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EA Falcon 4lt Twin TurboCharged C10/9 inch diff project 

 

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 Post subject: EA Falcon 4lt Twin TurboCharged C10/9 inch diff project
Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 8:38 pm 
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Hi guys

I know im not doing anything new as far as turboing a EA falcon but its my little project car that is keeping me busy

Just recieved my AU-2 short motor today and taken some pictures of the bottom end will post them . Interesting how ford reinforced the bottom end.

Will post more pictures as i need a special harmonic balancer pully cause the balancer has no threaded holes to mount a pull so will make one at work tommorrow


brb downlaod and minamizing pics

cya



UPDATE 12/10/2005

just using afew things i have laying around the place to finish the project and experiemneting with the EA down the quarter mile track

early stages yet trying to position the two turbos in the engine bay so there is enough clearnace every where , using case steel exhaust manifolds which are modified units and will be able to position back the heat shield that ford fitted originally, next few days i will finish the mount of the turbos keep u posted

cheers

 

 

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Last edited by FPV_GTp on Wed Oct 12, 2005 6:52 pm, edited 6 times in total.

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Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 9:28 pm 
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why are you even stuffing around with the harmonic balencer for? if your going to use EA-ED style ancillaries, just get the harmonic blancer to match.

 

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Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 9:51 pm 
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JOSE wrote:
why are you even stuffing around with the harmonic balencer for? if your going to use EA-ED style ancillaries, just get the harmonic blancer to match.



LOL

why not ???

early stages yet :lol: :wink: :wink:

crank trigger is more accurate form of ignition timing and crankshaft referrance

and lets face it have you ever tried to raplace a distributor or for that matter change cap rotor and leads on a any falcon multipiont fuel injection system ITS not a easy task for a simple job :wink:


keep you posted

cya

 

 

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 Post subject: nice main cap girdle
Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 10:05 pm 
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hi


this is the first time i have looked inside a AU_2 bottom end interesting how ford made some substanial changes incorprating the sump into the main caps for more stiffness and prevent cap walk plus a main stud girdle also

and if anyone else have any other pic please post them or any information


cya

 

 

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 Post subject: harmonic balancer differances
Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2005 1:48 pm 
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JOSE wrote:
why are you even stuffing around with the harmonic balencer for? if your going to use EA-ED style ancillaries, just get the harmonic blancer to match.


Hi

like i said before its a better way to go my opnion :wink:

here are some pictures of the balancers and you can clearly see the differances

cya

 

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 16, 2005 11:02 am 
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I would try and put some form of sealer under the cap bolts on the sump. Its common for them to weep oil.
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 Post subject: sealant
Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2005 12:27 am 
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Bert wrote:
I would try and put some form of sealer under the cap bolts on the sump. Its common for them to weep oil.


hi

there are some very good thread sealants out on the market


cya

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2005 10:37 am 
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FPV_GTp wrote:
crank trigger is more accurate form of ignition timing and crankshaft referrance


Yes, VN 3.8 V6's use crank trigger and look how smooth and accurate they are :p


j/k!
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Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2005 2:13 pm 
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JOSE wrote:
why are you even stuffing around with the harmonic balencer for? if your going to use EA-ED style ancillaries, just get the harmonic blancer to match.


I was going to say why do you intend on using a 9inch diff for? Have you seen what the barg warner diff can take when its minispooled? I'm assuming you want a minispool in your 9 inch anyway. There are countless VL turbo's with 500+rwKw running spooled borg warners and not one has broken yet. If your chasing 1/4 times then leave the 9 inch out. Its too much weight for not that much of a strength increase anyway, and let alone the money to get one fabbed up or modified to fit under there.
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 Post subject: crank trigger
Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2005 2:47 pm 
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Bozz wrote:
FPV_GTp wrote:
crank trigger is more accurate form of ignition timing and crankshaft referrance


Yes, VN 3.8 V6's use crank trigger and look how smooth and accurate they are :p


j/k!


Hi

great piont Bozz , the less moving parts the better the resolution ie timing chan gears and guides wear and that causes al sorts of problems and distributor gear to axaurlry shaft connection the distributor shaft to housing bush wear and tear adds to in-accurate ignition timing .

cya

 

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 Post subject: full spool
Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2005 2:56 pm 
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xcabbi wrote:
JOSE wrote:
why are you even stuffing around with the harmonic balencer for? if your going to use EA-ED style ancillaries, just get the harmonic blancer to match.


I was going to say why do you intend on using a 9inch diff for? Have you seen what the barg warner diff can take when its minispooled? I'm assuming you want a minispool in your 9 inch anyway. There are countless VL turbo's with 500+rwKw running spooled borg warners and not one has broken yet. If your chasing 1/4 times then leave the 9 inch out. Its too much weight for not that much of a strength increase anyway, and let alone the money to get one fabbed up or modified to fit under there.


hi

yes you have some valid pionts there about the B/W and the 9 in diffs
but i'm planning on really screwing some serious horse power out of the I6 AU 4lt motor. I'm doing all the fabricating myself and 9 inch differential is a specialty of my have all the tools and jigs already made so cost me nothing :wink:
the nine inch differential is more versatile in parts selection and specially when it comes to gear ratios selection, and no mini spool for me i am using a chromolly light weight profiled full spool and alloy pinion support ,steel caps and once the vehicle is up and running will also replace the axles with summer brothers axles ( $ :lol: ) now no more swaering in here kj;rhn;bvbg leurvb;h VL commadore LOL :wink: :lol: :P

will post a few pics of the nine inch this week stay posted


cya

 

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 Post subject: Re: crank trigger
Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2005 6:14 pm 
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FPV_GTp wrote:
Bozz wrote:
FPV_GTp wrote:
crank trigger is more accurate form of ignition timing and crankshaft referrance


Yes, VN 3.8 V6's use crank trigger and look how smooth and accurate they are :p


j/k!


Hi

great piont Bozz , the less moving parts the better the resolution ie timing chan gears and guides wear and that causes al sorts of problems and distributor gear to axaurlry shaft connection the distributor shaft to housing bush wear and tear adds to in-accurate ignition timing .

cya


Actually my post was tongue in cheek - the VN motor is about the worst EFI motor for NVH that has been in an australian made production car.

But I think you have the good points - it makes complete sense that it will be more accurate from a harmonic balancer pickup rather than a dizzy or CAS due to wear.

A motor family i'm very familiar with is Nissan's RB series and the twincam ones all use camshaft angle sensors on the non tensioner side to reduce the effect of belt stretch but I would imagine it would still move.

Now i'm curious to the length difference of a stretched belt/chain to the angle of error produced. I'd imagine if its under one degree then it woudln't ever be a concern on a street car as you have to tune some safety margin in due to large amounts of variables such as temperature, fuels, humidity etc.

Anyone know any hard numbers?
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 Post subject: Re: crank trigger
Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2005 6:26 pm 
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Bozz wrote:
FPV_GTp wrote:
Bozz wrote:
FPV_GTp wrote:
crank trigger is more accurate form of ignition timing and crankshaft referrance


Yes, VN 3.8 V6's use crank trigger and look how smooth and accurate they are :p


j/k!


Hi

great piont Bozz , the less moving parts the better the resolution ie timing chan gears and guides wear and that causes al sorts of problems and distributor gear to axaurlry shaft connection the distributor shaft to housing bush wear and tear adds to in-accurate ignition timing .

cya


Actually my post was tongue in cheek - the VN motor is about the worst EFI motor for NVH that has been in an australian made production car.

But I think you have the good points - it makes complete sense that it will be more accurate from a harmonic balancer pickup rather than a dizzy or CAS due to wear.

A motor family i'm very familiar with is Nissan's RB series and the twincam ones all use camshaft angle sensors on the non tensioner side to reduce the effect of belt stretch but I would imagine it would still move.

Now i'm curious to the length difference of a stretched belt/chain to the angle of error produced. I'd imagine if its under one degree then it woudln't ever be a concern on a street car as you have to tune some safety margin in due to large amounts of variables such as temperature, fuels, humidity etc.

Anyone know any hard numbers?


Hi

lol :wink: nothing wrong with a bit of tongue and cheek the best medacine is laughter and we all need to have a bit of humour in our livesLOL

yes i will be having fun on the streets and my main reason for the buildup is to have fun at the race track quarter mile racing :wink:kick some of those cuuummadores asses :wink: im planning on running a sequential injection system on mine so ignition timing and crankshaft position is a vital piece of information requied and the rest that you mention is also very inportant to;):P keep you posted when the real fun starts on the engine dyno :wink:

cya

 

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Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2005 12:55 am 
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Hey,

Sounds like an interesting project, but a C10 and a 9" would require an engi's cert wouldn't it? Then again, if your doing the diff yourself, you would then have the $$ to fork out for the engi cert. :D

I'm putting a BW diff into my turbo'd torana, cheaper and lighter than the 9", and will still hold the power i'm chasing. Altho, i did consider a 9", as my mums rusting Xd wagon has a disc brake 9" in it, in GWO. Only needs a chop to fit the torry... lol..

Cheers

ToranaGuy

 

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 Post subject: LOL i'm after strength
Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2005 1:37 am 
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ToranaGuy wrote:
Hey,

Sounds like an interesting project, but a C10 and a 9" would require an engi's cert wouldn't it? Then again, if your doing the diff yourself, you would then have the $$ to fork out for the engi cert. :D

I'm putting a BW diff into my turbo'd torana, cheaper and lighter than the 9", and will still hold the power i'm chasing. Altho, i did consider a 9", as my mums rusting Xd wagon has a disc brake 9" in it, in GWO. Only needs a chop to fit the torry... lol..

Cheers

ToranaGuy



Hi toranaGuy


LOL i'm after strength and yes need a engineers certificate for the mods but this is going to be a test ( R & D ) car cause im going to be chasing some serious horsepower with the 2nd engine just order some turbo custome machined pistons and steel rods but we see what happens.

cya

 

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