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cold start up/idle/rich/missfire/EF! 

 

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 Post subject: cold start up/idle/rich/missfire/EF!
Posted: Sat Dec 03, 2005 8:57 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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If the car has been sitting over night so the engine is completley cold, when you start it, it will start fine but as soon as it starts if you don't hold your foot on the accelerator it will just stall, or sometimes it wont stall, but will nearly stall and then hunt around idle, once its warmed up it will run fine, except for the occasional missfire under pressure when I boot it, eg; driving along at 70kmh, nail it, it will kick back a gear and just missfire from 3k to 3.5k sometimes 4000rpm, then it will take off as if nothing happend, this not being the major problem though.. Just the cold starts are really annoying me! It also smells really rich on cold start ups..

Posted this problem along time ago and since ive replaced the..

TPS sensor
Fuel filter
Fuel pump
Cleaned ISC
Replaced ISC
Cleaned TB
Reset ECU

It isnt showing any fault codes through diagnostic scan neigher.. Only other thing I think it could be would be ..

a) leads and plugs (only recently changed around 6-8months ago)
b) headgasket (no signs of water in oil, and its not using water)
c) coil pack (although if it was the coil pack it would do it 24/7??)
d) intake air temp sensor (perhaps it could be this as the ecu wont no what temp the engine is running @ and might not or might be putting 2 much fuel?)

Anyone else had a similar problem, or know the fix for it?

Any help would be muchly appreciated!!

Cheers, Rob
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Posted: Sat Dec 03, 2005 8:59 pm 
Stock as a Rock
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Check Coolant Temp Sensor

 

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Posted: Sat Dec 03, 2005 9:05 pm 
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Have you checkes the MAP sensor vacuum line for cracks?
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Posted: Sat Dec 03, 2005 9:06 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Might seem like a stupid Q but how would the coolant temp sensor affect the idle?
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Posted: Sat Dec 03, 2005 10:51 pm 
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Coolant temnp sensor allows engine to see how hot/cold car is and adjust enrichment to compensate. If it is reading hot when cold, then it will dump fuel in to cool morotr down and vice versa. All you need is the correct range, and a multi meter. The workshop manual should have a chart that shows resistance to heat for diagnosing the fault in the sensor
Brett

 

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Posted: Sat Dec 03, 2005 11:02 pm 
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cheers, ill give it ago.. is there any other way in telling if its that sensor or not without the work shop manuel as ive only got a greg-oorys..
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Posted: Sat Dec 03, 2005 11:55 pm 
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ea specs are 58.75 kOhms@10 c
37.3kOhms @ 20 deg c
24.2kOhms @ 30 deg c
16.1kOhms @ 40 deg c
7.5 kOhms @ 60 degc

These are Ea Specs and i don't know if they're the same but hopefully it will put u on the rite track

 

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mm, unlikely.

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Posted: Sun Dec 04, 2005 11:13 pm 
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and how do i test it, with a multimetre?
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Posted: Sun Dec 04, 2005 11:18 pm 
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yeh, accross the terminals, ideally pull it out of the car and heat up water on the stove with a thermometer in it and cheack the reading at the different temps.

 

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mm, unlikely.

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Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2005 8:27 pm 
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how much are these sensors to buy new, sounds like i might aswell get a newy.. lol
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Posted: Fri Jan 06, 2006 5:08 pm 
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OK, I still got this problem.

I just replaced the intake air temp and reset the ecu and theres still no change.

Found a crack in one of the vacuum hoses so we replaced that and it still does it. next is the coolant temp sensor...
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