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| sterps |
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I've noticed my car (EL XR6) started leaking coolant yesterday, after a while of searching i found it to be leaking coolant from the metal pipe where it plugs into the back of the water pump?
I've read that it's probably the O-ring on it's way out. Is this an easy job to fix or annoying? And how do i go about doing it? |
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| phongus |
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sterps wrote: I've noticed my car (EL XR6) started leaking coolant yesterday, after a while of searching i found it to be leaking coolant from the metal pipe where it plugs into the back of the water pump? I've read that it's probably the O-ring on it's way out. Is this an easy job to fix or annoying? And how do i go about doing it? it's pretty annoying. Mines been leaking for a year or so now...i just top up with distilled water when needed. you'll have to remove some brackets and the pull the pipe out, however the brackets are a b**ch to get to. I think there's one under the exhaust manifold, another behind the engine...probably most annoying to get to...and I think another one just before it connects to the heater by-pass section. Since it is a steal tubing, it is a b**ch to maneuver. But yes, possible O-ring failure.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| TROYMAN |
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there is also the chance that the pipe has rusted through where the o ring goes..
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| ghia97 |
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Its a nightmare job, been there done that. I would get some roof grade silicone, and lather it around the leaking o ring area(after cleaning the surface) let it dry and it should stop it. I did it for a mate 4 years ago, and its still good as gold.
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| facer01 |
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Age: 30 Posts: 284 Joined: 27th Sep 2009 Ride: 1995 EF Ford Fairmont Location: Bundaberg, QLD |
yeh mate worst possible job ever, ended up taking the head off to get the pipe out it was just too hard to get out, from what ive noticed almost all the pipes end up rusting and then leaking, so if you do decide to replace it, then buy brand new a new one from ford think it goes for bout 80 bucks.
good luck. |
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| James84 |
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wouldnt it be easier to just remove water pump, replace o-ring, and put back in?
we did it this was the other day. |
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| TROYMAN |
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ive change the pipe before as it was rusted and didnt need to remove the head..
just had to remove the exhaust manifold, |
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| phongus |
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James84 wrote: wouldnt it be easier to just remove water pump, replace o-ring, and put back in? we did it this was the other day. water pump has 2 gaskets sandwiched between water pump, steel gasket and block. If you manage to remove the pump without tearing the gasket between the pump and steel gasket, then it would be easier, but the chances of that is pretty low. Once you tear the gasket, it is hard to replace since you can't put one in unless you pull the water pump apart...I mean you can cut a new gasket at one point and slip it on and use extra sealant...but probably won't guarantee best seal. I always wondered if it's worth having a flexible heater bypass line made up...
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| tiny56 |
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its not that hard to do - its been a while since i did mine but i think to get better access i undid the p/s pump and swung it to one side
remove exhaust manifold if ya got a standard one and undo clamp at rear of block and pull the pipe back towards the firewall - if ya got extractors u dont have to remove clean it up with some emery cloth and use a new o ring and some high grade silicon sealant if the end is rusted and corroded away fraud do sell a replacement tip piece - just cut the damaged bit off and slide on the new bit on with some sealant |
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