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 Post subject: cam for i6
Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2005 3:06 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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hey guys

im after a cam for my fairmont

ive read a little bout them and wondering which ones you all think are worth looking at!

and wat else is needed/involved to make the cam work properly in my motor, and also for those who have done it, wat kind of $$ am i looking at?

the car is mostly stock except for extractors and exhaust, and not much else is guna be done too it, so im not looking for a some huge a** cam, just something to provide a little more power!

Cheers!

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2005 3:13 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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with ur setup a stage 2 cam of any sort.
i have the wade stage 2 (1004@112) and its fine and very cheap.

u could also try crow, surecam and stuff like that. but u pay more/
for a larger cam u need a ported head and chip. which is alot of money :D
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Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2005 3:39 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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yea im not interested in doing much work to the motor at the moment as there is nothing wrong with it

just would like a little more grunt

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2005 4:51 pm 
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I think you should go for the 1004-114 rather than 112 - just a little bit better suited to the Auto.

Alternatively try their new grind, 1604 or whatever it is.

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2005 8:30 pm 
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have a look at jim mocks DEV3hl cam it might do all u want
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Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2005 9:47 pm 
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because you have the tickford engine in your fairmont i don't recomend the wade stage 2 cam.
my self and a few other members have found the hard way that the wade 2 cam doesn't work in the tickford engines..
if you don't have a tickford engine go for the wade
or
try one of the crow cams.

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 12:23 am 
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XR heads only diffrence is within the exhaust valve and SLIGHT cleaning of the exhaust port. Everyother aspect of the XR head is the same. A worked stock head will run rings arround a stock XR head.

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 8:24 am 
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None the less I would recommend the wade 1604 cam.
Do a search of the forum, look for 'product review: wade 1604' You will find a full review. Then go to:

www.wadecams.com

Installing a cam will take about 3-4 hours and 2-3 for a mechanic.

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 10:33 am 
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on the topic of cams, if iwas gettin a stage 2 crow cam is there anything else at al i would have to to my engine?, just askin coz i talked to a guy, i think at OGs Speed shop, and he said i would need a double chain and sproket, also i keep hearing about vernier cam gear and 'shims?' what are these, do i need them and how much extra are they?

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 4:23 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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EBeast wrote:
on the topic of cams, if iwas gettin a stage 2 crow cam is there anything else at al i would have to to my engine?, just askin coz i talked to a guy, i think at OGs Speed shop, and he said i would need a double chain and sproket, also i keep hearing about vernier cam gear and 'shims?' what are these, do i need them and how much extra are they?



yea? like is any of that gear also required, i know shims are, but what about the rest?

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 11:11 pm 
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Ok.
A venier gear or 'sproket' is, used to advance or retard the timing of the cam.

The doubble chain is two links appart. The O.G speed shop will sell you a race (or was it performance?) timing kit for your overhead cam. In addition to the two link chain, there are 2 cogs (or sprokets) supplied in a kit which are identical to one another and this is what the guy from the OG shop is on about. IIIRC the kit is 200ish. This is a optional but recommended.

Cams are bought by people much as you and I. We can choose to buy 're-grinds'. These are old cams which have had there profiles changed and this is done by machining the old cam. But the new 're-grind' cams are smaller than the origional ones that were on the factory vehical and thus do not fit the existing plugs or 'valves' exactly. Shims are used to fill this size descrepancy to makeyour regrind cam work properly. These cost roughly 60 to 120ish IIRC and are nessasery (sp?) if you buy a regrind and these are done on a changover basis.

Instead of worrying about regrinds or shims you can purchase a new cam outright. There are many profiles avaliable. Trust me, you will want a stage two.
This way you will keep your old cam (which is good incase you dont like your new cam).
On a final not: research your camshaft choice carefully as cams are not all peaches and cream. They take about a thousand k's to adjust to the computer. Poorly choosen or brand new cams have a tendancy to run very rough.

This is all I know about cams.

 

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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 12:57 am 
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ok cool! that does help a fair bit!

i was thinking of a regrind cause of the price, but once u lay is all out it aint really that much cheaper!

this does help alot!

i will let know wat goes on!

Cheers

 

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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 1:03 am 
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Nah, your just going to need the Cam + Shims (plus lifter seals probably) for a regrind.
Your looking at under $200 usually.

 

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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 2:31 am 
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yeah, thanks heaps. that was a greeat help.

 

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1993 EBII GLI, IT'S PERFORMANCE Stage 3 engine,
XH Snorkel, K+N panel, Pacie 4480, High flow cat,
2.5" Lukey cat back system. Monroe GT Gas shocks + struts.

just dyno'd at 140.9RWKW

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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 11:23 am 
Getting Side Ways
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No worries.

 

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