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| TimmyA |
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Hello,
Wanting to buy a wade 1636 cam... couple of questions for you guys out there who have done it... * Is a vernier gear absolutely crucial? * Is it possible for the vernier gears like the one pictured to have the bolts come loose? Attachment: 9cd9_1.JPG [ 15.05 KiB | Viewed 160 times ] * If they can come loose (as i imagine that'd be bad?) can you buy multi keyed ones instead? * Lastly in regards to dialling in... They measurements wade gave me for dialling in are "lift @ TDC on no. 1 intake of 0.054" for the 1636 cam" where would this be measured to? off the top of the cam? or off the top of the valve stem? also if its measured off the top of the cam, which side of the lobe would I be measuring to? Bear with me as I have never done any of this sort of thing before and as such I am very new to understanding what the hell is going on in regards to cam details... Thanks, Tim
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| alfy |
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well im putting in a CMS 3 cam with no vernier gear, will be interesting to see what happens lol
_________________ 2021 V6 Manual Amarok - 245kw/750nm - many goodies |
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| phongus |
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Vernier gear isn't really required for the car to run with the aftermarket cam...though in saying that, you won't get the full potential out of the cam if you don't dial it on properly.
When my cam was dialed in with the help of a member, he placed the dial indicator so that the lift was read from the rocker arm going up and down at TDC. I don't remember the whole procedure, since I haven't touched it since then. Also, the bolts on my vernier gear haven't moved...I will probably check again some time this week if I can be bothered and get back to you on that. I ran my car without dialing in the cam for a while just fine...though after dialing the cam in, I could definitely feel the power difference from mid to top range (Wade 1673) Hope that helps. phong =P~ EDIT:...made a boo boo.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| TimmyA |
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cheers for the info guys... just interesting to see what different people have done...
phong... the little (the look little) bolts in the gear... do they have a torque specification that you remember tightening them to? (ie not too loose to damage anything but not to tight to damage bolts or gear) or do you just tighten them as much as humanly possible... as i really wouldn't like to find out what happens if they come loose... If i could would really sooner a multi keyed gear... cheers guys... keep the info coming...
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| Steady ED |
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Lift is off the rocker tip, so valve lift.
Don't NEED a vernier, if you are iffy on it, I wouldn't install it, check the cam with the stock gear and see how far off it is. If it's miles off then do the vernier. When dialling it in, a) make sure your balancer hasn't slipped and b) take the slack out of the timing chain tensioner. You don't tighten the allen bolts on the vernier too much, you'll strip them, they are small. From memory my rollmaster one came with torque specs, I can't remember what they are. I just had them 'tight enough' if you know what I mean haha I had a vernier on 2 different cars for about 100,000kms total, no loktite on the allen bolts, just tightened when installed and never touched again. Never had an issue.
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| TimmyA |
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Thats probably not a bad idea... Locktite would keep them in place hey?
Yeah ok sounds good... So you pretty much dial it in before you bolt all the overhead gear back down? Yeah the one pictured is a rollmaster one... Never heard of them... They are a good brand? Thanks, Tim
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| phongus |
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timmytimtim wrote: Thats probably not a bad idea... Locktite would keep them in place hey? Yeah ok sounds good... So you pretty much dial it in before you bolt all the overhead gear back down? Yeah the one pictured is a rollmaster one... Never heard of them... They are a good brand? Thanks, Tim Rollmaster is all good. most people run it. Loctite might ease your mind if you are worried about the gear slipping No, you dial the cam in with everything bolted and ready to go, that's the way we got it done on my car, so if there is another way I am not sure. phong =P~
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| Steady ED |
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timmytimtim wrote: So you pretty much dial it in before you bolt all the overhead gear back down? Nah nah sorry, bolt it all back down, the point I was making was that you don't necessarily NEED an adjustable cam gear if you are just going to the cam grinders specs. It might be already spot on, which means the vernier would be useless unless you are going to play with it.
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| TimmyA |
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oh ok then cheers...
There is cheap vernier gear on ebay atm... I might get it (seeing its cheap) andif if goes in need first time then yeah the hell with it... If not i'll have to change it over... Assuming if you loosen the time chain off the gear will come of the chin easy enough... No troubles resetting it either as dad is a ford mechanic and I can get all the tools to get it out and reset the mechanism... Thanks for all the advice... Tim
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| FordFairmont |
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Posts: 6113 Joined: 8th May 2007 |
after you fit the vernier gear and reset the chain tensioner, take the car for a drive first to get oil pressure back into the tensioner before dialling the cam in. I know everytime i reset the tensioner it takes a few km's before the chain tightens up properly (ie: chain stops slapping)
Ive found with regrinds, they tend to be out more than billets. Every billet ive had has only been out by 1 degree, but one regrind i had was out by 4 degrees And yeah Rollmaster is a decent brand, it is wise to use blue (medium strength) thread locker on the allen keys, they dont seem to move around at all really. Even just one allen key bolt done up is strong enough to hold the vernier in place as your turning the motor over by hand when you dial the cam in. Dont do the allen key bolts up too tight like i did, or the brass washer will bend into a U shape. Just do them up firmly, without being silly |
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| TimmyA |
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I bought a billet off ebay that hadn't been used... So i'll send that and get it ground...
Thanks for the tips...
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