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Cold air Intake. looks effective. 

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2005 11:11 pm 
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fordman351 wrote:
Having the intake down low to the ground will probably pick up alot of road grime and gunk, having a re-washable filter would be a good investment.


Unlikely, as that's a lot heavier than the air. And since there'll be double intake (low one and stock one), it's unlikely that there will be enough suction to actually pull the dirt and that up, instead of getting just the lighter air that the engine needs.

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2005 11:55 pm 
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darn, clogging the air path by the looks of things.

Thats funny, just had a topic about "air box" on one of the treads.

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2005 9:45 am 
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Spork wrote:
Actually an Autospeed article proved that the EF airbox lid with its central pickup outflowed the EL-AU lid with its pickup at the end.

I agree with not putting the intake on the bumper. Have a look at an EL and you will see that only the lower intake feeds the radiator. The upper grille only directs air to the airbox, basically that entire grille is ram feeding your airbox, apart from the tickford snorkle I can't see much improvement there.


True, because of the trumpet that the EF lid has. But think about it, if you were an air molecule, would you enter the air box at the front, go all the way to the back, through the filter, then all the way up to the middle of the box, then try to fight your way into an air stream whilst doing a hard 180?

If you had a vertical pickup, not a horizontal pickup, with a trumpet on the intake, from the centre of the airbox, more air would travel through the entire area of the filter and hence more filter would be doing the same amount of filtration so you get less restriction.

If you go here click the 'tuning' link up the top, then click the 'inlet' link on the LHS, there will be an explanation of the effect on flow with trumpets on intakes.
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Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 8:14 pm 
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Um.. yeah there are like many different opioions (cant spell lol tradys) but its great to hear what other people think. so all u brains come on and talk on this topic. my 2 cents.. oh also good to get some facts ie dyno sheets.. but anyways..
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Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 8:29 pm 
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I made a basic manometre out of some hose, and measured the differences between the std EF intake snorkel and a 3" hole in the bottom of the airbox. The std EF snorkel with its tiny poo shooter hole well and truely outflowed the hole in the bottom of the box by an immesurable amount on my guage, fact is that there was a huge difference. Due to my ABS I couldnt run in to the radiator dam without excessive plumbing so I didnt bother, as there truely isnt very much vacuume within the airbox even under full load.

 

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Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 9:36 pm 
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Jaysen wrote:
I made a basic manometre out of some hose, and measured the differences between the std EF intake snorkel and a 3" hole in the bottom of the airbox. The std EF snorkel with its tiny poo shooter hole well and truely outflowed the hole in the bottom of the box by an immesurable amount on my guage, fact is that there was a huge difference. Due to my ABS I couldnt run in to the radiator dam without excessive plumbing so I didnt bother, as there truely isnt very much vacuume within the airbox even under full load.


Thats interesting stuff, but wouldent you still benifit from the colder air getting in if you say plummed a pipe to your driving/fog/fag lights, and used that hole as an intake? The snorkel is good, and I am amazed it gets any air at all, so if as you say there isnt much vacume in the box, I doubt there would be any benifit in getting a larger snorkel/CAI system... interesting to say the least.
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Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 9:39 pm 
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Jaysen wrote:
I made a basic manometre out of some hose, and measured the differences between the std EF intake snorkel and a 3" hole in the bottom of the airbox. The std EF snorkel with its tiny poo shooter hole well and truely outflowed the hole in the bottom of the box by an immesurable amount on my guage, fact is that there was a huge difference. Due to my ABS I couldnt run in to the radiator dam without excessive plumbing so I didnt bother, as there truely isnt very much vacuume within the airbox even under full load.


I was just thinking of doing this during the holidays when I've finished exams at Uni. We have some sensitive manometers in our engineering lab, and I was going to hook up my snorkel and see what happens when I hacked a few parts away.

 

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Posted: Fri Jun 16, 2006 1:37 am 
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have fun holding the water still in the manometres :lol: I didnt actually flow test the tubing, just measured the Potential difference between the airbox and atmospheric pressures, so I guess in a way I did flow test it, but didnt bother doing the calcs. Under cruising conditions the airbox is positively charged with air, and its only when it comes under full load by dropping back 2 gears in the auto, is when you notice a vacuume. IMO just upgrading to the ELGT or AU snorkels will eliminate the vacuume experienced under max load. The air isnt going to any measurable amount colder coming from the front bar in contrary to where it already enters the intake duct. There used to be a great article which involved a merc in a wind tunnel, and outlined the high and low pressure zones on the car, which will remain fundamental amoungst all sedans. It highlights (also as unclewoja did) that the high pressure zones are at the mouth of the bumper where it feeds the radiator and the base of the windscreen (the back of the car is irrevelant in this case) Also as previously noted, the high velocity area past the fog lamp vents actually acts as a "venturi" which caused my negative pressure. I did my tests by blocking off each opening with gaf tape, so I obtained a reading from each area independantly.

Jay

 

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