I just cleaned mine with carby cleaner and reset the ecu and its better, not sure which thing made it go better, the clean or the reset, nevertheless im buying a new one

the o2 sensor wont have any effect on performance, its only there to adjust fuel in closed loop mode which is idle and light cruising, so only advantages are better idle and better fuel consumption when cruising ....

So it was the reset that worked? It also starts quicker. Will replace it next week

I replaced the oxygen sensor on my EL on Friday...Got a VDO 3 wire sensor off ebay for $59 posted.
After I put it on the car I disconnected the battery to reset the codes as this is what I was told I should do. Been driving it around quite a bit since then and I've noticed it has a bit more low end power and the fuel economy seems to be better. Pretty happy with it so far.

post the old one to EF_wanabe so he can polish it and play with it

The computer stores codes as history and current codes, meaning that if it's throws a code months ago and no one clears it it'll still be there. Best bet it to, before replacing anything, check and note the codes, clear them, drive it and recheck for codes, unless it's a very intermittent code it should point you in the right direction.
But just cos the code is at the sensor remember cause and effect. People forget to read what the ecu it telling you and just read what it says.

Late model stuff with freeze frame data, you shouldn't clear the codes until you are done with the freeze frame data, as clearing the codes also clears the freeze frame.

We are talking el tho.
Slightly off topic anyone have/ used the coda diagnostic bench on can2 cars. Awesome bit of gear.

What sort of car are we talking about? An E series?

There is the two test modes KOEO and KOER (Key On Engine Off - Key On Engine Running)

Memory codes only happen in KOEO tests and come out after the live codes, memory codes are erased by stopping the test midway through interrogating the EEC computer. Disconnecting the battery, maybe? But seems like a hard way of doing it as you'll lose all your clocks and CD player settings and all... Just stop the test midway and the codes are erased...

HEGO codes will not be memory codes as they only come out in a KOER test. The hego will always display a code unless it is warmed prior to testing. This is achieved by firstly having the engine at operating temp and then holding the rpm to 2000 for about a minute or two before testing, if this isn't done the HEGO physically isn't hot enough to read within tolerances and causes the too lean (I think?) error...

And I agree with Pakrat's cause and effect, this is a thousand times worse on a modern car, chances are the problem has nothing to do with the error code, the error code came out as a result of 3 modules down the canbus system...

Cheers,
Tim

Yes we are, But don't pretend that BA on owners won't read it and that the basics to diagnostics carries through all cars.

cheers... Read though it and must have missed that...

The ba stuff i don't have much to do with being a back yard hobbiest... Used the old man's ford ids unit a couple of times, but more fixing the ids unit rather than fixing a car with it...

But you're right, the bassis applies to diagnostics everywhere... Modern stuff they've managed to over complicate though...