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Cylinder 6 makes the car shudder 

 

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Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 11:40 am 
Tyre Shredder
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i'm pretty sure its not the distibutor. if it was then it would run like crap when driving. you said it runs fine while driving. my distibutor hasnt been touched since '93 and i had a bad idle. just check isc and map sensor.
if the cylinders are firing ok then its not the distibutor causing bad spark.
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Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 11:54 am 
Oompa Loompa
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But its not firing on all cylinders. #6 seems to be the one causing the problems.
Was the plug that came out of #6 burning properly or was it coated in oil/fuel etc.?
It is quite possible for all the contacts except for #6 inside the dizzy cap to be fine. #6 may be broken, burnt out or just worn.
Anyway, my money is on the dizzy cap and/or rotor.
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Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 11:55 am 
Oompa Loompa
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But its not firing on all cylinders. #6 seems to be the one causing the problems.
Was the plug that came out of #6 burning properly or was it coated in oil/fuel etc.?
It is quite possible for all the contacts except for #6 inside the dizzy cap to be fine. #6 may be broken, burnt out or just worn.
Anyway, my money is on the dizzy cap and/or rotor.
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Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 8:12 pm 
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Have you done a compression test?

If everything with the ignition system has been test to be ok, and being it is a CFI so not ijector related. It may be low on compression in #6. Maybe a valve or head gasket.

 

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Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 9:08 pm 
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Hi there, I had a similar problem with my 6 cyl EF. Missing on number 6 at idle.

Checked everything, leads, plugs, coil pack - all fine.

Thought must be injectors - had them cleaned, no change.

Thinking head gasket, valves, about to do compression test when i heard a hissing towards back of motor, further investigation revealed a cracked inlet manifold gasket allowing air in where not required.

Solution - $25.00 gasket - problem fixed.

Now if only i can source a air con compressor - mines seized.
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Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 11:46 pm 
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hit up ftg for the ac comp, they will do ya a good deal :P sry its off topic :P

 

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Posted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 7:38 am 
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#6 spark plug was burnt fine like the rest of them. haven't had a chance to look at the dizzy cap yet. Will get around to it soon.


Thanks guys
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Posted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 5:31 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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how obvious should the hissing be if its a cracked gasket. I can hear a hissing when i put my ear close to the back of the engine, i mean like 6" or so, but then i can't work out if its just a belt sound or hissing from the gasket, but i only hear it when i have my ear close to the back.

Cheers
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Posted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 6:40 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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The DMac wrote:
how obvious should the hissing be if its a cracked gasket. I can hear a hissing when i put my ear close to the back of the engine, i mean like 6" or so, but then i can't work out if its just a belt sound or hissing from the gasket, but i only hear it when i have my ear close to the back.

Cheers


If it was a belt you would hear it better at the front of the engine.
Hissing at the back, looks like you have a vacuum leak, maybe manifold gasket. I think this was mentioned before.

 

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Posted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 6:50 pm 
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The hissing sound is similar to if you remove a vacuum hose.

To confirm cracked gasket, we poured a small amount of water on to where the crack was visible. As this water was drawn into the cylinder it then produced more than the normal steam out the exhaust. (of course dont flood it from a hose or anything or you run the chance of hydra locking)

To do all of this on a EF you have to remove your air intake from throttle body back to air box in order to access the rear of inlet manifold. Not being familar with the EA air inlet system i dont know if you are required to do this.
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Posted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 7:00 pm 
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Far better using aerostart than water, if the engine picks up then the leak is found

 

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Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2005 9:52 am 
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okay guys, this morning i took the dizzy cap off and had a look. points opposite cylinder 6 had all this white s**t on them. Cylinder 6 had some rust s**t. So i cleaned that off. then the centre part that goes to the coil looked and felt like paper thats burnt. I cleaned all the points except the centre one because i thought it couldn't be that if the other cylinders are working a treat. Put it back on and the car ran great at idle. Then once it warmed up it started shaking again at idle.

Now i had a listen for the hissing that you guys said however couldn't hear it. However i heard a tapping from the back of the engine. Could this be from a burnt valve. It is like a tappet sound however it seems to be only coming from cylinder 6.

Cheers
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 Post subject: manifold leak
Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2005 11:03 am 
Getting Side Ways
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The DMac wrote:
okay guys, this morning i took the dizzy cap off and had a look. points opposite cylinder 6 had all this white s**t on them. Cylinder 6 had some rust s**t. So i cleaned that off. then the centre part that goes to the coil looked and felt like paper thats burnt. I cleaned all the points except the centre one because i thought it couldn't be that if the other cylinders are working a treat. Put it back on and the car ran great at idle. Then once it warmed up it started shaking again at idle.

Now i had a listen for the hissing that you guys said however couldn't hear it. However i heard a tapping from the back of the engine. Could this be from a burnt valve. It is like a tappet sound however it seems to be only coming from cylinder 6.

Cheers



hi

check for manifold vacumm leaks or broken vacumm hoses

sounds like thats wot ur problem is

cracks open up when heat is applied to them

there are several methods of checking

have fun

cheers

 

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Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2005 11:26 am 
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okay then thanks mate. You can spray WD40 on the manifold, not to much obviously cos its flamable. But i dunno how the hell i am gonna do that if just trying to get my ear close enough is hard or even see into the area.

Think its one for the mechanics.

Oh by the way, how much would a gasket be for manifold if i were to do it myself. Also if i were to do it myself would i need a tension wrench to tighten the manifold back on or would "tight" be good enough.


Cheers
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 Post subject: idle problem
Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2005 11:35 am 
Getting Side Ways
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The DMac wrote:
okay then thanks mate. You can spray WD40 on the manifold, not to much obviously cos its flamable. But i dunno how the hell i am gonna do that if just trying to get my ear close enough is hard or even see into the area.

Think its one for the mechanics.

Oh by the way, how much would a gasket be for manifold if i were to do it myself. Also if i were to do it myself would i need a tension wrench to tighten the manifold back on or would "tight" be good enough.


Cheers


hi

gasket would be anything between 10 to 20 dollars depending wot u buy and from whom u buy it from

mechanic will charge alot more

its very easy to change as urs is a CPI im to beleive from the posting at the start of the thread as the bolts retaining the manifold to the head are easy to get to.

make sure bother surfaces are clean of all the old gasket and fit a new one for the sake of a few dollars , bolts are small so dont over tighten as u could brake or strip the thread in the alloy head just nice and firm will be sufficent and retighten after a few days

see if that fixs ur problem , also look for cracked vacumm hoses .


reset the idle on the car u have to follow a procedure on the CPI ( carby style injections ) otherwise u will have alsorts of idle problems if not done correctly

cheers

 

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