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Cylinder 6 makes the car shudder 

 

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 Post subject: Cylinder 6 makes the car shudder
Posted: Sun Oct 09, 2005 6:49 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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hey guys,

the car lately has been running rough at idle. We have worked out that it is coming from cylinder 6 and have eliminated the cause being spark plugs and leads. Driving is fine, just idling the car shudders.

Any ideas. Thanks.
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Posted: Sun Oct 09, 2005 9:29 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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how did you work out it was cylinder 6?
and how do you know it's not the plugs and leads??

just give me all the info you can. even if you think it wont help

 

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Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 7:08 am 
Getting Side Ways
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okay me and my dad pulled the leads off each cylinder and 1-5 make the car shake even more at idle. Then at number 6 there was no change. We thought okay it was a plug. however to test it was a plug or not we swapped number 6 cylinder spark plug with number 5 cylinder spark plug. Then we pulled number 5 cylinder lead off and it shook the car as it previously did, so it wasn't the plug because it worked. When we pulled number 6 cylinder lead off there was no change. So we replaced the leads and still the shudder still stayed, so it isn't the leads.

Thanks.
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 Post subject: Shudder
Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 8:48 am 
Oompa Loompa
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Could be your dizzy thingo. What do EA's have? I would be inclined to go through the whole electrical/ignition system. It definitely sounds like something between the coil and the plug.
I just noticed something, where the hell did all my posts go?!? I only have 10 where I used to have many.
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Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 9:51 am 
Getting Side Ways
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you talking about the distributor. If it is that how much is that to replace. Hopefully it is something small like that. My dad who is an ex mechanic is unsure but said it could be something big like valves :cry:, but hopefully the distributor. Anybody else who can confirm this.
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 Post subject: Shaky EA
Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 10:05 am 
Oompa Loompa
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Dizzy cap should be bugger all from Repco or somewhere like that.
I'd be replacing the coil anyway with a newy.
Pull the dizzy cap off and have a gander at the contact points, if they look stuffed or it's dirty that's probably your problem right there. Having said that I haven't looked at an EA for years so I can't really visualize the engine bay setup.
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 Post subject: Donk
Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 10:08 am 
Oompa Loompa
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Does the engine bay look like this?

 

 

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Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 10:14 am 
Getting Side Ways
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the points on the dizzy cap where the leads connected to were cleaned when we changed the leads over. Are you talking about the contact points underneath the cap.
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 Post subject: Shaky EA
Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 10:15 am 
Oompa Loompa
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Yep, the ones inside the cap. Would be worthwhile just replacing it anyway. Does it have a rotor button inside or some other kind of setup?
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Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 10:21 am 
Getting Side Ways
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that picture is off the multipoint engine bay. Ours is EFI and has the big tennis racket air intake on top of the intake manifold. Umm i can't really comment on the dizzy because we didn't look inside it. That will be the next step though.

Thanks for the help.
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 Post subject: possible vacumm leak
Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 10:32 am 
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The DMac wrote:
that picture is off the multipoint engine bay. Ours is EFI and has the big tennis racket air intake on top of the intake manifold. Umm i can't really comment on the dizzy because we didn't look inside it. That will be the next step though.

Thanks for the help.


hi

if the other 5 cylinders are firing ok and u said u swapped the plug and leg with the neighbouring cylinder and made no change when u did a cylinder balance test and u reckon the post on the top and bottom of the distributor cap are not corrided then its not a electricla fault

inside the distributor is a hall affect sensor so if all the other cylinders are firing then 6 will be also same goes with the TFi module and the ignition ciol

if all the leads , spark plugs , distributor cap , rotor button are ok look else where cause it sounds like its not a ignition problem

i would direct my tests on possibably the inlet manifold gasket around cylinder 6 and some of the vacumm hoses around that area will cause a misfire if there leaking that port or possibale early stages of a head gasket leak

cheers

 

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 Post subject: possible vacumm leak
Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 10:32 am 
Getting Side Ways
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The DMac wrote:
that picture is off the multipoint engine bay. Ours is EFI and has the big tennis racket air intake on top of the intake manifold. Umm i can't really comment on the dizzy because we didn't look inside it. That will be the next step though.

Thanks for the help.


hi

if the other 5 cylinders are firing ok and u said u swapped the plug and leads with the neighbouring cylinder and made no change when u did a cylinder balance test and u reckon the post on the top and bottom of the distributor cap are not corrided then its not a electrical fault

inside the distributor is a hall affect sensor so if all the other cylinders are firing then 6 will be also same goes with the TFi module and the ignition ciol

if all the leads , spark plugs , distributor cap , rotor button are ok look else where cause it sounds like its not a ignition problem

i would direct my tests on possibably the inlet manifold gasket around cylinder 6 and some of the vacumm hoses around that area will cause a misfire if there leaking that port or possibale early stages of a head gasket leak

cheers

 

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Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 11:29 am 
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hi mate, i had a similar prob with my cfi ea on the weekend. ran alright when driving but idle was a b*tch. check the MAP sensor and also the ISC motor (idle speed controller). my isc was ok but check the connection. mine was corroded. i cleaned it and now it runs great.
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Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 11:31 am 
Getting Side Ways
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we don't know the condition of the distributor inside yet. When we changed the leads we cleaned the corrosion off the terminals on the outside of the dizzy, however the inside hasn't been touched.
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 Post subject: EA
Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 11:35 am 
Oompa Loompa
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Bet you London to a brick that the dizzy cap is corroded as hell or just plain worn out. Just rang Repco for a quote - $23
$14 for the rotor or they are available at Super Cheap Auto places like that.
As I said, even if it is ok replace it for peace of mind.
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