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Coolent Res level 

 

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 Post subject: Coolent Res level
Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 5:14 pm 
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have to do a little bit of work on the el's radiator and such.

involves needing to take the radiator out, which will topped up with fresh coolent. The gregory's manual says the WHOLE system takes 16L but im only taking the radiator out. Might leave the bottom hose connected. any idea how much i will loose? how much MAY be left in the block?

any hints? btw i dont want to use the old stuff cause its looking pritty feral

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Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 5:18 pm 
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why not just have 16l handy? if you think ull have left overs just do a few flushes

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 5:22 pm 
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yeah, just rather not buy that much to start with

but never to mind, guess ill find out

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 5:44 pm 
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This is my preference, so probably no everyone will agree with me:

One thing with pre mix is you're paying for the water.
Try concentrate - I think you'll find better value for money, plus you can vary the coolant concentration to suit when you add the water - and this can be checked with coolant test strips.
You may find pre mixes to tend more to be 'overwatered' - particularly the cheaper ones, so you may not be getting the full benefits of the coolant mix.
You may as well flush the system while you have the opportunity.

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 5:58 pm 
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That's how I've always done it. NULON or TECTALOY concentrate, average price and no drama's here.

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 6:58 pm 
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That's generally what I use - the main constituent is glycol.
Forgot to add, if you're changing coolant types, don't mix, and make sure you flush the system thoroughly before you do.

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 8:33 pm 
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snap0964 wrote:
This is my preference, so probably no everyone will agree with me:

One thing with pre mix is you're paying for the water.
Try concentrate - I think you'll find better value for money, plus you can vary the coolant concentration to suit when you add the water - and this can be checked with coolant test strips.
You may find pre mixes to tend more to be 'overwatered' - particularly the cheaper ones, so you may not be getting the full benefits of the coolant mix.
You may as well flush the system while you have the opportunity.


Cheers for that, will keep in mind

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 8:51 pm 
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best value is tectaloy gold 1 litre is all thats generally needed,best mixed with distilled water but not essential.

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:28 pm 
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Agree with all the above users of concentrate, if you run short of distilled water [at $1 per ltr I do] use rain water never town water as the chlorine content is to be avoided when mixing with glycol and aluminium.
Cheers,
Paul

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 2:36 am 
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ok got the job done today. MAY have found why my car has been acting s**t in the mornings too. the thermo housing was weeping and it may have leaked towards the inlet gasket and started to get soaked up. this is only my theory at this stage. but if im right ill be over the moon.

just for the record to, once the radiator and everything are drained, theres about 4 litres left still in the block. a 5L bottle of consentrate and 5 of dis. water will do it.

btw, what % of coolent to water is advised?

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 3:00 am 
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The concentrate bottle will have recommendations on it, usually from 30-50%. I usually ran 30% and up to 50% over the Xmas hols when towing. Now that I have thermo fans, I am trialling running 30% in this hot weather ATM. Today I towed a car trailer nearly 100klm [with another Ford on for half that distance] with no probs. Why don't you start off at the 30%, you can always add more concentrate later. Unless you're in the desert or snow, 50% seems like overkill for ordinary driving IMO.
Cheers
Paul

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 10:11 am 
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snap0964 wrote:
this can be checked with coolant test strips.

I use castrol brand - they're like a litmus strip that you dip in the coolant for a few seconds - it tells you the concentration, and also lets you know the effective glycol level (for cooling), and also the alkaline level for corrosion protection.
I've found they are the best way to know what your coolant is doing - good also to test 6-12 mths later, and see if the coolant is still doing it's job effectively.
I get mine off a good friend who runs an automotive shop, but I'd suspect you can get them from autopro, repco, bursons, etc.

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 11:16 am 
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Snap, thank you for reminding us of the advances in technology. That would be the way to go for my little test program. I've got to go to Burson's to-day so I'll ask them, as they would be very handy items.
So you're not just a pair of ugly faces then?
Mac

 

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