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Can you get sump off engine in car EL 6cyl? 

 

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Posted: Thu Dec 21, 2006 9:28 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: Falcon

Location: Adelaide
SA, Australia

your also looking in the area of the timing chain tensioner, which is very prone to leaking in these engines.

 

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Posted: Thu Dec 21, 2006 11:40 am 
Oompa Loompa
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Location: keysborough
VIC, Australia

The higher bolt I mentioned, the one the alternator bracket hangs off, is adjacent to TC tensioner..


but the other one the 4 oclock bolt on the water pump, although its about half an inch from timing case, is not near TC tensioner..

I got to tel you, this car continues not to impress, in areas like oil leaks, especially,just seem endemic,
and electrics issues, second.

Admittedly, its a high kms unit, but seems to have been well serviced in some areas...
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Posted: Thu Dec 21, 2006 9:29 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: 93 ED sedan

Power: 161 rwkw

Location: Rockhampton
QLD, Australia

To remove sump in car, jack up car to good height to get under it nicely, not too cramped, remove the engine to gearbox supports, remove engine mount bolts at the K-frame, support the engine at the bellhousing, lifting the engine about 1/2", loosen the 10mm headed bolt at the top of the steering shaft next to firewall, remove the 10mm headed bolt at the uni-joint on the steering rack, and slide the shaft up, the shaft can only go in & out one way, so the steering wheel will be straight when back together.
Disconnect the power steering switch( same as fuel injector connector), remove front wheels, remove the lower shockie bolts in the lower control arms, remove auto trans cooler pipe retaining bolts ( 2 of i think, at front of K-frame), remove bolt for retaining the high pressure power steering hose, there are 6 nuts to undo for the K-frame, 4 from up top, i think they are 19mm, and 2 at the front of K-frame at each side, be careful, the K-frame will drop, so contain the rate of fall with a jack, because you'll need it to put it back up. Now you can remove the sump ( drain oil first ). Make sure all gasket surfaces are clean. Use contact cement to apply the gasket, it won't let it slip & slide like silicone does when you refit the sump.
Hope this helps you out, last count i'd done was around the 50 to 60 mark.
Haven't done any for awhile now, thank christ.

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 4:43 am 
Oompa Loompa
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Location: keysborough
VIC, Australia

Thank-Christ is right...a last look revealed oil leak isnt from sump gasket, even though sump gasket is rock-hard...

first seemed like bolts on TC or Water-pump ( why do WP bolts mostly have wet oil inside on their threads??? but now is revealed as oil is sky-diving from above on underneath of t-chain tensioner boss..
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