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EB 6 Auto, Flywheel bolts trouble. HELP! 

 

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 Post subject: EB 6 Auto, Flywheel bolts trouble. HELP!
Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 12:07 am 
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EB, series one, 3.9l, 4 speed auto, mpfi

After being through a heap of stuff on my car, i was ready to put it back together. So i put the flywheel back on with the original bolts. While tensioning, i managed to snap one. I thought, oh well, should have replaced them anyway. So this week i got new bolts, and went to put them in. I oiled the threads, wound them in by hand, then took them hole by ratchet. I then got a tension wrench and started going up. Started at around 50nm, then around 60, 68, 75. However, now ive reached 75, they feel wrong. The bolts just seem to keep doing up and up, not getting harder. I've only gone about half a turn past 60 or there abouts, but it just doesnt feel like i thought it would. Any suggestions? I dont want to snap these bolts! Also, have tried two different torque wrenches, and even tested them on each other.

For those who have ever removed a flywheel, what was it like to tighten? I expected it to get progressively tighter, and reasonably quickly?

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 12:14 am 
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Dunno fella. After a short discussion me and Toddy feel that because they are a fine thread that they take a long time to pull up so maybe ya just gotta give em a bit more.
But in saying that I know what ya mean... sometimes they just don't feel right.....
Have a Bundy and think......... and then have another Bundy! :twisted:

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 12:15 am 
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Take them out and check the threads

I wouldnt oil the threads either. Locktite it.

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 12:41 am 
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stockstandard wrote:
Take them out and check the threads

I wouldnt oil the threads either. Locktite it.


WHS ^^^ or use some anti sieze!

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 1:02 am 
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being flywheel bolts loctite is prolly the way to go

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 1:05 am 
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The new bolts come with fords own loctite. Doesnt explain why they wont come tight but!

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 1:07 am 
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have you checked the threads? What you describe is usually a stripped thread (either in the crank or the bolt itself).

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 1:13 am 
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All 6 bolts are brand new, they are too tight to be stripped, and all 6 bolts are similar

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 10:25 am 
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G'day

Has your torque wrench clicked off at the specified torque? If not keep going you'll get there.

I thought the same thing when i changed my clutch, but after torqueing them up to the required torque it was fine.

Cheers

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 11:51 am 
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hi,never use oil or anti seeze on fly wheel bolts,or bolts under severe vibration,they come loose!!*******can cut gearbox-floor [dragracers have to have deflector plate over bell housing if driver sits next to gearbox] also cast iron flywheels can explode over 6500 rpm -use steel above.crankshaft threads may be streched,being unf threads,pull the bolts out and check with torch,if the thread looks the same as bolts ok,if not you have 2 options,remove crank and redill and tap holes-have to match flywheel and crankshaft together-the next size bigger, or get new crank. always use loctite thread locker ford and holden use on assembly lines,most cars do. there are different grades for strength,eg.red for brakes,blue for motors or similar,as you work on the car you can see the colours. cheers :roll: :roll: :roll:

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 1:30 pm 
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Happy is a legend! I only have the ea book as my parents used to own an ea. the ea only has three bolts on the torqueplate but. So i figure they must be bigger, and hence there only being three, done up tighter. Assuming the eb and ef/el are the same, then they only have to be done up to 70-80nm. No wonder i snapped them a few nm short of 110!

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 1:56 pm 
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Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 2:22 pm 
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Andrew J wrote:
Happy is a legend! I only have the ea book as my parents used to own an ea. the ea only has three bolts on the torqueplate but. So i figure they must be bigger, and hence there only being three, done up tighter. Assuming the eb and ef/el are the same, then they only have to be done up to 70-80nm. No wonder i snapped them a few nm short of 110!

Flywheel/driveplate to crankshaft:
EA/EB1: 110Nm (grade11.9), 85Nm (grade 10.9)
EBII/ED: As above, also pre may93 85Nm, post may 93 70-80Nm
EF/EL: as per may 93 onwards.

You must be talking about the pressure plate bolts as there are x6 bolts Flywheel/driveplate to crankshaft on all I6's.

The engine guys may be able to explain the differences in torque recommendations, and what the grade xx.x means.

 

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Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 7:22 pm 
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Yeah, have since found out hap[py was wrong... again... well, for my situation anyway, Looks like its a suck it and see case for me. Yarrrr! All this for an oil leak.

 

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Posted: Sun Jun 11, 2006 2:08 pm 
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Andrew J wrote:
Yeah, have since found out hap[py was wrong... again... well, for my situation anyway, Looks like its a suck it and see case for me. Yarrrr! All this for an oil leak.
try to buy a manual or reference library or engine reconditioner for specs, all torque specs and info available,i buy books on ebay or photo copy reference library, as all cars are different. :roll: :roll: :roll:

 

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