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| cjh |
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Which bolt are you having trouble with????
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| cjh |
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SpeedyED wrote: Well, I after about 5 hr's I finally managed to release the tension on the timing chain, but I ended up making this to do it: Attachment: The attachment Timing Chain Tension Release Tool 001.jpg is no longer available Attachment: The attachment Timing Chain Tension Release Tool 002.jpg is no longer available Attachment: The attachment Timing Chain Tension Release Tool 003.jpg is no longer available With abit of force from this tool I managed to release the tension, but there was enough tension on it that not even the "allen key" trick would have been able to release, because it was too tight to be done with an Allen Key... The thing is, you have to push with a tube on the outside of the allen key. This is my setup for doing Ford I6 timing chain tensioners.
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| SpeedyED |
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That tool on the right is purchased from T&E Tools or similer yeah?
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| SpeedyED |
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CJH, YOUR MY HERO!!!!!
 ,I hit the darned head bolt about 10 times, forced a 12 point sidchrome socket on, used the biggest breaker bar I had and then with a mundane finality it came out!!!!! It was sure the headgasket, the metal parts of it are f**k at cylinders 1, 5 and 6. Attachment: Fucked Headgasket 001.jpg [ 123.9 KiB | Viewed 245 times ] Attachment: Fucked Headgasket 003.jpg [ 64.98 KiB | Viewed 210 times ] Attachment: Fucked Headgasket 002.jpg [ 98.57 KiB | Viewed 228 times ]
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| SpeedyED |
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Just had a thought,
In the Boostedfalcon Guide, it doesn't suggest to clean out the oil at the front of the engine, inside the timing section to be precise, I think when they did it it was just oily in there... but in mine it's got water mixed muddy puke.... how should I approach this?????
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| snap0964 |
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The head's been off before by the looks of it - that's a monotorque gasket if I'm not mistaken.
My local engine place stopped using them a few years ago as they were experiencing a fair few failures with them.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| Steady ED |
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snap0964 wrote: The head's been off before by the looks of it - that's a monotorque gasket if I'm not mistaken. Yep, it is 
_________________ ED XR8 Sprint - S-Trim, V500, 249rwkw |
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| SpeedyED |
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Steady ED wrote: snap0964 wrote: The head's been off before by the looks of it - that's a monotorque gasket if I'm not mistaken. Yep, it is I'll have to boot you next time I see you Steady .I think I'll invest on making sure the head's in good nick and get it straightened and crack tested, although I really doubt the head is cracked, as it's obvious that the Head Gasket has failed, but you never know.
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| cjh |
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SpeedyED wrote: That tool on the right is purchased from T&E Tools or similer yeah? That particular one is a "ABW" one. Looks like the coolant hasn't been change regularly, or to weak a solution mix of coolant to water.
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| SpeedyED |
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At first I'm assuming that the coolant was leaking out the exhaust, because I couldn't see any sign of any leaking coolant, and at first it wasn't mixing with the oil, and at the time the oil was in schmik condition for 10,000km's of wear.
Then it started getting worse and worse, next making the idle rough and bad, but I noticed the PCV Valve was at the time no longer working, so I just assumed it was that, and then it was getting painted over the course of 2 weeks, so I didn't worry about the rough idle for the time being, but all the time the water leak was getting more and more promenant, as it was leaving the Coolant Bottle faster than ever. But when I got the car back, The bloke that painted it said it was running fairly s**t, but I just said it was the PCV Valve, as I noticed that had stopped working and I wasn't overly fussed, so I picked up the car, and started driving it home. No less than 2km, the car was running very very rough, and I panicked abit because the Oil light was on, and the coolant temp had shot right up. Lucky I had 3 milk crates of water bottles, so I topped it up with all of them, switched the thermo fan overide on, and procceded to drive but with alot of caution, because it was now burning oil. On the trip home I did end up having to ring mum up and ask her to fill up some more milk bottles and escort me home, because it had drained the water again, after 13km of driving. Once I got it home, I parked it in the garage as mum suggested, to see if I could pin point any water leaks, and sure enough there was, as it was pouring litrally out of the Cat Converter, fearing the worst from there, I checked the oil, and sure enough it was muddy, BUT muddy because of the amount of water I put in to get me home. Which brings me to the question I've already asked, what should I be doing about the muddy oil thats in the timing case? just clean it as much as possible and leave it at that? or should I be pulling the timing case off just to get all the muddy contents off????? I think that answers your question CJH?
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| cjh |
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Sorry, what I meant was by lookin at the gasket, the rusty appearance of it where the water jacket holes are.
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| SpeedyED |
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cjh wrote: Sorry, what I meant was by lookin at the gasket, the rusty appearance of it where the water jacket holes are. aaaaah, , Sorry about the garble post above then
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| SpeedyED |
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Well, I've given the Head to North Geelong Engine Reconditioners and they are a great bunch of guy's there.
They Hardness tested it on the spot, which it passed, they pressure tested it, which it passed too. However the Head has a chip like crack in it, behind the No. 6 Cylinder, between the Exhaust Port and a Water Gallery, which would certainly explain the pouring water out the back of the Cat Converter... We also noticed that all Intake and Exhaust Valve seats where shot, the Exhaust Seats wern't very flash at all, all chipped and what not, in particular the No. 1 Cylinder Intake Valve was pushed further into the Cylinder Head than what it should be. They also asked if the car was ever on Gas, I said it hadn't, but I'm now thinking twice about that one STEADY .The Valve seats will be replaced with CHE Precision Valve Seats, these seats I'm told are use specifically in Nascar and other high reving performace classes such as Sprint Car's over in the states. I googled the CHE Company and came up with this: http://cheprecision.com/html/seats.html looking and that page and also if you click the "more" link, their CA-18 Valve seat appears to be the one I'll be having installed into the head, and they seem to use a specific Valve Seat for their Exhaust Port. All up, this is costing me $530, , but at the end of the day, I think it's money well spent because these guys have a reputation for good workmanship (a old work colleague of dad's son that race's in the Commodore Cup use's these guy's to reco his son's race engines), and they go in-depth of what they are doing, I soo reckon that his a better guy, and most people will more than likely agree, Ben Mock...
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| cjh |
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When you say "chipped"....do you mean " Pitted"????
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| SpeedyED |
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Well, what I mean is, all the Exhaust Ports where like a rusty looking colour, not like the colour from any of the water gallery's, but like a darkish, rusty like colour. When I say chipped, the exhaust ports looked like they had all these really tiny chips in them, hard to tell though, what I might do is I'll get the guy's to keep the no. intake Valve seat, along with one of the Exhaust Seat's, and take a piccy of them.
The intake valve condition themselves look ok for looks, but the number 1 intake had been pressed by the pounding of the valve itself further into the cylinder head, and the guy's said, and dad said it too, once it starts doing that, it's really best to replace all of them, and that way you know it's done, and you will never have any problems with them for a long time, and not only that these new ones are LPG Friendly. Coming to think about that, they also asked if I had changed the Air Filter in it, the car WAS running an unboxed pod Filter from memory, when I first looked at the car, however upon the car changing owner ship to me, for this posts sake, "they" took the pod filter out, and installed one of those stocky boxes with a stocky panel filter, so it would get me through the RWC. However, the filter itself was abit old, I did blow it out at first, but I've been neglecting changing it as I would like to get myself a K&N HiFlow Panel Filter along with an XH Snorkel to keep the car legal.
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