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Disconnecting battery on a BA 

 

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 Post subject: Disconnecting battery on a BA
Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 9:07 am 
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This is gunna be a stupid post from someone who is reasonably experienced but I'm a bit tentative when it comes to these things esp on my good car and not my play thing :lol:
Anyway.......if I disconnect the battery on my BA (which doesn't have an alarm) what dramas can I expect? I know about the trip computer, radio etc but is there anything in the ecu etc that may take a disliking to my actions?

BTW the reason I am disconnecting the battery is to give the bost control solinoid a squirt of wd40 and to clean out vaccuum lines running to said solinoid. This is (apparently) the easiest wy to access the solinoid.

Cheers in advance

The Dog 8-)

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 10:05 am 
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Not too sure with the BA but on the e series you can either just take the terminals off and lose stored info, earth terminal first off and last back on, or there is an adapter you can buy from the parts stores that you put a nine volt battery into and plug into your cig lighter socket.

If you plug it in and turn key to acc then remove batt all data should be maintained.

While this is connected don't press brake pedal or have radio on etc.

Maybe someone could verify this!

Grumbles

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 2:27 pm 
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i don't know about the 9 volt battery adapter, but take the terminals off just how ol' grumblebum said and yes you will lose all settings but nothing critical. Your car will just need to relearn how you drive when you plug the battery back in.

Unless your battery has a handle bar on it, it will be a b**ch to get out cause it sits in a plastic cover. I think ford uses a strap to get them out which sits around each terminal and locks in when you pull on it

Even with the battery out the solenoid is b**ch to work on still, but then again I have little patience for fiddly things like that

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 2:39 pm 
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you willl lose some info on the dash and s**t and it shouldnt go in to limp mode but some do but is is very rare it will just need to learn to drive again because of compuer controled thorrote

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 2:39 pm 
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All done, no dramas at all. But by f**k I'm glad I did!!!
The pipe from the intercooler back to the throttle body had basically come out :shock: so must've been dumping a heap of boost (funny thing is I never heard it and I woulda thought that would make some form of noise :? ).
Anyway fixed that, some new hose clamps, turned the bloody BOV down so it's not so noisy and by f**k its likle a new car. Have issues tho now with smoke coming from around the rear tyre area when you nail it with traction control turned off :twisted: :lol:

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 5:31 pm 
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I seen people use WD40 before but they also say that silicon spray works better and doesnt need to be done as oftern.

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 9:28 pm 
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I was actually thinking of silicon spray but was warned off of it because it doesn't evaporate. Part of the problem is gunk builup in the line and if whatever you use doesn't evaporate then you caould conceivably add to the problem.
Next time I am actually gunna shift the solinoid to where it is more accesible. Only reason I didn't do it this time is that it is kinda hard to get parts ie extra vaccuum line in Bordertown on a Saturday :evil:

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 10:59 pm 
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G'day all,

Another good product I have come across at work is called "contact cleaner". It can be obtrained from electronics stores. It evaporates completely away in 30 mins with no residue (thats why its used on electronics).
We use it at work for Air equipment such as valves and the like.

Re: the Battery adaptor,
It does work as I have used it on my old EF. As stated before, turn the radio off, take the globe out of the interior light (If you plan to have the doors open (or just wind the window/s down and have the door shut)), Dont open the boot causing the light to come on) so prepare the tools required and it should be fine.
Try and make it as quick as possible using the adaptor as I found that the 9v battery can get quite warm!
I mainly used it when needing to take the battery out usually when changing a globe in the right hand headlight.

anyways
cya
EFfutura
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Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 11:25 pm 
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it is considered unsafe and unacceptable practices to use a 9V battery to supply power to cars for any reason if fitted with SRS devices (ie airbags, seatbelt pretensioners etc) as the wrong voltage going into an RCM can (not likely but can) cause the airbags to be deployed. I have seen this happen with my own eyes.

also, a BA (or any falcon for that matter) will not go into limp home mode simply from having the battery unplugged. Again using a 9V adapter may cause this to happen as if the ignition is inadvertantly turned on while the 9V adapter is in place the solenoid readings will all be not as expected.

Best thing to do when u disconnect the battery on a BA is to clean the throttle body. The car will idle better straight away, and often cleaning the throttle body and reseting the KAM (by PDS/IDS **OR** disconnecting the battery for 1 minute) is the best way to get a BA with a rough idle to idle correctly again.

now, having dispelled a couple of myths, 2 more points if i may.
I have seen on quite a number of BA/BF/Territories, the word CODE being displayed constantly after having the battery disconnected, on the ICC screen. Unlike older falcons this simply needs to re-educate itself to the PCM. If you see it after a battery change etc, leave the ignition on on but dont start it for about 10 seconds, and this should clear. In theory it should happen even with the engine running but this isnt always the case.

2. In the absence of a battery strap, two appropriately sized ring spanners may be used over the battery terminals as handles, but under no circumstances dont let them touch each other. (Not a good practise but hey if its all u got its all u got.)

Also 2 pairs of multigrips will work and it probably a better option as if u let go of them they will generally fall off, and the handles are sometimes insulated too.

***End Rant***
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Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 12:41 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Hey xpression that was a great piece of technical info 8-) . And you just explained something to me. This thing used to stall or almost stall when coming up to an intersection but it would idle fine. Now it doesn't show any hint of stalling. Perhaps because the battery was removed??? :?

 

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You'll rope an ol' blue norther and milk it 'till it's dry

Bulldog the Diamantina pin its ears down flat

Long before you take this cowboy's hat

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Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 9:12 am 
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quite probably yes
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