Hi All,

Got a bit of a problem with my EF Fairmont. Its been converted to Manual using a manual ECU & runs a mild wade cam.

For the past couple of weeks it has been idling really rough but not all the time. For instance if im driving along then go to pull up at an intersection, put foot on the clutch blah blah. Once my foot is on the clutch the revs drop right down like its going to stall, power steering gets heavy. Once it has done this rev drop a couple of times it settles down and idles like normal for a while. Will drop the revs right down now and again when sitting for ages. The last few days it has stalled on me on a number of occasions and is starting to get a bit dangerous...(5 times it stalled tonight and iv had a guts full!!!!!)

I have pulled the isc off and cleaned it, when its disconnected it idles rough as guts all the time so it is working (maybe not all the time?) Have replaced the leads as i thought it could be spark, the plugs arnt very old. Though i cant see how its spark related as it runs perfectly off idle, revs right out not missing or anything. At first i thought it might be a bad batch of fuel as it started a day after i switched to Shell V-Power, and continued as i kept using it, how ever i switched back to BP ultimate and it kept doing it. I also figure if it was bad fuel it would run rough all through the rev range?

So my question is does anyone know what it could be?
Vacuum Leak?
ISC Failing intermittently? (I have a mate who will let me borrow his ISC tomorrow so i can see if mine is the problem).

Thanks
Craig

I have an EF xr6 and it does the same thing. Doesnt stall but hunts for idle when you pull up at the lights. Ive replaced the ISC and it done nothing so prob dont waste your money. I have a mild wade cam, pacies exhaust and all that and have been told that the E series computers hunt around quite a bit and the only way to improve them is to chip them. A J3 chip from T.I performance will do the trick more than likely. Unfortunatey these cars dont like mods without work to the comp as mine idled pretty good when i 1st got it B4 any mods were done. How long ago did you put the computer into it cause it seems the comps take a while to learn. Maybe to solve the prob temporarily bump up the idle screw. Hope that helps.

Its been manual for over 2 years and its had the cam just as long. It always used to hunt a tiny bit but never this bad. It drops the revs so low coming into corners i lose power steering......

Well i took the intake off and checked for vacume leaks, checked my plugs, cleaned tb and swapped my isc out for a known working one. Nothing fixed it.

I thought i might try disconnect the battery for a bit see if it changes... and.... it isnt idling rough or stalling. Idle was a touch low so bumped it up a little bit and ill see how it goes over the next few days.

sweet as post us to see how it goes

Its starting to get a bit rough again now, but its no where near as bad as before. Hunts a couple times but not real low.

Could it be the ECU?

Like i said in the post B4 the way to make it idle better aside from an underlying issue is to chip it, ECU will more than likely be fine. But if this has just started happening maybe check your coolant temp sensor could b faulty, Remove isc altogether and blank off the the hole with a plate. Ive just started on this forum bout 6 months ago and have only owned an E-series ford for about 7 months so im still learning my self. Maybe leave the battery disconnected overnight to ensure it discharges properly and hit the brake pedal a couple of times to help dischage any power in the system.

Hey guys,

I have an EF XR6 maunal aswell (unsure whether its a factory manual or if it has been converted) and my car likes to play around with the revs aswell. When coming to change gears i put my foot on the clutch and instead of the revs dropping they hold where there are... :s

I've changed my isc to one from an auto el falcon and it helped slightly. I've also changed my fuel filter.. Any ideas on what that could be?

Thanks

Arteen

did you check the map sensor

How can i check the map sensor? Sorry for my ignorance...

To check to map sensor you have to disconnect the wiring connector off the sensor. All you can check is resistance through the switch. as you apply vacuum to the MAP sensor using a vacuum pump, the resistance will change. just compare the readings with the specs. if it isnt the same, the MAP sensor maybe faulty. I cant remember which two pins you have to check. Hope that helps.

Unplug the ISC and bump the idle up? Will idle like s**t when its cold, but should be ok otherwise.

put a new gasket in the isc with smaller holes..it fixed my rev hang issue with my big cam, but your best off getting a j3 chip, that will fix starting issues aswell.

just looking for opinions/ideas..my prob sounds the same as fairmont599..mine is also converted manual, regrind cam, xr6(i was told)manual ecu...
after months of tune issues with dual fuel idle problem; problem mostly with petrol: rough, erratic idle, throttle hanging after downshift; flat take off/low revs, and a bit of jerkiness at steady revs, the lpg finally gave up and started running worse than petrol; undrivable; no power, very rough idle...
took it to mechanic finally for a major service/tune up but couldn't fix all probs; but he did learn that the issues are NOT fuel related ie pumps or sensors etc; NOT ignition: new plugs, leads, dissie inspected and electronic parts replaced; throttle body and cable fine.... basically was traced to timing/tune and PROBABLY idle control valve...which is mechanically sound, bout probably electrically buggerd...lpg prob turned out to be faulty mixture controller (or whatever they are called..)in the line between the mixer and throttle body, managed by lpg computer..
point is: i.c. valve now unpluged; car runs great. not perfect, but cam regrind, extractors and exhaust make the car sound rough (in a good way!!); also, mechanic failed to notice map sensor unhooked after he backfired it, which made it much worse til i plugged it back in!!!
with a plug change and retune today, manually advanced timing and NO idle control valve (and a mechanical/spring screw lpg mix controller), the car is running as good as it's ever been........
my main qusetion is of course is: do i have to get a new i.c.valve??? is it essential? what can go wrong without it?? what if i clean it again, put it back on, leave it unplugged......? whats the worst that can happen?? how can i make so i don't need one at all??
i only ask cos i'm kinda broke, and the $175 for a new one (repco) could be better spent elsewhere..
yes i have cleaned the valve!! sorry for double post..

I'm stuffed if i know whats wrong with this car, its back to stalling again and its bloody embarrassing!!!!

Im starting to think its the ECU so gonna go to a mates and borrow the one from his manual ef xr6. If this works ill be so damn happy!!!