My door locks keep recycling for several seconds and return to unlocked state .Help please

Try replacing the battery in the Smartlock remote and reprogramming it. My Ex's old EF used to do the same and that solved the problem until the remote battery started to go flat again.

Reprogramming Smartlock Remotes
1. The ignition switch should be in the Off position, with all the doors shut and Unlocked.
2. Turn the ignition key to the ACCESSORY position and within 5 seconds, operates the rear demister switch exactly three times in quick succession. (IE. Press the switch so the Demister light turns on, then off, then back on again.)
3. After the 5 seconds is up, the door locks will change state, to indicate that the BEM has entered keypad learn mode.
NOTE : All existing keypads at this point, have been erased from memory !
4. Press either buttons on the keypad that is to be trained. The door locks will change state twice, to indicate that the keypad has been added to the BEM memory.
5. Follow step 4. for each keypad that is to be added to the BEM memory. A maximum of 4 keypads can be added to the BEM memory.NOTE : You must teach all remote keypads for the Smartlock module, before proceeding.
6. When you have taught all the remote keypads, turn the ignition to the Off position to leave the learn mode. The door locks will change state to indicate a return to normal mode.
7. Check the function of both buttons on each keypad, to ensure that the keypad has been trained.

Sounds like the drivers side actuator is stuffed or sticking.

That's a common problem with EFs and maybe other E-series. One of door lock actuators/motors (not necessarily the driver's door) is out of adjustment or range. Don't know there is much adjustment possible, or whether you just have to replace it. To find out which door it is, disconnect them one at a time and try locking the doors each time. My EF wagon was doing it - turned out it was the tailgate lock hitting the end of its travel. Couldn't get it to work, so just removed the actuator; now I just use the key - like old school . Will install a new actuator next time I have a reason to take the tailgate apart.

+1 on it being an actuator. Right now my EF is running with the driver door actuator disconnected because it was doing EXACTLY what the OP describes (was occasionally also "bip-bip-bip" of the horn too). Means locking an unlocking other three doors via the dash switch or passenger front door key and locking / unlocking driver door manually.

As has been said, it can be any of them tho so disconnect plug for each in turn to isolate the problem.

New actuators on ebay for something like $88 - but of course there should be cheaper s/hand around.