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| ILLaViTaR |
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Hey guys I just replaced the distributor/plugs/leads/cap/rotor/coil on my EBII fairmont I6 and when I went to start it the split second it went to fire up there was a massive pop/backfiring like noise so I instantly stopped cranking and smelled burning from around the distributor/coil.
I'm certain everything is connected properly so I can only think I put the new dizzy in wrong. I turned the crank to TDC, took out the old dizzy, put the new one in with the rotor in the exact same position. Then I rotated the crank to approx 12-14 degrees BTDC and pointed the rotor towards cyl no1 lead on the dizzy cap, which is what I was recommended for lpg. When it backfired the rear rocker breather hose blew off the lpg mixer and I smelled the burning/smoke like smell (like burning electricals), I swear all the wiring is correct including the earth leads on the lower coil bolt and the thermostat housing loom/bolts to block I was expecting it to run lumpy and rough but it's backfiring before it can even actually kick over, any ideas on what I've done here lol? Last edited by ILLaViTaR on Fri Jul 13, 2012 9:34 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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| CPOCSM |
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If a falcon is the same as a mini, if you turn the crank one full rotation you will be 180 degrees out. A mini will still run but very very badly which gets you into the thinking you have it out 180 degrees. Just food for thought as I avoid everything electrical like the plague...you might have to get someone on a timing light and sort it. I drove my mini for months, accepting this was the norm and put up with it until someone pointed it out to me - car went like a scalded cat once I turned the dizzy around!!!
 Hope this helps...good luck |
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| ILLaViTaR |
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Hey I made sure air was coming out the spark plug hole (piston is coming back up) so it shouldn't be 180 degrees out? I'm gonna go work on it now check tdc/dizzy cap and hopefully attempt another crank. I'm hoping it's not any electrical burning, the pop sounded closer to a spark than a backfire but then again the rocker breather hose on the mixer had blown straight off (I had it very tight too) so it must've backfired I guess. I'm just hoping it's not shorting, I'm kind've nervous to turn the key again haha.
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| Pakrat |
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Make sure you're leads are right, cap on right ect
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| ILLaViTaR |
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I moved the dizzy around 180 degrees, attempted to start it again and around 5 seconds into cranking there was a massive pop/crackle and a burst of smoke shot up from under the manifold, the smell is behind the distributor, I'm pretty sure it's coming from the coil. The earth strap is on the bottom bolt of the coil so that's not the problem, it's a newish bosch coil that came out of another EB II fairmont I had and looks slightly smaller and different but definitely worked fine in the other EB.
It doesn't make any sense! |
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| ILLaViTaR |
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Turns out the dizzy was right the first time, I don't think it's the dizzy, It's 180 deg out currently so I'm gonna go out and swap it all back. The problem is from the coil area, the car is cranking but not kicking over, it's taking 5-10 seconds to crank too which is longer than usual, then there's the massive pop/crackle and the smoke shoots up naturally I instantly stop cranking.
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| cjh |
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Maybe the brushes are really worn in the starter motor....they will make the noise you said.....plus the smoke and stuff.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| CPOCSM |
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I burnt my coil out on the XR8 when I removed the dizzy and put the wiring in wrong. I had to replace a coupling and one of the wires was touching the other - burnt out the ignition module and the coil. I cut corners in I didnt shield the wires correctly and it shorted on itself. A learning experience on my behalf...
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| ILLaViTaR |
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hmmm the smoke isn't streaming from anywhere, when the electrical sounding crackle/pop happens the smoke instantly comes out in a pulse exactly like an explosion, not something burning. The breather hose keeps blowing off every time it happens, I'd call it a backfire if only if the sound wasn't so electrical, there's no bass in it like a bang/backfire, it's like a spark/pop/crackle.
I've checked the wiring and it's all on correctly, unless I missed something around the throttle body/isc that could cause this? Pretty sure it's all correct anyway. I might get someone to try starting it again while I look at the manifold to see if I can see a spark or something, I really don't like the idea of it blowing up lol but im getting nowhere at this point, wish me luck haha. |
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| ILLaViTaR |
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Think it's AU engine time, fiddling with the dizzy again it struggled to slot in so I tapped it with a mallet, it didn't sit flush so pulled it out and noticed it didn't clear the manifold this time for some reason, that's because the whole hexagonal shaft/rod thing the dizzy slots into had seized itself to the dizzy!!!! I'm trying to unseize it at the moment (might have to remove the entire manifold for it to clear lol). Once I've managed to unseize it, will it just slot back into the block or has it broken off something requiring an engine out repair?
And by the way, who designed the ignition system on these cars? Was he an amputee or something? I don't think my hands have much skin left on them. |
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| razza01 |
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If you can, check when the dizzy is out that you haven't damaged the aux shaft when you tapped the distributor. Check the teeth on that and the dizzy. Good luck
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| TROYMAN |
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the shaft that has siezed to your dizzy is the oil pump drive shaft..
this has happened because you tried to force the dizzy in withought the pump shaft lining up with the dizzy shaft... |
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| ILLaViTaR |
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Hey thanks that's a relief, I was thinking I snapped the aux shaft or something. I can't separate it unless I remove the manifold (it won't clear with the shaft seized) not enough room for pliers either, I can pull it out enough to see the gear which is fine, the rotor button is turning along with the crank (relief haha) so it's all working correctly atm, situation is it's 99% on, there's like a .2mm gap between the distributor base and the block that I can just slip my fingernail through, which is the reason I pulled it up to reseat it flush and noticed I'd hammered the shaft into the thing, maybe the dizzy will run fine anyway, I can barely fit my fingernail through the space, I think the gear is 100% in and the 0.2mm gap or so is in the shaft slot in the dizzy.
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| ILLaViTaR |
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OK it must just the timing. I bumped it from like 13 to 16 degrees and it's trying to start (won't run) the crackle/smoke must've just been a backfire (not like any backfire I've ever heard) as it's not doing it anymore. My balancer definitely hasn't spun either, does 18-20 degrees sound right for lpg? I'll just fiddle with the dizzy I guess.
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| Pakrat |
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ILLaViTaR wrote: Think it's AU engine time, fiddling with the dizzy again it struggled to slot in so I tapped it with a mallet, it didn't sit flush so pulled it out and noticed it didn't clear the manifold this time for some reason, that's because the whole hexagonal shaft/rod thing the dizzy slots into had seized itself to the dizzy!!!! I'm trying to unseize it at the moment (might have to remove the entire manifold for it to clear lol). Once I've managed to unseize it, will it just slot back into the block or has it broken off something requiring an engine out repair? And by the way, who designed the ignition system on these cars? Was he an amputee or something? I don't think my hands have much skin left on them. Pretty sure ford designed the system. And it's not hard if you infact do everything properly. |
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