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| cjh |
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Over the years I have noticed a lot of young fellas have fitted pod filters to all sorts of cars, and have neglected to oil the filters, or to even mount them properly, and have seen them with holes worn in them from various protrusions.
I think what they may have been asking is about it being " Dusted". As dust wears the valves & seats very quickly. Seen that a lot on dirt bikes, to the point that you could use the inlet valve to cut pizza.
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| SpeedyED |
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s**t!!!!!
Well, after hearing that, I might go into Burson's on Monday to get a temporary brand new Ryco Filter, while I save up for a K&N Hi Flow Panel Filter, along with an XH Snorkel. I was talking to one of the Moderator's on Boosted, who shall remain unnamed, for the puky s**t in the timing chain, he said to clean it as best as you can, and go to your local Safeway's and get some of their homebrand oil, along with another Ryco Oil Filter, and use that for about 2-300km's, so as to run the components in, and clear most of that mucky crap thats probably at the bottom of the sump and the timing case, then put a oil flush in, and run the car for a few minutes, then proceed to change the oil again, along with the filter, and put your good 15w14 oil in.
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| cjh |
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How many K's has this car got on it????
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| SpeedyED |
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176***
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| cjh |
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I'd try some 15W60 Penrite HPR15 ( its semi-synthetic). Thats what I use in my ED. No rattles. I also use it my Honda CBR1100XX.
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| SpeedyED |
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I was actually going to try Castrol Edge 15W40, Dad has got plenty of Castrol Magnetec 10W40.
Would the Castrol Edge be suitable though???
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| Steady ED |
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SpeedyED wrote: They also asked if the car was ever on Gas, I said it hadn't, but I'm now thinking twice about that one STEADY  .The heads not the original one, that head came off my 330,000km old motor, which was on gas. Although from memory I found some clips for a gas line on the chassis rail of that thing, so it probably was on gas.
_________________ ED XR8 Sprint - S-Trim, V500, 249rwkw |
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| SpeedyED |
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aaaaaaah, that will explain the nicely stomped on No. 1 intake seat
Thanks for letting me know that Steady 
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| SpeedyED |
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Right, I got the head back last night, and it looks schmik
.I did as the boosted guide told me to, and placed some sealant on the underneath and ontop of the timing gasket overlapping the new Cylinder Head Gasket, then I got my new headbolts, sealed them with loctite 243 sealant, torqued them as said with the instructions that came with the new Headbolts. The AU Gasket is definantly different, it is made of 3 layers of what appears to be very thin black metal, and it seems to cover up a small section of the oil inlets, nevertheless I'm fairly confident that the boy's at ford gave me the correct gasket, it certainly looks alot thinner compared to the old gasket. Today I will proceed to put as much of the car back together as possible, I will be running the engine in for 2-300km with Castrol Magnetec 10W40, and I will also be using a very tempormental Water for coolant to make sure there isn't any leaks, I'd hate to waist 45 bucks of coolant simply because I didn't check for any leaks, then I'll just drain the lot out of the bottom rad hose, re-connect it, fill what I can with coolant, turn the Heater right up to avoid any water pockets, and go from there.
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| phongus |
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SpeedyED wrote: Right, I got the head back last night, and it looks schmik .I did as the boosted guide told me to, and placed some sealant on the underneath and ontop of the timing gasket overlapping the new Cylinder Head Gasket, then I got my new headbolts, sealed them with loctite 243 sealant, torqued them as said with the instructions that came with the new Headbolts. The AU Gasket is definantly different, it is made of 3 layers of what appears to be very thin black metal, and it seems to cover up a small section of the oil inlets, nevertheless I'm fairly confident that the boy's at ford gave me the correct gasket, it certainly looks alot thinner compared to the old gasket. Today I will proceed to put as much of the car back together as possible, I will be running the engine in for 2-300km with Castrol Magnetec 10W40, and I will also be using a very tempormental Water for coolant to make sure there isn't any leaks, I'd hate to waist 45 bucks of coolant simply because I didn't check for any leaks, then I'll just drain the lot out of the bottom rad hose, re-connect it, fill what I can with coolant, turn the Heater right up to avoid any water pockets, and go from there. Flush the system with clean water after you remove the bottom radiator hose. That way any left over water which may have dirt in it is also flushed out, then reconnect and put coolant in. I have to do my coolant soon...found a leak on the back of the water pump...stupid O-Ring phong =P~
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| SpeedyED |
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umm phong, How do I flush the system?
 , only if it's that tool I'm thinking of then I'm rooted as I don't have one of them.....
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| phongus |
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SpeedyED wrote: umm phong, How do I flush the system? , only if it's that tool I'm thinking of then I'm rooted as I don't have one of them........I guess stick a garden hose in one end and hope water flows out the other end .What I did was I pulled the radiator out and stuck a hose in one end and pushed dirt out the other, then stuck the hose in the upper rad hose with the thermostat out (was replacing it) and watched water come out the bottom rad hose...no one told me how to do it, so I just did it that way and hope it is correct ...I still don't know if it's the right way, so someone will have to verify.phong =P~
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| SpeedyED |
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Well I'm in abit of s**t now.... I've just realised the I have broken the timing chain tensioner.....
Is it easy to replace???? please tell me I don't have to take the whole timing cover off.... just for a stupid dowel thingo, I know it will rattle annoyingly if I don't tension the chain but I cbf'ed with the annoying noise..... I did a quick advanced search on Google and nothing came up. According to my workshop Manual all I seem to have to do now is use tool E9388-A... and use the same tool to install it, is this correct????? Or do I have to do something more advanced to it?????
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| phongus |
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Which part of the tensioner did you break?
please point out in the below image Assuming it's part of the tensioner.  I may have spare tensioner parts. If you want you can take it as an exchange thing...get your car running, get another part of the tensioner I gave you and give me that one...as long as it is in usable condition obviously phong =P~
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| SpeedyED |
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It's the part that locks and releases the tesnsion to the timing chain... that bit you rotate, thinking about it now I'm not sure that it's snapped now or not, Although I do remember using a small bit of tension to break it free, so that bit could be snapped, which but I dunno, I just don't want to have to pull everything apart again, it's taking me too long as it is
 .So I don't think it's pictured in what you have.
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