times ive broken "unbreakable" screw extractors
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