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| -GAS-MAN- |
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Hey guys, sounds like a headgasket to me, anyone have any other reasons why the above could be happening?
Thanks in advance Matt
_________________ it can be fast and cheap,but it wont be reliable |
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| FORDom |
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U mean its gaining pressure when u switch it of? This usually happens because when u switch it off, the water in the block boils because circulation has stopped when the water pump turns off with the engine.. U will notice your temp gauge always goes up when u switch it of after a drive, then start up it will go down instantly..
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| -GAS-MAN- |
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Yeah that is whats happening, but it pressurises so much it flows like a litre out of the overflow, which isnt cool
 So is there a good fix for this?
_________________ it can be fast and cheap,but it wont be reliable |
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| snap0964 |
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Tried a known good radiator cap ??
When you release the radiator cap when cold, is there pressure still in the system ??
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| snap0964 |
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Love these double posts.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| -GAS-MAN- |
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Yeah it has a brand new cap, hours later the system is still pressurised
even when cold.Like a freaky amount of pressure, lol Thanks for the help so far
_________________ it can be fast and cheap,but it wont be reliable |
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| snap0964 |
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Sounds like combustion gasses are getting into the cooling system - probably under a firing ring. Most likely there's no evidence of external leaks. You'll probably find your oil is fine.
If you pop the cap before the first start of the day, and pressure is present, then it's most likely. You can get a sniff test on the coolant, which will prove this if necessary.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| -GAS-MAN- |
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Is that a piston ring? Time for a new engine if it is
_________________ it can be fast and cheap,but it wont be reliable |
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| gogetta |
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sounds like rad cap to me...
you should get greater pressure when running if its the HG leaking... get a mech to check with a TeeKay tester...looks for co2 in your coolant any bubbles in the bottle when running?
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| -GAS-MAN- |
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gogetta wrote: sounds like rad cap to me... you should get greater pressure when running if its the HG leaking... get a mech to check with a TeeKay tester...looks for co2 in your coolant any bubbles in the bottle when running? Hmm, would it be unwise to just spend a day fixing the HG without getting the co2 test done? Cos if its a ring that would require taking the whole f'ing thing apart
_________________ it can be fast and cheap,but it wont be reliable |
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| Kit |
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Yes this is what happening to my step sisters EF Wagon. Overflow is empty. Engine cold. BUT, huge back pressure when releasing the radiator cap, with instant spurt of coolant from down below somewhere. But I cannot find any external leaks anywhere!
I can't figure out where it's all going? |
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| gogetta |
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gasman the firing ring is part of the HG not the piston rings....
its a solid days work at least to do the HG (dont bother posting that it took u 3hours,u know who u r heroes) + gaskets, bolts and machining $$$$... do some more detective work 1st
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| low_ryda |
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my ea will store pressure for weeks, it has a new radiator cap, radiator, thermostat and hoses.
the only strange thing it does is runs real (bout 75%) hot on the first cycle till the thermostat opens then it's fine. i contribute this to a blocked bypass tube (the pipe that runs from the thermostat housing to the water pump) no headgasket leak and i actually have an intermittant leak from a welsh plug under the exhaust. still holds pressure.
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
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| DRHEMI |
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My EF Fairmont had the same problem
The pressure would be so great it would spit the coolant out of the overflow tube - it did it for a while then just stopped doing it. But then it started leaking out of the Radiator - replaced that But then it started leaking out of the heater hose - replaced that But then it started leaking out of the Heater Radiator - replaced that After all holes were fixed it Started leaking out of the overflow tube AGAIN Arrrrrrrg !!! Took the radiator cap off while the car was running and it would spurt out everything out of the overflow and more - did the same test with mates car and no where near as bad as the pressure in my car Went on the Dyno and then this:-  Get the car back this week so I will update thread and advise if I am still having the pressure issue I presume the failing Heater, Heater Radiator and Radiator was all due to the increase pressure - yeah they will go in time but having that muhc pressure IMO made then blow sooner - fatigue
_________________ PROEF 13.46 @ 105.78mph - 1994 Ford Fairmont EF NA 6cyl Man 3.9 diff Sedan |
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| Paydirt |
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-GAS-MAN- wrote: Hey guys, sounds like a headgasket to me, anyone have any other reasons why the above could be happening? Thanks in advance Matt Try borrowing/stealing an Engine Compression Tester. Remove all spark plugs, then screw in compression tester (1 cylinder at a time), crank engine over with the ignition key for 5 seconds and read what's on the guage. All readings from each cylinder should be within 10% of each other. If not you've got problems. |
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