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Dyno chart - BBM long and short runners 

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 19, 2005 4:03 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: ford au wagon 4.0 na

Power: 170 rwkw

Location: Merrylands
NSW, Australia

Did you change your intake ?

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 19, 2005 8:07 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: BA XR6 Turbo

Power: 175 rwkw

Location: The Shire, Sydney
NSW, Australia

Change my intake when ?
I've been running the BA intake for the last 18 months or so, so I guess that's a no :)

I might check my air filter, it went on a trip down the coast the other week on dirty roads so it might be clogged with dust or a small animal or something. haha

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 19, 2005 10:55 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: ford au wagon 4.0 na

Power: 170 rwkw

Location: Merrylands
NSW, Australia

I am not that keen on optimax. cars idles worse and feels less powerfull. Ihave been running mobil or caltex 98.

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2005 12:12 am 
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Ride: BA XR6 Turbo

Power: 175 rwkw

Location: The Shire, Sydney
NSW, Australia

Yeah I found that the day after filling up with optimax (I usually use the other premiums) the idle was noticably rougher and the car had a sideways shake to it. Surely this change in petrol couldn't account for it being that much down on power though...

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2005 12:23 am 
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You'll find that the fuel will not affect the peak power, more the idle... that said a batch of really bad fuel will obviously burn s**t. Id check your BBM manifold, or swap it over with someone else that you know works. Maybe something getting stuck on the transfer between runners. Also 145rwkw is not what you should be getting, so I would say the obvious things, like plugs, leads, dizzy cap, air filter, fuel filter, timing, and oil... after that see how it runs, and blame it on the BBM lol


Cheers

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2005 8:46 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: ford au wagon 4.0 na

Power: 170 rwkw

Location: Merrylands
NSW, Australia

Just another suggestion.Check the bbm vacuum lines for splits and the diaphram that controls the bbm. I am not sure which cam you are running but get the dialling in checked. If you have any lifter noise get that looked at too.


Also bear in mind that dynos suck.They are very inconsistent.I recently saw a guy get 146.8 rwks on Croydons dyno in Silverwater and drive down to Autotechs dyno and get 133 rwkws. Same type of dyno too.

You would think that dynomatics would adhere to a uniform measurement in power by their dynos. As far as I see these are tools for measurement of power.Theses figures are inexcusable. ut they all hide behind the excuse that they are only tuning tools. If this is so then they should charge accordingly.It seems like misleading information.

I would be more inclined to take it for a run and see how it goes.

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2005 12:39 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Big cams can often affect manifold vacuum. One thing that can fix that is to get a decent sized fuel filter (no need to be EFI, just a normal low pressure filter will do) and hook that up inline with your vacuum/MAP line.

The filter acts as a reservoir and also takes out any pressure fluctuations cause by big overlaps.

Perhaps try that and see if it does anything? I've only really heard of it being effective to give a good idle MAP reading, but it could help your situation.
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Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2005 4:58 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: BA XR6 Turbo

Power: 175 rwkw

Location: The Shire, Sydney
NSW, Australia

The engine only has 5000 or so ks on and the plugs and leads were new at that time too. The fuel filter has about 8000ks on it and the air filter is a bit older, but it's a K&N panel so I'll get a cleaner/recharge kit for that. The oil and filter is about due for a change too - that said, all of those things should last more than 5000ks before causing problems. It's an EF so it has coilpacks vs a dizzy and also a crank angle sensor pretty much sorting the timing.

The dialing in with the cam should be right... Mine is a "stage 4" cam, and Mark is running a "stage 5" in his without dramas so one would assume it's not a manifold vacuum problem. I'll suggest all these things to him though

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2005 9:41 pm 
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whats the cam specs?
did you muck around with the ajst screw on the BBM switch?
Where, at what rpm did it peak at?
hows your fuel filter?
and check vac lines for crack ect...

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2005 11:19 pm 
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Fuel choice is not going to account for a 20rwkw difference in power maybe 5kw but not 20kw,

What the others have said is right start with the basics a dirty fuel filter will give flat spots.

Get your coil packs tested EF's are common to give problems like what you are experencing I have sold quite a few coil packs for EF's.

Neil

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 12:43 pm 
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SVO XR6 wrote:
whats the cam specs?

Not sure exactly, Mark would know

did you muck around with the ajst screw on the BBM switch?
I may have... :lol:
Actually Joe @ Cresent did it. Half a turn I believe.

Where, at what rpm did it peak at?
peak power was about 5200rpm according to the dyno charts above

hows your fuel filter?
Should be fine, I replaced it just before getting the new motor and it has about 8000ks on it now.

The idle is a little rougher than it has been in the past so I'll sus out the plugs, leads and coil packs.

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 1:51 pm 
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Hyena wrote:
SVO XR6 wrote:
whats the cam specs?

Not sure exactly, Mark would know

did you muck around with the ajst screw on the BBM switch?
I may have... :lol:
Actually Joe @ Cresent did it. Half a turn I believe.

Where, at what rpm did it peak at?
peak power was about 5200rpm according to the dyno charts above

hows your fuel filter?
Should be fine, I replaced it just before getting the new motor and it has about 8000ks on it now.

The idle is a little rougher than it has been in the past so I'll sus out the plugs, leads and coil packs.


DO NOT CHANGE THE SCREW ON THE BBM!!!

apart form that i cant see any problem, maby the actual switch itself?

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 3:55 pm 
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Ride: BA XR6 Turbo

Power: 175 rwkw

Location: The Shire, Sydney
NSW, Australia

Why not touch the screw ?
I thought it only changed where the runners switched in ?
If it kicked in more abruptly, adjusting it on the dyno you could get the optimum out of it couldn't you ?
As can be seen from my first chart, if you adjusted it to switch hard at 98ks you'd get a more optimal curve...

What do you mean by the actual switch itself ? The spring assembly ?

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 4:13 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: 220kw 1600 Datto

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like the screw which changes the amout that it opens, kinda lke the Throttle body screw

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 4:42 pm 
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for those who havent seen inside a BBM, check my gallery.

 

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