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Diagnosing the last few issues with my car 

 

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 Post subject: Diagnosing the last few issues with my car
Posted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 2:40 pm 
Parts Gopher
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Age: 25

Posts: 90

Joined: 19th Feb 2013

Ride: NL Fairlane Ghia

Location: Sydney
NSW, Australia

So I bought an EL Fairmont for $800 and found that EVERYTHING was faulty somehow. I've managed to fix pretty much everything, but there are still a couple issues with it and was wondering if anyone could help me confirm what they are:

1. The revs drop to 0 sometimes while driving. The car has done this 3 times, and jabbing at the throttle pedal seems to kick the car back to life. All electrics stay on and the car seems fine apart from no RPM.

2. The car won't start sometimes. It'll fire then IMMEDIATELY stop and not start again. Sometimes it'll fire after a few tries, sometimes it won't. Spraying some Start Ya Bastard into the TB kicks it into life.

3. The car seems to struggle to get up hills after a while of driving, especially at high speeds or on the highway at high RPM's. Going up even a slight gradient after a while requires me to put my foot almost halfway down, which kicks the engine down a gear or two but produces little to no actual momentum, just high revs. The car goes hard, so I'm not suspecting a power issue. The throttle cable is rooted though (doesn't feel slack, but the metal tube is rusted, exposed and does not sit in place. I've had to cable tie it to prevent it from moving when the pedal is pushed), and I was wondering if that could be the issue.

4. The throttle pedal feels nice and loose when I first turn the car on, but seems to slowly get stiffer and harder to push the longer I drive. This is accompanied by the above issue, i.e. harder to get up hills, car goes changes gears to compensate but doesn't go anywhere very fast.

BONUS: Only one of my brake lights is working, according to my friend. I replaced the brake switch about 4 months ago. Could it need replacing again? Both bulbs are working fine but only one increases in brightness when the brake pedal is pushed.

Cheers guys.

 

_________________

4.0L Tickford six, 1645b E-series custom grind, MLS gasket, performance valve springs, 3" stainless intake, extractors, 2.5" Lukey, 100cpi hi-flow, T5 manual, J3 tune.

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 Post subject: Re: Diagnosing the last few issues with my car
Posted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 3:27 pm 
Fordmods Junkie
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Joined: 22nd Jan 2009

Ride: '91 EB Wagoon

Location: Geeelong
VIC, Australia

xELFalconx wrote:
So I bought an EL Fairmont for $800 and found that EVERYTHING was faulty somehow.
BONUS: Only one of my brake lights is working, according to my friend. I replaced the brake switch about 4 months ago. Could it need replacing again? Both bulbs are working fine but only one increases in brightness when the brake pedal is pushed.

Cheers guys.



i had similar with AU ... had ta wiggle globe in socket ta get ta work. otherwise its a blown globe
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 Post subject: Re: Diagnosing the last few issues with my car
Posted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 3:34 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Posts: 1427

Joined: 21st May 2005

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

xELFalconx wrote:
So I bought an EL Fairmont for $800 and found that EVERYTHING was faulty somehow. I've managed to fix pretty much everything, but there are still a couple issues with it and was wondering if anyone could help me confirm what they are:

1. The revs drop to 0 sometimes while driving. The car has done this 3 times, and jabbing at the throttle pedal seems to kick the car back to life. All electrics stay on and the car seems fine apart from no RPM.
Does the car die, or just the gauge drops to 0?

2. The car won't start sometimes. It'll fire then IMMEDIATELY stop and not start again. Sometimes it'll fire after a few tries, sometimes it won't. Spraying some Start Ya Bastard into the TB kicks it into life.
Sticky ISC could cause this, too slow to react and keep the engine running.
May also be spark related. Have you replaced leads/plugs?


3. The car seems to struggle to get up hills after a while of driving, especially at high speeds or on the highway at high RPM's. Going up even a slight gradient after a while requires me to put my foot almost halfway down, which kicks the engine down a gear or two but produces little to no actual momentum, just high revs. The car goes hard, so I'm not suspecting a power issue. The throttle cable is rooted though (doesn't feel slack, but the metal tube is rusted, exposed and does not sit in place. I've had to cable tie it to prevent it from moving when the pedal is pushed), and I was wondering if that could be the issue.
What did you cable tie the cable to?

4. The throttle pedal feels nice and loose when I first turn the car on, but seems to slowly get stiffer and harder to push the longer I drive. This is accompanied by the above issue, i.e. harder to get up hills, car goes changes gears to compensate but doesn't go anywhere very fast.
Try cleaning throttle body

BONUS: Only one of my brake lights is working, according to my friend. I replaced the brake switch about 4 months ago. Could it need replacing again? Both bulbs are working fine but only one increases in brightness when the brake pedal is pushed.
Brake light globes are dual filament. One of yours is blown. Replace the blown globe.

Cheers guys.
Answers in red.

I guess there's a reason it was $800.

 

_________________

EL Fairmont Ghia - Manual - Supercharged
- The Car
- The Headlights

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 Post subject: Re: Diagnosing the last few issues with my car
Posted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 8:40 pm 
Parts Gopher
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Age: 25

Posts: 90

Joined: 19th Feb 2013

Ride: NL Fairlane Ghia

Location: Sydney
NSW, Australia

MAD wrote:
xELFalconx wrote:
So I bought an EL Fairmont for $800 and found that EVERYTHING was faulty somehow. I've managed to fix pretty much everything, but there are still a couple issues with it and was wondering if anyone could help me confirm what they are:

1. The revs drop to 0 sometimes while driving. The car has done this 3 times, and jabbing at the throttle pedal seems to kick the car back to life. All electrics stay on and the car seems fine apart from no RPM.
Does the car die, or just the gauge drops to 0?

2. The car won't start sometimes. It'll fire then IMMEDIATELY stop and not start again. Sometimes it'll fire after a few tries, sometimes it won't. Spraying some Start Ya Bastard into the TB kicks it into life.
Sticky ISC could cause this, too slow to react and keep the engine running.
May also be spark related. Have you replaced leads/plugs?


3. The car seems to struggle to get up hills after a while of driving, especially at high speeds or on the highway at high RPM's. Going up even a slight gradient after a while requires me to put my foot almost halfway down, which kicks the engine down a gear or two but produces little to no actual momentum, just high revs. The car goes hard, so I'm not suspecting a power issue. The throttle cable is rooted though (doesn't feel slack, but the metal tube is rusted, exposed and does not sit in place. I've had to cable tie it to prevent it from moving when the pedal is pushed), and I was wondering if that could be the issue.
What did you cable tie the cable to?

4. The throttle pedal feels nice and loose when I first turn the car on, but seems to slowly get stiffer and harder to push the longer I drive. This is accompanied by the above issue, i.e. harder to get up hills, car goes changes gears to compensate but doesn't go anywhere very fast.
Try cleaning throttle body

BONUS: Only one of my brake lights is working, according to my friend. I replaced the brake switch about 4 months ago. Could it need replacing again? Both bulbs are working fine but only one increases in brightness when the brake pedal is pushed.
Brake light globes are dual filament. One of yours is blown. Replace the blown globe.

Cheers guys.
Answers in red.

I guess there's a reason it was $800.


1. Car does not 'die' as the electrics and all that still work fine, the guage just drops to 0, but I don't get any throttle response when it is sitting at 0. So technically yeah, it dies.

2. I'll check the ISC, but have cleaned it recently, same with the throttle body. The car also has new leads and plugs.

3. The cable ties are around the throttle cable tubing near the master brake cylinder to prevent the tubing from moving erratically when I push the pedal. It's hard to explain, but the issue was there way before I tied the thing in place. The car also has a brand new cat/extractors so my theory of a blocked cat causing the low power went out the window.

4. Cleaned recently, but I'll give it another shot just in case.

5. Yeah, it was a filament. Easy fix.

 

_________________

4.0L Tickford six, 1645b E-series custom grind, MLS gasket, performance valve springs, 3" stainless intake, extractors, 2.5" Lukey, 100cpi hi-flow, T5 manual, J3 tune.

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 Post subject: Re: Diagnosing the last few issues with my car
Posted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 9:21 pm 
Getting Side Ways
Offline
User avatar

Posts: 1427

Joined: 21st May 2005

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

xELFalconx wrote:
MAD wrote:
xELFalconx wrote:
So I bought an EL Fairmont for $800 and found that EVERYTHING was faulty somehow. I've managed to fix pretty much everything, but there are still a couple issues with it and was wondering if anyone could help me confirm what they are:

1. The revs drop to 0 sometimes while driving. The car has done this 3 times, and jabbing at the throttle pedal seems to kick the car back to life. All electrics stay on and the car seems fine apart from no RPM.
Does the car die, or just the gauge drops to 0?

2. The car won't start sometimes. It'll fire then IMMEDIATELY stop and not start again. Sometimes it'll fire after a few tries, sometimes it won't. Spraying some Start Ya Bastard into the TB kicks it into life.
Sticky ISC could cause this, too slow to react and keep the engine running.
May also be spark related. Have you replaced leads/plugs?


3. The car seems to struggle to get up hills after a while of driving, especially at high speeds or on the highway at high RPM's. Going up even a slight gradient after a while requires me to put my foot almost halfway down, which kicks the engine down a gear or two but produces little to no actual momentum, just high revs. The car goes hard, so I'm not suspecting a power issue. The throttle cable is rooted though (doesn't feel slack, but the metal tube is rusted, exposed and does not sit in place. I've had to cable tie it to prevent it from moving when the pedal is pushed), and I was wondering if that could be the issue.
What did you cable tie the cable to?

4. The throttle pedal feels nice and loose when I first turn the car on, but seems to slowly get stiffer and harder to push the longer I drive. This is accompanied by the above issue, i.e. harder to get up hills, car goes changes gears to compensate but doesn't go anywhere very fast.
Try cleaning throttle body

BONUS: Only one of my brake lights is working, according to my friend. I replaced the brake switch about 4 months ago. Could it need replacing again? Both bulbs are working fine but only one increases in brightness when the brake pedal is pushed.
Brake light globes are dual filament. One of yours is blown. Replace the blown globe.

Cheers guys.
Answers in red.

I guess there's a reason it was $800.


1. Car does not 'die' as the electrics and all that still work fine, the guage just drops to 0, but I don't get any throttle response when it is sitting at 0. So technically yeah, it dies.
Sounds like it could be TFI troubles. Get yourself a new Bosch dizzy. (Go to a little extra effort and put extra heatsink paste between the module and the body of the dizzy)

2. I'll check the ISC, but have cleaned it recently, same with the throttle body. The car also has new leads and plugs.
dizzy car, rotor button?
Have you reset ECU?


3. The cable ties are around the throttle cable tubing near the master brake cylinder to prevent the tubing from moving erratically when I push the pedal. It's hard to explain, but the issue was there way before I tied the thing in place. The car also has a brand new cat/extractors so my theory of a blocked cat causing the low power went out the window.
To set your mind at ease, get a new cable. They can move around a bit, they need to as the engine moves under acceleration

4. Cleaned recently, but I'll give it another shot just in case.
Could be related to dodgy cable

5. Yeah, it was a filament. Easy fix.

 

_________________

EL Fairmont Ghia - Manual - Supercharged
- The Car
- The Headlights

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 Post subject: Re: Diagnosing the last few issues with my car
Posted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 10:03 pm 
Parts Gopher
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User avatar

Age: 25

Posts: 90

Joined: 19th Feb 2013

Ride: NL Fairlane Ghia

Location: Sydney
NSW, Australia

Ah, cheers man. I'll look into the dizzy.

As for resetting the ECU, yeah I've tried it. Doesn't seem to change a thing.

 

_________________

4.0L Tickford six, 1645b E-series custom grind, MLS gasket, performance valve springs, 3" stainless intake, extractors, 2.5" Lukey, 100cpi hi-flow, T5 manual, J3 tune.

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