|
| Tyland |
|
||
|
I've had this happen to me and for some reason it managed to screw up the ECU. One night it got so bad that it began to stall itself as in it would run for a couple of seconds and then just stop/die.
We had some code on the dash light which was something to do with the air bag and the unit that needed to be replaced was completely missing. Fixed that up and replaced the ECU, leads, coil-pack, spark plugs and everything ran fine again and I haven't had a misfire or shudder since. |
||
| Top | |
||
| paul w |
|
|||
|
Ta for that.
'Some code on the dash light'....what do you mean?* Yeah....just ordered a new coil pack. Yes, yes, I should have done that at the beginning, and not got a second-hand one, let's move on....anyway, I'll put it in and get the code looked at. I received some flak for getting a mechanic to put the coils in, but someone told me it was a horror job without a hoist...so, how easy are they to put in? Will ramps do? *my library has an EF manual, so I'll going to get it tomorrow and have a look, but I've found the descriptions I've heard here about things are easier to understand.
_________________ EF GLi Wagon. Burgundy. Gas shocks. Rear sway bar. Nice stereo & speakers. Factory bull bar. Driving lights. Roof racks. Great car. 2nd owner. 147,000km. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| efxr6wagon |
|
||
|
If you have new ignition leads and have a multimeter available, you can check your coilpack without touching it. The pack has three coils, each firing two cylinders; the pairs are 1 and 6, 2 and 5, and 3 and 4. If you pull the leads off these pairs of plugs, you can test the coil they are both attached to, as they form a loop. The actual resistance (ohms) of each loop isn't too important, but it should be reasonably consistent across the three. I would guess that if they vary by more than 10-15%, your coilpack is on the way out. You can expect a loop with longer leads to have slightly higher resistance.
You can replace the coilpack with the car on the ground if you remove the airbox, but it's still a job and a half. It would probably be a little easier with the car on stands/ramps, but the crossmember, engine mount, and air con compressor will likely still be in the way. There is no getting around the fact that the coilpack location was thought up by some sadist.
_________________ 95 EF XR6 wagon, 17" FTRs, DBA rotors, KYB/Koni, AU bottom end, ported EF head, backcut valves, SS Inductions, Territory intake, 10.2 CR, Auckland 1258 cam, vernier gear, PH4480 headers, no cat, Tickford 2.5", 2800rpm stall, J3 chip |
||
| Top | |
||
| paul w |
|
|||
|
Many thanks.
When you say test...you mean putting the multimeter probes in the two spark plug terminals (in the leads)? And from the sounds of it, if I need to change the coils (might as well as I've paid for the things), I'll pay someone to do it.
_________________ EF GLi Wagon. Burgundy. Gas shocks. Rear sway bar. Nice stereo & speakers. Factory bull bar. Driving lights. Roof racks. Great car. 2nd owner. 147,000km. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| efxr6wagon |
|
||
|
Exactly. You test resistance from the spark plug end of one lead to the spark plug end of the other, so it's actually measuring the resistance of the coil plus both leads. This only works with new(ish) leads or leads you have tested already. Otherwise, you have no way of knowing whether it's one of the leads or the coil that's faulty, and you are no f@rt ahead.
I don't want to discourage you from doing the work yourself, as it can be very rewarding. But I find the coilpack to be the "least rewarding" thing to work on. Maybe there's some trick or shortcut I'm not aware of. But I only do it myself because I'm cheap and stubborn - I refuse to let the car beat me. 
_________________ 95 EF XR6 wagon, 17" FTRs, DBA rotors, KYB/Koni, AU bottom end, ported EF head, backcut valves, SS Inductions, Territory intake, 10.2 CR, Auckland 1258 cam, vernier gear, PH4480 headers, no cat, Tickford 2.5", 2800rpm stall, J3 chip |
||
| Top | |
||
| paul w |
|
|||
|
Cool. I'll check it this weekend.
So, the 'least rewarding' eh? Hear that sound? Yup, my EFTPOS card sliding out of my wallet! 
_________________ EF GLi Wagon. Burgundy. Gas shocks. Rear sway bar. Nice stereo & speakers. Factory bull bar. Driving lights. Roof racks. Great car. 2nd owner. 147,000km. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| zabatron |
|
||
|
Coil pack not that hard to replace on ef 6 cylinder...as stated above,remove air filter box for better access and get yourself some long socket extensions so you can remove mounting bolts by lowering socket extension bar down between intake manifold runners.As for your occasional misfire,best to get a code check done first to see if any codes are present,as problem may not be caused by coil pack,especially seeing as it is still there after changing to another coil pack.Gregorys manual shows how to build your own code reader for under $10 and how to use it.If misfire is random,also check fuel pressure regulator is not leaking due to split internal diaphragm,just disconnect vaccuum hose from regulator,and suck on it,if you can taste/smell petrol then it is split and needs replacing.Also check o rings on injectors are in servicable condition and not leaking.One other thing to check is that correct spark plugs are fitted as too cold a plug may also cause an occasional misfire.
|
||
| Top | |
||
| Greenmachine |
|
||
|
Paul W - have you tried disconnecting the cam phase sensor yet? - mine is still running fine and sweet with the cam phase sensor disconnected - ie. small plastic bag over the plug and it lashed out of the way with a cable tie.
I must quit being lazy and check the position of the phase sensor in case the whole issue causing intermittant misfiring / stuttering with it connected is from the position being just out of tolerance - ie. blade passing the sensor at the wrong time which is clashing with the timing at certain ignition advance or something. In any case, it's running fine with it disconnected.
_________________ Sold the Greenmachine - now driving 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. |
||
| Top | |
||
| paul w |
|
|||
|
I'll be removing it this week, and checking the codes.
Been very busy lately, and as the car still runs fine, it's been way down the list of Things To Do. Also fitted a new coil pack, but no improvement.
_________________ EF GLi Wagon. Burgundy. Gas shocks. Rear sway bar. Nice stereo & speakers. Factory bull bar. Driving lights. Roof racks. Great car. 2nd owner. 147,000km. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Greenmachine |
|
||
|
Do give it a go - just disconnecting the plug and lashing it out of the way to see if it kills the problem is easy enough to do - bagging the plug would be a good idea if you end up leaving it unplugged for any amount of time.
That's all I've done - disconnected the plug - ie. the rest of the shaft/hsg/sensor etc. is all still in place as normal. My phase sensor housing / shaft / blade unit seems to be set correctly so all I can think is that the sensor itself - which I fitted NEW early last year - is faulty - so my next step is to get another sensor and hook it all up again. Tho as I say, it seems to all be running fine without it.
_________________ Sold the Greenmachine - now driving 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. |
||
| Top | |
||
| paul w |
|
|||
|
Well, if that's all I have to do....I'll see if I have time today.
Cheers.
_________________ EF GLi Wagon. Burgundy. Gas shocks. Rear sway bar. Nice stereo & speakers. Factory bull bar. Driving lights. Roof racks. Great car. 2nd owner. 147,000km. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| paul w |
|
|||
|
I was going to remove the camp phase sensor, but as the codes were to be checked yesterday, waited for the result.
Codes checked...nothing. It seems all is well on that front. So, I figure removing the cam phase sensor plug would be a waste of time, if it's not registering a problem on the codes? I'll go back through the suggestions here and see what non-electrical thing can be done.
_________________ EF GLi Wagon. Burgundy. Gas shocks. Rear sway bar. Nice stereo & speakers. Factory bull bar. Driving lights. Roof racks. Great car. 2nd owner. 147,000km. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Greenmachine |
|
||
|
I hadn't pulled codes etc. so can't comment as far as that goes - but all I'll say is that it takes a couple of seconds and is absolutely harmless to pull that plug and eliminate CMP as being the issue. Cable tie the plug out of the way if ur in doubt whether it might swing about and hit the belt etc.
_________________ Sold the Greenmachine - now driving 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. |
||
| Top | |
||
| paul w |
|
|||
|
I actually tried today...thing would not come out....just pulls out? No little clips to watch for?
Unfortunately, it's at a distance that's no good for my reading glasses or my usual ones, so cannot see it properly. Fading eyesight is a ........!!!!!!
_________________ EF GLi Wagon. Burgundy. Gas shocks. Rear sway bar. Nice stereo & speakers. Factory bull bar. Driving lights. Roof racks. Great car. 2nd owner. 147,000km. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Greenmachine |
|
||
|
HAha - I hear ya! - just breaking in my first set of progressive focals myself...
 There is a clip on that plug - on top and you lift it at the CMP sensor end - but also the little bug&er has a triple ring rubber/silicon seal inside the plug that causes a fair amount of stiction - mine always comes off with that rubbery suctioning "POP" sound like a good plug lead.
_________________ Sold the Greenmachine - now driving 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. |
||
| Top | |
||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 50 guests |
