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Does the stock ignition coil need to be grounded??? 

 

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 Post subject: Does the stock ignition coil need to be grounded???
Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 4:30 am 
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:D
Yes or No!!!

 

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 Post subject: Re: Does the stock ignition coil need to be grounded???
Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 8:04 am 
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The body, No.

The negative terminal yes, in sence is grounded.

However, grounding the coil can minimise any interference you may hear on your radio.


If I had just said 'no' like you asked, someone would have corrected me anyways.

 

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 Post subject: Re: Does the stock ignition coil need to be grounded???
Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 8:17 am 
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Krytox wrote:
The body, No.

The negative terminal yes, in sence is grounded.

However, grounding the coil can minimise any interference you may hear on your radio.


If I had just said 'no' like you asked, someone would have corrected me anyways.


So as long as the factory Noise Suppressor is bolted back onto the block the coil can be mounted anywhere....Thanks....

 

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 Post subject: Re: Does the stock ignition coil need to be grounded???
Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 8:28 am 
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That noise suppressor should be close to the coil... If that "noise" travels into a loom it will induce into another wire... So the close that capacitor is to the coil, the less chance of that noise getting too far... You'll notice nearly every car since they've been invented that they're mounted at the coil...

Check out my build thread (link in sig)... You can see my custom coil bracket of recent when I did the BBM conversion... This was to stop the coil "hanging" and later cracking... I made up an earth strap from one of the steel sleeves to the block thinking this was the high voltage earth... I have since discovered that of the two windings in the coil... One side of each is common and they've joined together to the negative pin the LV plug... So chances are the coil is probably just an auto transformer... I supposed another way to see this is the coils on the old holdens and fords used to have that clamp around the epoxy body and bolted to the block, they didn't earth there so the HV earth is again the negative LV terminal... So you do not need to earth the body of the dizzy at all... Just need to retain that capacitor between the LV positive and earth as close to the dizzy as possible... I have concluded those steel sleeves in its base are merely there to stop the over tightening of the bolts and cracking the hard non conductive epoxy body...

On my ED there was also a blue diode under the old manifold that was part of the coil circuit, depending on what you're relocating and cutting off I'd make sure that capacitor goes on the right side of that diode too... I can't remember now and didn't really pay that much attention at the time...

Cheers,
Tim

 

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